i would have thought the cam pulley would have the notch next to the bolt hole like the harmonic balancer.

 

6 of 1, 1/2-dz. of the other on woodruff keys vs. dowels I guess



I wonder, can just the sprocket or the exhaust cam from later years be substituted? I'd rather have it running than keep the same exhaust profile. edit: local dealership says the timing belt sprocket is the same from mine and from a 2002 (random year, example of solid lifter newer style head) They want $61 for one, with a special order. We'll see.



So does anyone nearby have a Beta 1 OR 2 exhaust cam timing belt sprocket? It looks like a trip to South Austin tomorrow, for me.

 

Pictures:











I think I'll try something else next time:

 

All's well that ends well in this case. The pulley was $10 from Austin Wrench-A-Part and the car is up and running again.



I guess this was good practice work - I noticed as I put the pullies on the water pump, that the water pump bearings are not quite as silent as they used to be.



ETA: I couldn't get the engine to be still with just pushing on the brake pedal in gear. I tried a piece of wood instead of a wrench and it destroyed the wood instead of holding the engine. I ended up using a sliver of radiator hose on both sides of the wrench to protect the pulley and the cylinder head. It bit through on the pulley side but just a little bit, and the cylinder head piece of hose was squished but not squished through, so that worked.

 

i'm baffled at how the ring gear was damaged when the spoke of the cam pulley was being immobilized which is a pretty solid area.



because cast aluminum?

 

Leverage, and cast metal. My Lovely Assistant was pulling a long wrench with a fulcrum right near a short other-end-of-the-wrench lever. I suspect the angles involved were more "pull like mad just in case" than "hold this perfectly still" and the wrench may have come to bear on the wide outer ring vs. the reinforced central area. That's a lot of force involved on some pretty small contact points. The teeth may have only been designed to handle the mild inward compression from the timing belt, which is reasonable if everyone on the job understands what (and what not) to do. Still, I told her "you didn't break it, it broke" because I can see this could happen to anyone.

 

When mine broke it was on the narrow spoke parts. I ended up using an impact to remove and install the bolt for the crank pulley. If I ever do it again it will be using a chain wrench.

 

A chain wrench wrapped around what, the crank pulley? I'd go for a strap wrench, to avoid damage to the ribbing on the pulley. It'd have to be clamped pretty frikken tight to withstand the torque spec. without slipping.

 

I snapped a spoke on my sprocket. I went ahead and ran the car that way. Before long I had a real catastrophic failure and bent valves. Don't run a cracked or broken pulley.







The only reliable and seemingly safe method I've found of tightening these is torque extensions for impact wrenches. I have a set and they've worked for me. I've checked torque and while not being spot on it's close enough IMO for jobs like this.

 

I think, with both a picture of a legit catastrophic failure, and by reminding us of torque sticks, 187SKS just won this thread.



Twice.