SONIC TESTING???
03-21-2003, 03:35 AM
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SONIC TESTING???
I heard about something used to see if their is a crack or leak in an engine block. Does anyone know what its really called and who can do it?
03-21-2003, 04:32 AM
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there are many different testing methodologies.
Magnafluxing is the most common
Dry Magnafluxing
A process performed that enables the eye to see cracks in any magnatizeable part. All cast iron cylinder blocks and cylinder heads are dry magnafluxed to reveal any heat or stress cracks in the parts.
Wet Magnafluxing
Used for magnafluxing any magnatizeable part. The process involves to first magnatize the part, then wash the part down with the wetmag chemical which has metal particulates afloat within the chemical. The overhead hood on the machine is then lowered to cover the machine and parts to darkness so that the part can be inspected with a black light. This type of magnafluxing is much more affective that dry magnafluxing because of the liquid used. The liquid is able to flow into small tight areas and any cracks show up as a flourescent green/yellow line to the naked eye. Parts that are most often wet magged include connecting rods, crankshafts, camshafts, axles, gears, suspension parts, and boat props just to name a few.
http://www.merkurxr4ti.com/magnaflux.html
http://www.artsautomotive.com/crackcheck.htm
http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRaci...blockchecks.cfm
If you do an internet search on "block check" or "block crack" you'll find lots of links to various shops and info sites.
Sonic checking is usually done to check the thickness of a part (usually the block or head) to verify uniform thickness and density/strength. Search the web using "sonic testing" for more info.
Magnafluxing is the most common
Dry Magnafluxing
A process performed that enables the eye to see cracks in any magnatizeable part. All cast iron cylinder blocks and cylinder heads are dry magnafluxed to reveal any heat or stress cracks in the parts.
Wet Magnafluxing
Used for magnafluxing any magnatizeable part. The process involves to first magnatize the part, then wash the part down with the wetmag chemical which has metal particulates afloat within the chemical. The overhead hood on the machine is then lowered to cover the machine and parts to darkness so that the part can be inspected with a black light. This type of magnafluxing is much more affective that dry magnafluxing because of the liquid used. The liquid is able to flow into small tight areas and any cracks show up as a flourescent green/yellow line to the naked eye. Parts that are most often wet magged include connecting rods, crankshafts, camshafts, axles, gears, suspension parts, and boat props just to name a few.
http://www.merkurxr4ti.com/magnaflux.html
http://www.artsautomotive.com/crackcheck.htm
http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRaci...blockchecks.cfm
If you do an internet search on "block check" or "block crack" you'll find lots of links to various shops and info sites.
Sonic checking is usually done to check the thickness of a part (usually the block or head) to verify uniform thickness and density/strength. Search the web using "sonic testing" for more info.
03-21-2003, 04:50 AM
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Cool......Random do you think from driving my Tibby a couple of blocks with the oil slowly draining out and then the engine locks up,.... could damage our blocks? eek!
[ March 21, 2003, 12:37 PM: Message edited by: Random ]
[ March 21, 2003, 12:37 PM: Message edited by: Random ]
03-21-2003, 05:38 AM
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If the engine locked up, yeah, it probably caused damage.
you'll have to check the rings, all the bearings..etc..etc..etc.
I doubt if it hurt the block, but as long as you have to tear everything apart to check the individual components, you might want to have the block tested as well.
[ March 21, 2003, 01:03 PM: Message edited by: Random ]
you'll have to check the rings, all the bearings..etc..etc..etc.
I doubt if it hurt the block, but as long as you have to tear everything apart to check the individual components, you might want to have the block tested as well.
[ March 21, 2003, 01:03 PM: Message edited by: Random ]
03-23-2003, 02:27 AM
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Yeah,.... I had two bearing fused to the con-rods and two fried o-rings from around the two center pistons. There were some bolts&nuts that held the conrods to the crank and their were bent a little , and got shaved off a little when the crank was spinning, but other than that everything else looks ok.
03-23-2003, 07:29 AM
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if the piston rings fried, you probably will have cylinder wall scoring or glazing in those cylinders. They should at the minimum be rehoned, possibly bored out.