StrikeEagle

You sure it was the LED? Hook it up to a 9V battery and test it. I had a similar issue, but it was the socket that was causing it, not the bulb. I simply smacked the light a few times and it came back on. Haven't had a problem since.
If you find that the bulb is good, look into getting either a new socket, checking out the wiring, or hooking something up differently.

likeyoumeanit

^ agreed, it could be some corrosion or something similar where continuity is intermittent

DTN

Sorry man, I missed this. Get a high wattage, high ohmage resistor. A standard lamp has 2 ohms of resistance. I picked up 2 5W 100 Ohm resistors at radioshack, soldered them in series for maximum current resistance and installed them between the left rear brake light + and - lights. It only needs to KNOW the voltage is there.

I tried to explain this before, but you locked the topic, or warned me, or banned me or something. It's a voltage sense line, not a amperage reading. This is important because it requires no current, but full voltage. If you run a voltage through a LED, because of the forward bias and the one way properties, it chops 1.2V-3.6V off of the voltage one way and 12VDC from the voltage the other way. If you put that into a comparitor then ground(0v) or 12VDC (12V) is not equal to the voltage from the LED (0V + 3V or 12V-3V). Therefore it thinks that the car is running with the brake engaged. The soloution is to provide a direct resistive path to ground which bypasses the LED's FV property. An eleventybillion ohm resistor would provide that. The resistor just has to have enough resistance that it won't effect brightness and it has to have enough wattage that it won't burn up. I used 200 ohms @ 5W.



I had the same problem with a superbright LED's bulb. Sometimes they don't solder them correctly. SuperbrightLEDs has a 1 year warranty though so I recommend them. I don't know what you get from E-Bay. You should ask. Also, I've repaired a superbrightLEDs 24LED bulb once when I didn't want to send it back. It involves breaking the case, soldering and then supergluing the case back together. Don't get too crazy with the breaking. Just get 1/2 of the case off and make it clean so it goes back neatly with superglue. It will be unnoticable if you do it right.

LED bulbs are great because they're usually mounted on circuit boards. This means you can repair them with the proper tools. You can't repair a glass bulb.

Here's a few things that may effect the longevity of your bulb.
1. make sure there's no water getting in there, check for water spots inside the housing
2. make sure the connections are tight, you can pull the copper connections inside the jack to make sure they are making the proper contact.
3. Tightness of jack in the housing, you may need a new jack
4. Bad soldering on the LED bulb which you can repair or the manufacturer may replace
5. Bad design/poor quality materials.


I hope that helps

StrikeEagle

Don't think you mentioned this one, but which bulb would you use for the map lights? Sylvania says it's a DE3175, but I have no idea what length it would be.

REDZMAN

DE3022.



I don't care. No one cares. We know what causes the problem, that's all that matters. I usually lock topics where you get over technical, or just post in, because you are more annoying than an ingrown hair on the taint.

I already posted a flasher that will work, and I've got resistor loads if I really want to do it.

DTN

Use what RED ZMAN said. I'm running 24 single blue LED custom replacment for mine up front and 14 white in the rear.

StrikeEagle

Ah, I found it, the 30mm one... Now, can we fit the 3022x9 (9 LEDs, the wide one), or do we have to stick with the 3022x4 (4 LEDs)?

Blank_00Tib

Well any led bulb I put in there burns out so if I put a battery to them they still act the same as if the were actually on the car flickering away till there dead. Really pissin me off. Don't think water is the problem. Would it burn out a normal halogen bulb if it was water or corrosion or anything? Cause the halogen's are fine.

Hyunshark21

i have a question, i was unsure so i thought i would ask, i was wondering when you buy from superbrightleds.com do the LEDs come in pairs or just one? didnt want to buy more then i needed.

Winston

So I just completed my LED conversion.

All exterior bulbs are now LED except for low beams(HID) and high beams.

But there is a problem, I ordered the H3-WHP9 DRL fog light bulbs from Superbrightleds.com, and the fogs don't turn on now.

Here's a pic of the bulbs I put in\/\/\/



The little green light on my fog-light button still goes on but not the fog-lights themselves.

I called Superbrightleds and they said some cars can detect if a bulb is out, and because of the LEDs lower current draw the car thinks the bulb is out and stops sending power.

Could this be the problem?

I'm stumped.