Of course you can skip gears. smile.gif You could rev to 6450 in first and hit 29mph, then shift into 5th and be at 1500rpm if you wanted to. Not good driving, but whatever floats your boat. lol.gif

 

I changed the gear oil a few months ago. Did the whole Redline MT90 + Lucas thing. I've had the problem since I got the car though. I have another odd shifting problem too. Sometimes, when I try to shift into 1st, the shifter only goes halfway forward, and just won't move any further. But if I put it back in neutral, disengage then reengage the clutch, it will go in...sometimes. Doesn't matter if I'm at a complete stop, it still does it. Another sign of bad synchros/timing/bearing?

 

Yep, sounds like those problems. Mine does that, but only if I try shifting into first too early, like 11mph. As I continue slowing down it lets it all the way into the gear. :roll: I hate first in these cars. Its so short, I prefer RSX-S or other cars like it where 1st goes to about 38mph or so, then having the rapid change in gearing to 2nd being such a long gear. I believe 6200 in first is like 24mph, and 6200 in second is like 60.... bah. evil.gif

 

When you downshift, try to rev match your gears. It is simple, when you downshift, you press the clutch, give throttle to raise the revs, downshift and let go of the clutch. This will save your synchros and overall engine/tranny.

However, downshifting higher than 3-4000rpm is "bad". The engine is not made to work the other way around. Using downshifting on a regular basis to slow you down is not good. How much is a set of brakes? How much is it to open an engine to replace a few parts? wink.gif

 

Grrrrrr!!! I really don't wanna have to shell out the major $$$ it's gonna require to get the friggin thing fixed. I wonder if it'd be cheaper to just buy a whole new tranny.

 

Tibs come that way. I highly doubt any maintenence or a new tranny would help the problems you are experiencing for long. Its just the way the car is geared and the transmission is set up. The Tib is by far the easiest car to get into gear I've driven, but it has its drawbacks. Second gear being one of them. Its a problem you have to live with.

I've found rev matching highly unnecessary. GSX is pushing 360whp running 12.6 at the track. Figuring AWD loss, I'm running about 430HP to the crank. I'm still on the stock tranny and my second clutch. Obviously I replaced my stocker. I've always downshifted without rev-matching to 3,000-3,200 RPM and slowly let out on the clutch. 14,000 miles later and about 200 runs at the track and hard daily driving and the clutch is exhibiting only normal wear and tear on an aftermarket piece that doesn't last as long as stock ones. The Tibby works the same way.

 

Oh man, I wish I would have read this a couple years back..I always downshift to slow my car down..

 

so do I... my transmission has 73,000 miles on it and shifts just as good as when it was new

 

Rev matching highly unnecessary? How do you come to this conclusion? Clutch disc wear comes from the clutch slipping. When you don't match rev's, either the clutch sticks and the tires spin or the clutch slips (or you break other shit!).

That's why first gear is the hardest to learn, it is necessary to either slip the clutch or spin the tires because you are at a stand still. On engagement the clutch disc isn't moving and the flywheel is, thus it either sticks and spins the tires or the clutch slips.

Sure when racing, dump that sucka. But for daily driving if you want your clutch to last longer, match rev's so the clutch doesn't slip (or as little as possible) between gears. This will also remove or reduce your car's juddering between gears. Obviously for first gear you can't spin the tires all the time on a daily driver, so you have to slip the clutch, but the rest of the gears it's not necessary.

 

There is one thing you can do to your tranny to help you. I you look on the casing of your tranny, their is a rod that moves when you step on the clutch. Replace that rod with a longer one. The reason is that when you step on the clutch, you generate hydrolic pressure that disengage the clutch. The problem is that when your clutch pedal is to the metal, you are not always at maximum clutch clearance. Therefor, by using a longer rod, you have a head start on clutch disengagement which can makje the difference between a misshift, a crying synchro and a smooth shift.