phorq

ok, if the wheel gap was actually there, would the super-wide wheels mess with suspension?

Ru-E

Yes it's true, because you got 3 different materials (steel is your door, fiberglass it's your kit and bondo is what your molding with) these three materials expand and shirk differently becaue they are different. So you got one expanding and one shirking CRACK also when your car goes high speeds your body flops and this cracks again!

justin

phorq, get off my post beat_dow ha ha

random, can u explain the "right way" to mould the sideskirts so that they wont crack? could u email me at justinbittner220@hotmail.com and let me know? thanks

everyone else, thanks for your help and input

phorq

sorry justin, when i saw that pic, i wanted to know more about it. the floor's all yours.

justin

phorq, lol it's cool i was just playin tongue.gif

mrfrieze

Justin, I have never had any problems molding side skirts, but if bondo is used alone, it will shrink and you will see a line where the top of the skirt hits the body, but if you use fiber glass mat to mold in your skirts it will last much longer, but on the other hand, it is a bitch to mold with fiber glass mat. If your going to mold your fender flares do it this way, strip your fender with some 80 grit paper, then when all the paint is gone use some adhesive, automix 8223 is what I use, applied the flare, sand down the flares back down to the fiber glass, and lay your mat over the entire fender, I would use at least 4 layers of glass, sand and use filler where needed. Do the same thing for the skirts, but on these there is no need to cover the whole skirt, you can stop the glass on an edge and blend it in to that edge. I would advise against this if you’re a weekend warrior, you will be with out your car for a good amount of time. If you have any question call me at the shop 904 997 8380, ask for Chris,

justin

since im going to be repainting my entire car, probably the same color that it is, unless i see another color i REALLY want, the whole car is going to be getting stripped down. thanks mrfrieze for the advice and help. ill let my guy know and see what he thinks about it. hopefully he can do it and do it right.

does anyone know if flares are a "universal fit" or if i need to find tiburon only ones or something?

mrfrieze

yes,

mrfrieze

This might be a better Idea, see if the shop can make them for you out of sheet metal, or find a sheet metal fab shop and have them make then for you, in the long run have them made of sheet metal would last much longer, because they can be welded on, and you wont have to worry to much about using to much filler or messing with the fiber glass.

Random

what MR Freeze said is one of the ways to mould in body parts. Mine were done with a mix of fiberglass bondo, and "normal" bondo. The fiberglass bondo ($25 a gallon from napa) is mixed with hardner, then slathered on the side skirt and BARE METAL of the car. Once cured, continue build up with the fiberglass bondo until the fitment is close. Then use normal bondo for the fine smoothing, then sand.

The fiberglass bondo "flexes" with the metal and with the fiberglass body kit, giving you the best of both worlds. The "normal" bondo is there to give you ease of sanding, and ease of paint prep.

This combo is a BITCH to get off. I've been "unmoulding" my side skirts. It took me 5 hours to get ONE side skirt off. The fiberglass bondo is the same color as the real fiberglass. So figuring out what was body kit and what was bondo was really hard. I've got about 30 photos of how to "unmould", but that's a seperate thread for a different day, once I post up the photos.