Anything and everything Haloz
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Anything and everything Haloz
Here is a DIY on the angel eyes
Link: http://www.tibathon.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=48#48
Author: Joshuwa
Difficulty: Moderate
Time: +/- 3 Hours
Materials Needed: Angel Eyes, 10mm wrench, screwdriver (flat-head and phillips), and clear plastic ties or string.
Angel Eyes can be purchased from KSPEC (www.kspec.com) or www.haloz.biz
Angel Eyes Install (2nd Gen)
1. Preparing the bumper: Open the hood, and you will notice small plastic pins that line the bumper. Using a flat-head screwdriver, carefully pop each one out. Trace the edges of the bumper to find them all. Additionaly, there will be 4-6 10mm bolts you will need to remove. The pic above indicates the locations of all the pins/screws/bolts that need to be removed at this time.
Once all pins/screws/bolts are removed, you can remove the metal stripping at the top of the bumper.
2. Removing the corner lights: Use a phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on top of the light. Carefully pull the light out of its position, and disconnect the attatched wire. Do this on both sides.
3. Removing the bumper: Once the corner lights are removed, you will find one more 10mm bolt on each side that needs to be removed. Take out each bolt, disconnect the wires to your parking lights, and carefully pull the bumper away.
4. Removing the headlights: There are 4 10mm bolts holding the headlights in place. Remove them all and carefully disconnect the attatched wire, then pull the lights out of position.
5. Preparing the headlights: Pre-heat the oven to 350* (no joke!). Once the oven is heated, place one light on a large cookie sheet and place it in the oven. Make sure that no metal from the oven is touching any part of the light. Leave the light in the oven for 5-6 minutes. BE CAREFUL! Your lights CAN melt if you leave them in too long!
6. Openning the headlights: Carefully remove the light from the oven. WARNING: IT WILL BE HOT! Now, using a flat-head screwdriver, slowly lift up each tab on the edge of the lense. Using the screwdriver, gently help the lense seperate from the headlight. Pull the lense away, and use scissors to cut the stringy adhesive.
7. Removing the bezel: Once the light is cool, use a small screwdriver to remove all 4 screws connecting the bezel to the lense.
8. Adding the Angel Eyes: Place one Angel Eyes ring in the bezel, with the LED located at the very bottom. Mark a spot on the outside of the bezel where the LED is, and then mark another spot directly above that on the outside of the top of the bezel. These marks will let you know where to drill.
Heat the tiny drill bit over the stove. It is imperative that you heat the bit before drilling so you do not crack the bezel. The bit should easily melt right through it. Carefully drill a small hole at the mark you made on the TOP of the bezel. The hole only needs to be big enough for a clear plastic tie (or string) to fit through.
Now heat the 1/4" bit the same way, and drill at the mark you made at the bottom of the bezel. This is the hole the wires will go through.
Do this process for both sides of the bezel (for each ring).
Once the holes have been made, place one Angel Eyes ring in its proper location, and slip the wires through the 1/4" hole. Using plastic ties or string, tie the top part of the Angel Eyes ring by fastening the string around it, then through the tiny hole above. Make sure the knot is strong, and the the ring is securely in place.
Using the 1/4" bit, heat once more, then drill a hole in the very center of the bottom part of the clear lense. This is where the wiring will come out.
Now is a good time to test everything to make sure it lights up. Touch the wires to your drill battery (positive to positive/negative to negative). Once everything lights up fine, screw the bezel back into the lense.
Push the lense back onto the headlight and make sure it seats up firmly. Place the assembly back into the oven for 5 more minutes. When you take the light out, make sure to press everything back together, and that all tabs are down and locked. Your light should now be sealed back together. You may use clear silicon to seal the outside of the light if you want to make sure its sealed.
Do this for each headlight.
9. Preparing the wires: There will be two sets of wires coming from each headlight. Two power wires (white) and two ground wires (grey). Connect both white wires together but twisting their ends together. Do the same with the grey wires. Make sure to connect only white to white, and grey to grey.
Now insert the two connected white wires into the connector on the blue wire with the white stripe, and pinch the connector closed to connect the wires. Insert the two connected grey wires into the solid blue wire, and do the same.
Do this for each headlight.
10. Putting the headlights in: Use the same method as in step 4 (in reverse) to put the headlights back in. Make sure your new wires go underneath and behind the metal bumper.
11. Finishing the wires:
Locate the wires to your parking lights that you previously disconnected. Use a knife to cut away about 2" of the plastic casing that hold the inner wires together. Now open up the blue C-Clamp of your power (white) wire and place it around the power wire of your parking lights. Firmly clamp it down. Do the same with your ground wire, connecting it to your parking light's ground wire. Remember: connect striped wire to striped wire, solid to solid. In some cases the wires may be different, but: Red= Power. Black=Ground.
12. Putting the bumper back on: Follow the same steps (1-3) that you used to remove the bumper to put it back on. Make sure that you connect your parking light wires to your parking lights on your bumper, and all other wires (headlights, corner lights). Be sure that all pins and screws are back firmly in place.
You are now finished! Flip on your parking lights, and your Angel Eyes will now be working! smile.gif
Huge huge thanks to mrpsxplyr for going through all the trouble to get me this write up!!!
Link: http://www.tibathon.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=48#48
Author: Joshuwa
Difficulty: Moderate
Time: +/- 3 Hours
Materials Needed: Angel Eyes, 10mm wrench, screwdriver (flat-head and phillips), and clear plastic ties or string.
Angel Eyes can be purchased from KSPEC (www.kspec.com) or www.haloz.biz
Angel Eyes Install (2nd Gen)
1. Preparing the bumper: Open the hood, and you will notice small plastic pins that line the bumper. Using a flat-head screwdriver, carefully pop each one out. Trace the edges of the bumper to find them all. Additionaly, there will be 4-6 10mm bolts you will need to remove. The pic above indicates the locations of all the pins/screws/bolts that need to be removed at this time.
Once all pins/screws/bolts are removed, you can remove the metal stripping at the top of the bumper.
2. Removing the corner lights: Use a phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on top of the light. Carefully pull the light out of its position, and disconnect the attatched wire. Do this on both sides.
3. Removing the bumper: Once the corner lights are removed, you will find one more 10mm bolt on each side that needs to be removed. Take out each bolt, disconnect the wires to your parking lights, and carefully pull the bumper away.
4. Removing the headlights: There are 4 10mm bolts holding the headlights in place. Remove them all and carefully disconnect the attatched wire, then pull the lights out of position.
5. Preparing the headlights: Pre-heat the oven to 350* (no joke!). Once the oven is heated, place one light on a large cookie sheet and place it in the oven. Make sure that no metal from the oven is touching any part of the light. Leave the light in the oven for 5-6 minutes. BE CAREFUL! Your lights CAN melt if you leave them in too long!
6. Openning the headlights: Carefully remove the light from the oven. WARNING: IT WILL BE HOT! Now, using a flat-head screwdriver, slowly lift up each tab on the edge of the lense. Using the screwdriver, gently help the lense seperate from the headlight. Pull the lense away, and use scissors to cut the stringy adhesive.
7. Removing the bezel: Once the light is cool, use a small screwdriver to remove all 4 screws connecting the bezel to the lense.
8. Adding the Angel Eyes: Place one Angel Eyes ring in the bezel, with the LED located at the very bottom. Mark a spot on the outside of the bezel where the LED is, and then mark another spot directly above that on the outside of the top of the bezel. These marks will let you know where to drill.
Heat the tiny drill bit over the stove. It is imperative that you heat the bit before drilling so you do not crack the bezel. The bit should easily melt right through it. Carefully drill a small hole at the mark you made on the TOP of the bezel. The hole only needs to be big enough for a clear plastic tie (or string) to fit through.
Now heat the 1/4" bit the same way, and drill at the mark you made at the bottom of the bezel. This is the hole the wires will go through.
Do this process for both sides of the bezel (for each ring).
Once the holes have been made, place one Angel Eyes ring in its proper location, and slip the wires through the 1/4" hole. Using plastic ties or string, tie the top part of the Angel Eyes ring by fastening the string around it, then through the tiny hole above. Make sure the knot is strong, and the the ring is securely in place.
Using the 1/4" bit, heat once more, then drill a hole in the very center of the bottom part of the clear lense. This is where the wiring will come out.
Now is a good time to test everything to make sure it lights up. Touch the wires to your drill battery (positive to positive/negative to negative). Once everything lights up fine, screw the bezel back into the lense.
Push the lense back onto the headlight and make sure it seats up firmly. Place the assembly back into the oven for 5 more minutes. When you take the light out, make sure to press everything back together, and that all tabs are down and locked. Your light should now be sealed back together. You may use clear silicon to seal the outside of the light if you want to make sure its sealed.
Do this for each headlight.
9. Preparing the wires: There will be two sets of wires coming from each headlight. Two power wires (white) and two ground wires (grey). Connect both white wires together but twisting their ends together. Do the same with the grey wires. Make sure to connect only white to white, and grey to grey.
Now insert the two connected white wires into the connector on the blue wire with the white stripe, and pinch the connector closed to connect the wires. Insert the two connected grey wires into the solid blue wire, and do the same.
Do this for each headlight.
10. Putting the headlights in: Use the same method as in step 4 (in reverse) to put the headlights back in. Make sure your new wires go underneath and behind the metal bumper.
11. Finishing the wires:
Locate the wires to your parking lights that you previously disconnected. Use a knife to cut away about 2" of the plastic casing that hold the inner wires together. Now open up the blue C-Clamp of your power (white) wire and place it around the power wire of your parking lights. Firmly clamp it down. Do the same with your ground wire, connecting it to your parking light's ground wire. Remember: connect striped wire to striped wire, solid to solid. In some cases the wires may be different, but: Red= Power. Black=Ground.
12. Putting the bumper back on: Follow the same steps (1-3) that you used to remove the bumper to put it back on. Make sure that you connect your parking light wires to your parking lights on your bumper, and all other wires (headlights, corner lights). Be sure that all pins and screws are back firmly in place.
You are now finished! Flip on your parking lights, and your Angel Eyes will now be working! smile.gif
Huge huge thanks to mrpsxplyr for going through all the trouble to get me this write up!!!
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1. Where to get the product and how much it costs
http://www.haloz.biz (Prices are on this website)
2. Tools needed and sizes.
.jpg)
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(01).jpg
3. Sizes of wires, # of connectors, etc.
Just get the wiring kit from http://www.haloz.biz - has everything you need.
4. Favorite beer used during installation
Any available.
5. Help needed or what needs to be done professionally for safety sake.
It will help if your comfortable taking apart your dash, and if you have an understanding of basic electrical components. If not, I've provided information to make it simple for anyone (or at least tried).
6. Pictures
Alrighty, if you're ready, here we go...
---------------------------------------------------
Okay you're excited that you made your purchase on the Interior Haloz kit from Blacktibs, but you're overwhelmed at how to actually install it. Well this is my attempt at simplifying the process. *NOTE* I used the wiring kit that Blacktibs sells with his kits, so if you plan on doing it some other way, this DIY may not work for you. So this is the approach I would recommend taking so that you don't get too frustrated.
.jpg)
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(02).jpg
1) First, let's look at the Wiring Kit, because there are so many wires and it looks like a big jumble of a mess. Take note of what I've labeled in the pictures. What you're looking at in this picture is the main part of the wiring.
.jpg)
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(03).jpg
2) Now in this picture you are looking at the wiring that runs to each of the haloz. The ends that have green and blue tape on them will be connected to the Main Wiring Harness, and then the ends that have Red and Black will be connected to the wires that run from the Haloz themselves.
.jpg)
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(04).jpg
3) Alright, here's the first actual piece of work that you need to do. Find one of the clear blue connectors like in the picture, that will fit over the post on the Inline Fuse. Once you have that, set that aside for a second. The wire at the bottom of the picture is the Power Wire. The end that has the white tape on it, needs to be stripped so that the wire is exposed and then crimp on the connector that we set aside. Once the connector is on the wire, you can plug it onto the inline fuse*. The other end of the wire, with the circle loop on it, will be used later, when you put the whole wiring harness into the car - it will be connected to a power source.
*This fuse is important because it protects your haloz from burning out if you ever got a short. So if you ever notice in the future that your haloz aren't working, this fuse would be the one to check - You can replace them easily with the same fuses that you use in your fusebox.
.jpg)
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(05).jpg
4) Okay, now this picture is shown just to make you aware of what needs to be connected up LATER. All you will really need to do once the wiring is all in the car, is match up colors. Refer to this picture for details on how to connect the green and blue wires together. DO NOT Do Any Crimping HERE.
.jpg)
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(06).jpg
5) This is what your wiring harness should look like after you connected the Power Wire to the fuse. You'll notice that I ran the Power Wire to the + post of a 9V battery and the ground wire from the Black Transformer, to the - post of the battery. I did this to test that the current was running alright, and you'll notice that the switch light came on, so that means that we've done it right. You can use this as a benchmark.
6) For now, you are done with the wiring kit. You must now focus on removing your dash. Refer to other sources for instructions on how to do this, or check out http://groups.msn.com/HyundaiTiburon/dashremoval.msnw for details. What that site won't tell you is that you need to disconnect each connector behind the heater dials and all the switches and clock. This way you can take out the whole dash. However, if you don't want to do this, then it IS possible to just proceed onto Step 7 and 8.
http://www.haloz.biz (Prices are on this website)
2. Tools needed and sizes.
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(01).jpg
3. Sizes of wires, # of connectors, etc.
Just get the wiring kit from http://www.haloz.biz - has everything you need.
4. Favorite beer used during installation
Any available.
5. Help needed or what needs to be done professionally for safety sake.
It will help if your comfortable taking apart your dash, and if you have an understanding of basic electrical components. If not, I've provided information to make it simple for anyone (or at least tried).
6. Pictures
Alrighty, if you're ready, here we go...
---------------------------------------------------
Okay you're excited that you made your purchase on the Interior Haloz kit from Blacktibs, but you're overwhelmed at how to actually install it. Well this is my attempt at simplifying the process. *NOTE* I used the wiring kit that Blacktibs sells with his kits, so if you plan on doing it some other way, this DIY may not work for you. So this is the approach I would recommend taking so that you don't get too frustrated.
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(02).jpg
1) First, let's look at the Wiring Kit, because there are so many wires and it looks like a big jumble of a mess. Take note of what I've labeled in the pictures. What you're looking at in this picture is the main part of the wiring.
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(03).jpg
2) Now in this picture you are looking at the wiring that runs to each of the haloz. The ends that have green and blue tape on them will be connected to the Main Wiring Harness, and then the ends that have Red and Black will be connected to the wires that run from the Haloz themselves.
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(04).jpg
3) Alright, here's the first actual piece of work that you need to do. Find one of the clear blue connectors like in the picture, that will fit over the post on the Inline Fuse. Once you have that, set that aside for a second. The wire at the bottom of the picture is the Power Wire. The end that has the white tape on it, needs to be stripped so that the wire is exposed and then crimp on the connector that we set aside. Once the connector is on the wire, you can plug it onto the inline fuse*. The other end of the wire, with the circle loop on it, will be used later, when you put the whole wiring harness into the car - it will be connected to a power source.
*This fuse is important because it protects your haloz from burning out if you ever got a short. So if you ever notice in the future that your haloz aren't working, this fuse would be the one to check - You can replace them easily with the same fuses that you use in your fusebox.
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(05).jpg
4) Okay, now this picture is shown just to make you aware of what needs to be connected up LATER. All you will really need to do once the wiring is all in the car, is match up colors. Refer to this picture for details on how to connect the green and blue wires together. DO NOT Do Any Crimping HERE.
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(06).jpg
5) This is what your wiring harness should look like after you connected the Power Wire to the fuse. You'll notice that I ran the Power Wire to the + post of a 9V battery and the ground wire from the Black Transformer, to the - post of the battery. I did this to test that the current was running alright, and you'll notice that the switch light came on, so that means that we've done it right. You can use this as a benchmark.
6) For now, you are done with the wiring kit. You must now focus on removing your dash. Refer to other sources for instructions on how to do this, or check out http://groups.msn.com/HyundaiTiburon/dashremoval.msnw for details. What that site won't tell you is that you need to disconnect each connector behind the heater dials and all the switches and clock. This way you can take out the whole dash. However, if you don't want to do this, then it IS possible to just proceed onto Step 7 and 8.
Thread Starter
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Posts: 3,237
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7) From here, you can proceed with the installation of the main wiring harness into the car. Unfortunately I don't have pictures for this, but if you remember there's only two wires that we need to hook up - the Power Wire and the Ground Wire (as demonstrated with the Testing Battery). So all I did was take the whole bunch of wires and put it somewhere right above the fusebox. Then take the Ground Wire, and screw it onto the metal body of the car (whereever you can find a spot). With the other Power Wire, I actually removed the Circle end and stripped one-half inch off the wire, and then spliced it onto the Green w/ Black striped wire shown here (http://groups.msn.com/isapi/fetch.dll?action=MyPhotos_GetPubPhoto&PhotoID=nIQA AAJYIOGVDMKFpcUQ*txa!CCrlq7WMkmMOrlQMcUG0RrT8CtiBt VWeUBQpUQBxPAp
FYUXl0W8). I'm sorry I couldn't take a picture of this, but if I get around to taking my dash apart again, I will gladly do so. After you've completed that, then you can pat yourself on the back, because that was about the HARDEST part of this whole install (minus the dash removal)...
.jpg)
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(07).jpg
8) Here, you're going to have remove the center vents off of the dash. They're held on by four little clips that just need to be pryed away a lil bit, and then you can free off the vent. You'll want to then drill holes with the 1/4" bit, on the outsides of the vents. What I mean by this is, for the vent that's closer to the driver, drill so that the wires will come out towards the driver. And then for the vent that's furthest from the drivers side, drill the hole so that the wires of the halo will come out towards the passenger side. This just allows better access to the wires, and so that the wires won't get caught between the vents. These directions are optional for the placement, but I did it for my benefit.
.jpg)
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(08).jpg
9) After drilling the holes, simply follow the instructions on this picture. After you've done this and put the vent back on with the halo installed, your finished product should look like this -
.jpg)
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(09).jpg
.jpg)
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(10).jpg
10) Next comes the Passenger Side Door Vent. I wish I had taken more pictures of this, so that you could see what's going on, but I'll have to work with this for now. Basically, this is a top view of the passenger door with the panel peeled back to show the wiring. The picture describes what's goin on best.
.jpg)
<a href="http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/haloz_install/haloz_install-(11).jpg%5burl%5d
11)%20In%20this%20picture,%20you%20are%20seeing%20 where%20I%20ran%20the%20wire%20from%20the%20door%2 0vent%20so%20that%20it%20was%20somewhat%20hidden.% 20I%20am%20running%20it%20behind%20the%20carpet,%2 0all%20the%20way%20underneath%20the%20passenger's% 20side%20foor%20well%20and%20behind%20the%20center %20console%20(where%20the%20radio%20would%20be).%2 0The%20wire%20will%20come%20out%20on%20the%20other %20side%20where%20the%20driver's%20pedals%20are,%2 0like%20in%20this%20picture:
.jpg)
%5burl=http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/haloz_install/haloz_install-(12).jpg%5dhttp://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(12).jpg" target="_blank">http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(11).jpg
11) In this picture, you are seeing where I ran the wire from the door vent so that it was somewhat hidden. I am running it behind the carpet, all the way underneath the passenger's side foor well and behind the center console (where the radio would be). The wire will come out on the other side where the driver's pedals are, like in this picture:
<a href="http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/haloz_install/haloz_install-(12).jpg" target="_blank">http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(12).jpg://http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/...nstall-(12).jpg
12) You'll do the same thing that you did with the passenger's side door, onto the driver's side door, and then run the wire inside the driver's foot well. Now you can refer back to the picture in Step 4, and you'll want to connect the green and blue wire from the "Long" wire (the driver's side door vent) and crimp them into the yellow connectors. Then the green and blue ends from the Center Vents and the Passenger Door will need to be stripped about 1/2" each and then you can twist the blue and blue together and the green and green together, and then insert them into their respective blue connectors on the main wiring harness. Crimp that, and you will be set.
THE FINAL PRODUCT:
.jpg)
[url=http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/haloz_install/haloz_install-(13).jpg]http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(13).jpg://http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/...nstall-(13).jpg</a>
That is basically it. I know I wasn't as clear as I wanted to be, because I left out some pictures, but I tried. This DIY relies heavily on the pictures to help with the installation, and if in the future, the pictures do not show up, due to unforseen reasons, simply email me at mrpsxplyr@hotmail.com and I'll fix the problem. Send any questions that way as well, or to Blacktibs ([url="http://www.haloz.biz"]http://www.haloz.biz://http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/...//www.haloz.biz</a>)
Let me know what you think. Thanks, and good luck!
FYUXl0W8). I'm sorry I couldn't take a picture of this, but if I get around to taking my dash apart again, I will gladly do so. After you've completed that, then you can pat yourself on the back, because that was about the HARDEST part of this whole install (minus the dash removal)...
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(07).jpg
8) Here, you're going to have remove the center vents off of the dash. They're held on by four little clips that just need to be pryed away a lil bit, and then you can free off the vent. You'll want to then drill holes with the 1/4" bit, on the outsides of the vents. What I mean by this is, for the vent that's closer to the driver, drill so that the wires will come out towards the driver. And then for the vent that's furthest from the drivers side, drill the hole so that the wires of the halo will come out towards the passenger side. This just allows better access to the wires, and so that the wires won't get caught between the vents. These directions are optional for the placement, but I did it for my benefit.
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(08).jpg
9) After drilling the holes, simply follow the instructions on this picture. After you've done this and put the vent back on with the halo installed, your finished product should look like this -
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(09).jpg
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(10).jpg
10) Next comes the Passenger Side Door Vent. I wish I had taken more pictures of this, so that you could see what's going on, but I'll have to work with this for now. Basically, this is a top view of the passenger door with the panel peeled back to show the wiring. The picture describes what's goin on best.
<a href="http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/haloz_install/haloz_install-(11).jpg%5burl%5d
11)%20In%20this%20picture,%20you%20are%20seeing%20 where%20I%20ran%20the%20wire%20from%20the%20door%2 0vent%20so%20that%20it%20was%20somewhat%20hidden.% 20I%20am%20running%20it%20behind%20the%20carpet,%2 0all%20the%20way%20underneath%20the%20passenger's% 20side%20foor%20well%20and%20behind%20the%20center %20console%20(where%20the%20radio%20would%20be).%2 0The%20wire%20will%20come%20out%20on%20the%20other %20side%20where%20the%20driver's%20pedals%20are,%2 0like%20in%20this%20picture:
%5burl=http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/haloz_install/haloz_install-(12).jpg%5dhttp://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(12).jpg" target="_blank">http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(11).jpg
11) In this picture, you are seeing where I ran the wire from the door vent so that it was somewhat hidden. I am running it behind the carpet, all the way underneath the passenger's side foor well and behind the center console (where the radio would be). The wire will come out on the other side where the driver's pedals are, like in this picture:
<a href="http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/haloz_install/haloz_install-(12).jpg" target="_blank">http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(12).jpg://http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/...nstall-(12).jpg
12) You'll do the same thing that you did with the passenger's side door, onto the driver's side door, and then run the wire inside the driver's foot well. Now you can refer back to the picture in Step 4, and you'll want to connect the green and blue wire from the "Long" wire (the driver's side door vent) and crimp them into the yellow connectors. Then the green and blue ends from the Center Vents and the Passenger Door will need to be stripped about 1/2" each and then you can twist the blue and blue together and the green and green together, and then insert them into their respective blue connectors on the main wiring harness. Crimp that, and you will be set.
THE FINAL PRODUCT:
[url=http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/haloz_install/haloz_install-(13).jpg]http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(13).jpg://http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/...nstall-(13).jpg</a>
That is basically it. I know I wasn't as clear as I wanted to be, because I left out some pictures, but I tried. This DIY relies heavily on the pictures to help with the installation, and if in the future, the pictures do not show up, due to unforseen reasons, simply email me at mrpsxplyr@hotmail.com and I'll fix the problem. Send any questions that way as well, or to Blacktibs ([url="http://www.haloz.biz"]http://www.haloz.biz://http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/...//www.haloz.biz</a>)
Let me know what you think. Thanks, and good luck!
Thread Starter
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yeah man, this is the get on chris'ass for haloz thread.
You wanted just the replacement LEDs in Amber and Blue? Or Orange and Blue. just let me know. Oh and I got new blue LEDs in so I can make up those speaker rings for us. But only us.
You wanted just the replacement LEDs in Amber and Blue? Or Orange and Blue. just let me know. Oh and I got new blue LEDs in so I can make up those speaker rings for us. But only us.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,436
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From: Rockville, MD
Amber and white please.
Amber and blue is cool too, if you dont have many whites. But I'd prefer white.
Just don't want to upset the little piggys out here. wink1.gif
and for the other ones, I'd prefer red, but if you don't have any, blue would be cool too, my whole interior is going to be blue and red, but I think red for the speakers would go better w/ my red vent haloz.
And don't forget the shrink wrap and some clear zip ties. I have access to a heat gun thru work (Drywall repairs wink1.gif ), so getting the wrap shrunk isn't a problem.
Now i just need to figure out what im gonna do w/ the projector housing, and where and how I'm going to mount my lunar accents......
Thanks mang.
Amber and blue is cool too, if you dont have many whites. But I'd prefer white.
Just don't want to upset the little piggys out here. wink1.gif
and for the other ones, I'd prefer red, but if you don't have any, blue would be cool too, my whole interior is going to be blue and red, but I think red for the speakers would go better w/ my red vent haloz.
And don't forget the shrink wrap and some clear zip ties. I have access to a heat gun thru work (Drywall repairs wink1.gif ), so getting the wrap shrunk isn't a problem.
Now i just need to figure out what im gonna do w/ the projector housing, and where and how I'm going to mount my lunar accents......
Thanks mang.
