Damn Car wash? Any washing tips?
11-20-2001, 11:20 AM
#21
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Oh, and the 3m stuff is Glaze. It isn;t an armor all or anything like that. It is sort of like a greasy wax. It is available at most good auto parts stores. If not, call around to some paint-supply stores. They will almost undoubtably have it.
Hope this helps.
Jeremy
Hope this helps.
Jeremy
11-20-2001, 12:58 PM
#23
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Vehicle: 1998 Tib
hmm...World of difference on non-clear coated cars? My buddy has a black 87 T-bird that he had repainted a year ago. Non clear coat paint. Maybe I ll give it a try on that. Paint is ****ty on the car. So anything would help.
For interior, I use Armor All Original Formula. That stuff is the best and lasts the longest, IMO. Usually lasts 6 months. However, I did notice one thing. If let out in the sun too long, the armor can evaporate somewhat and leave a film on your windows. Hard to come off. I have a sunshade that helps this a bit.
For interior, I use Armor All Original Formula. That stuff is the best and lasts the longest, IMO. Usually lasts 6 months. However, I did notice one thing. If let out in the sun too long, the armor can evaporate somewhat and leave a film on your windows. Hard to come off. I have a sunshade that helps this a bit.
11-21-2001, 07:03 AM
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Vehicle: 1998 Tib
QUOTE
Originally posted by Decker:
I don't want to sit out in my parents driveway for 4 hours washing and waxing my car.
thankx
-nico
I don't want to sit out in my parents driveway for 4 hours washing and waxing my car.
thankx
-nico
Regarding the first post, which I would have addressed. Take the time out to do it. If you do a quickie job, you will scratch the car, leave spots, smear dirt, etc. and look worse then if you left it dirty! I have a saying: Either do it right or don't do it at all. tongue.gif
11-22-2001, 08:04 PM
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Interior....*here we go again*
AGAIN, TO RE-ITERRATE, THESE ARE TIPS AND SUGGESTIONS. MY A$$ IS NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU TRY THESE AND SOMETHING GOES HORRIBLY WRONG. LIKE WITH THE INCREDIBLE HULK...OR ROSIE O'DONNELL.*LOL*
Whew...now that this has been said...here go the tips.
--Floormats. Okay, everyone hates floormats. Admit it. They are the worse part of a car to clean. Here is the tip. Assuming your floormats are in decent condition to start with, take them down to the local PRESSURE-WASH WAND-TYPE car wash. Hang them up on those floor mat hangers *yes, they are there for this reason* and soap them up. Wash your car and then go back and pressure rinse them in even strokes at about 12" from the mat top-to-bottom...UNTIL THE WATER RUNS CLEAN...no dirt...no soap. When done, take a ice-scraper *no BS..i do this once a month and my mats sow NO wear* and use it like a squeege and gently but firmly sgueege as much water out as you can. I have found NO better way to clean floormats. Also, to prevent the need altogether, buy a cheapo set of universal mats from a discount store and lie them over the mats for everyday driving. This simple and cheap step helps TREMENDOUSLY in keeping the mats clean to start with.
--Leather. Okay boys...here is the skinny. I have leather seats. A buddy of mine has leather seats. My mom has had two Mustangs with leather seats. We ALL use Tanner's Preserve cleaner and Tanner's Preserve conditioner. I have used Armor All leather Care and Blue Magic and was impressed with neither. Use the cleaner per manufacturer's suggestion, and then use the conditioner PER MANUFACTURER"S SUGGESTION. You will not be disappointed. I spilled ORANGE gatorade on my leather seats, and this stuff cleaned and protected them no sweat. I was amazed! ALSO....NEVER EVER EVER USE WINDOW CLEANER OR *GULP* ARMOR ALL ON LEATHER. EITHER OF THESE WILL RUIN THE LEATHER, AND ONCE ABSORBED INTO LEATHER GRAIN, ARMOR ALL CANNOT BE REMOVED...JUST A WARNING. I have seen armor all permanently ruin leather seats in a Rolls Royce I once cleaned...it's not pretty. The guy had used armor all on the seats and came to me to ask why they were cracking. I told him I'd do my best but he'll likely need to buy new seats. BEWARE. Use it on the e-brake and shift boot too. Even the shift knob and steering wheel *if it is a leather wrapped one* Armor all will damage these just like the seats.
--Windows. Eagle One or Armor All or 20/20 CLEAR ALCHOHOL-BASED glass cleaner. Not only is it safe for tint, but it cleans like windex just can't. Most anything short of leather *it will dry out leather* can be cleaned with this stuff *dashes, armrests, etc*. I have found by trial and error that the best window cleaning rags ar the blue shop towels you can by on a roll. They are paper and have a texture that helps eliminate streaking. Use the stuff, wipe it off, and then use a DRY rag to wipe the window down again. It is a bitch, but this technique virtually eliminates streaks. Even when doing windows in direct sunlight in summer.
-Carpets. Floormats are easy..pressure wash. Carpets are a bitch. Most commercially available "dry-clean" carpet shapoos in the areosol can work well. I have had awesome results with Blue Magic "Dry Clean" brand. TIP: it sounds like common sense, but try to clean the carpet with a color of rag that matches the color of the carpet. Their is nothing more annoying than red or white lint from a towel on black carpet. *tibby owners...lol*
-Dash and vynil. Okay, this is where i get wierd ya'll. If you want glossy, go with armor all tire foam on a rag *don't spray directly on unless you want to re-do your windows*. Try to avoid using any HEAVY silicone-based product *tire wet, etc* as they attract dirt and are greasy as hell. Clean the dash *window cleaner* and get the dust off first. The Pledge 'Grab-It' dusting cloths are awesome for this. Now, if you want a nice low gloss 'dealer look', use the Tanner's Preserve Leather Conditioner on your vinyl. No, I am not kidding. Spread it on like armor all and buff it lightly. It will even gloss those shiny hard plastic pieces around the radio on Tibs without leaving a greasy film. Even the radio face! And none of that nasty "Amor All Greasy Film" on your window when the silicones in Armor All bake off in the sun. Truely incredible stuff.
-Always have an assortment of stiff and soft bristled brushes as well as a travel-size box of q-tips. They come in really handy for things like air vents and door creases.
-Vacuuming. Honestly, I have yet to find a vacuum that will clean like the ones at the car wash. They are the best. For floormats, a good home upright with a beater bar will do wonders.
-Hatch area cover and hatch area carpet. This stuff is maddening. Here is my solution. Get a CLEAN, DRY soft bristled scrub-brush, even a tire-brush *most auto-parts stores have these*. Remove the hatch cover and lightly brush in one direction. the junk that normally won;t get picked up by a vacuum will brush right out. The same holds true for the hatch area carpet. Remove it *EASY to do..it lifts right out..both the spare cover and the rest surrounding it* and brush it in the same way.
Well, I thinkt hat about covers it. If anyone needs a list of products, e-mail me and I will try to provide it.
Sincerely,
Jeremy
AGAIN, TO RE-ITERRATE, THESE ARE TIPS AND SUGGESTIONS. MY A$$ IS NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU TRY THESE AND SOMETHING GOES HORRIBLY WRONG. LIKE WITH THE INCREDIBLE HULK...OR ROSIE O'DONNELL.*LOL*
Whew...now that this has been said...here go the tips.
--Floormats. Okay, everyone hates floormats. Admit it. They are the worse part of a car to clean. Here is the tip. Assuming your floormats are in decent condition to start with, take them down to the local PRESSURE-WASH WAND-TYPE car wash. Hang them up on those floor mat hangers *yes, they are there for this reason* and soap them up. Wash your car and then go back and pressure rinse them in even strokes at about 12" from the mat top-to-bottom...UNTIL THE WATER RUNS CLEAN...no dirt...no soap. When done, take a ice-scraper *no BS..i do this once a month and my mats sow NO wear* and use it like a squeege and gently but firmly sgueege as much water out as you can. I have found NO better way to clean floormats. Also, to prevent the need altogether, buy a cheapo set of universal mats from a discount store and lie them over the mats for everyday driving. This simple and cheap step helps TREMENDOUSLY in keeping the mats clean to start with.
--Leather. Okay boys...here is the skinny. I have leather seats. A buddy of mine has leather seats. My mom has had two Mustangs with leather seats. We ALL use Tanner's Preserve cleaner and Tanner's Preserve conditioner. I have used Armor All leather Care and Blue Magic and was impressed with neither. Use the cleaner per manufacturer's suggestion, and then use the conditioner PER MANUFACTURER"S SUGGESTION. You will not be disappointed. I spilled ORANGE gatorade on my leather seats, and this stuff cleaned and protected them no sweat. I was amazed! ALSO....NEVER EVER EVER USE WINDOW CLEANER OR *GULP* ARMOR ALL ON LEATHER. EITHER OF THESE WILL RUIN THE LEATHER, AND ONCE ABSORBED INTO LEATHER GRAIN, ARMOR ALL CANNOT BE REMOVED...JUST A WARNING. I have seen armor all permanently ruin leather seats in a Rolls Royce I once cleaned...it's not pretty. The guy had used armor all on the seats and came to me to ask why they were cracking. I told him I'd do my best but he'll likely need to buy new seats. BEWARE. Use it on the e-brake and shift boot too. Even the shift knob and steering wheel *if it is a leather wrapped one* Armor all will damage these just like the seats.
--Windows. Eagle One or Armor All or 20/20 CLEAR ALCHOHOL-BASED glass cleaner. Not only is it safe for tint, but it cleans like windex just can't. Most anything short of leather *it will dry out leather* can be cleaned with this stuff *dashes, armrests, etc*. I have found by trial and error that the best window cleaning rags ar the blue shop towels you can by on a roll. They are paper and have a texture that helps eliminate streaking. Use the stuff, wipe it off, and then use a DRY rag to wipe the window down again. It is a bitch, but this technique virtually eliminates streaks. Even when doing windows in direct sunlight in summer.
-Carpets. Floormats are easy..pressure wash. Carpets are a bitch. Most commercially available "dry-clean" carpet shapoos in the areosol can work well. I have had awesome results with Blue Magic "Dry Clean" brand. TIP: it sounds like common sense, but try to clean the carpet with a color of rag that matches the color of the carpet. Their is nothing more annoying than red or white lint from a towel on black carpet. *tibby owners...lol*
-Dash and vynil. Okay, this is where i get wierd ya'll. If you want glossy, go with armor all tire foam on a rag *don't spray directly on unless you want to re-do your windows*. Try to avoid using any HEAVY silicone-based product *tire wet, etc* as they attract dirt and are greasy as hell. Clean the dash *window cleaner* and get the dust off first. The Pledge 'Grab-It' dusting cloths are awesome for this. Now, if you want a nice low gloss 'dealer look', use the Tanner's Preserve Leather Conditioner on your vinyl. No, I am not kidding. Spread it on like armor all and buff it lightly. It will even gloss those shiny hard plastic pieces around the radio on Tibs without leaving a greasy film. Even the radio face! And none of that nasty "Amor All Greasy Film" on your window when the silicones in Armor All bake off in the sun. Truely incredible stuff.
-Always have an assortment of stiff and soft bristled brushes as well as a travel-size box of q-tips. They come in really handy for things like air vents and door creases.
-Vacuuming. Honestly, I have yet to find a vacuum that will clean like the ones at the car wash. They are the best. For floormats, a good home upright with a beater bar will do wonders.
-Hatch area cover and hatch area carpet. This stuff is maddening. Here is my solution. Get a CLEAN, DRY soft bristled scrub-brush, even a tire-brush *most auto-parts stores have these*. Remove the hatch cover and lightly brush in one direction. the junk that normally won;t get picked up by a vacuum will brush right out. The same holds true for the hatch area carpet. Remove it *EASY to do..it lifts right out..both the spare cover and the rest surrounding it* and brush it in the same way.
Well, I thinkt hat about covers it. If anyone needs a list of products, e-mail me and I will try to provide it.
Sincerely,
Jeremy
11-24-2001, 05:08 PM
#26
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Hey, thanks again! Damn this a long thread. I need to make a shopping list smile.gif
Here is a leather product I found by accident on ebay, and here is the product page for the distributor. It looks good and I may give it a try sometime.
Glossy Leather
[ November 25, 2001: Message edited by: coupe2k ]
Here is a leather product I found by accident on ebay, and here is the product page for the distributor. It looks good and I may give it a try sometime.
Glossy Leather
[ November 25, 2001: Message edited by: coupe2k ]
04-14-2002, 12:43 AM
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Digging up an old topic here, it's finally nice enough here in Minnesota to actually do some car wash stuff... rolleyes.gif
I tried the 3M Imperial Hand Glaze on my black tib, and the results are excellent! I applied and removed it by hand (not fun). Oh and Swiffer makes auto wipes now, they work great!
I tried the 3M Imperial Hand Glaze on my black tib, and the results are excellent! I applied and removed it by hand (not fun). Oh and Swiffer makes auto wipes now, they work great!
04-14-2002, 04:58 AM
#28
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Damn, we need to get some of these great informative posts compiled into "guides" or "FAQ's" and have them someplace on the site that's easy to find. If peeps have different opinions or methods for a particular topic, each could write up their own guide and put both guides on the page.
Getting a bit OT here, but...
We could have car wash/detailing guides, wheel, tire and upsizing FAQ/guide, suspension FAQ, dash painting FAQ/guide, light bulb size guide, etc...all the general stuff that peeps ask questions about on a regular basis. If needed, we could put the guides in a new "FAQ & Guides" forum.
(I know the search feature is useful, but not nearly as useful as a fully compiled guide or FAQ would be)
...gonna repost this in the General forum I think...
Getting a bit OT here, but...
We could have car wash/detailing guides, wheel, tire and upsizing FAQ/guide, suspension FAQ, dash painting FAQ/guide, light bulb size guide, etc...all the general stuff that peeps ask questions about on a regular basis. If needed, we could put the guides in a new "FAQ & Guides" forum.
(I know the search feature is useful, but not nearly as useful as a fully compiled guide or FAQ would be)
...gonna repost this in the General forum I think...
04-14-2002, 05:23 AM
#29
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Vehicle: 2005 MINI Cooper S
Jeremy, nice guide!! 
Not to steal from your AMAZING tips, but, just to show that there was one already...
Winning Car Shows Part 1
Winning Car Shows Part 2
Winning Car Shows Part 3
Winning Car Shows Final
It's by Lo&Show... rolleyes.gif
Not to steal from your AMAZING tips, but, just to show that there was one already...Winning Car Shows Part 1
Winning Car Shows Part 2
Winning Car Shows Part 3
Winning Car Shows Final
It's by Lo&Show... rolleyes.gif