Running Rich
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Cherryville, NC
Vehicle: 03 Hyundai Tiburon
Ok here is what is going on. My car has been running rich ever since I installed my headers. They are import shark. I have a Kore CAI, Import Shark Headers, and MBRP exhaust. Thats the only engine mods I have. I am un-tuned. I am also throwing a code for IAC High input. I replaced the iac still have the code (80 bucks wasted). I was also throwing intake temp codes and TPS codes about a month before the header install. They cleared up but the IAC remained.
Whenever I start my engine wheter it be 20 degrees outside or 80 degrees I have to let my car idle for about 5 min before driving otherwise it provides a very jerky ride. Like imagine having your maf reading air coming in, but the intake isnt fully on the TB, it jumps like crazy. But once the car/block is all warmed up its fine.
Any ideas on what the issue could be?
Whenever I start my engine wheter it be 20 degrees outside or 80 degrees I have to let my car idle for about 5 min before driving otherwise it provides a very jerky ride. Like imagine having your maf reading air coming in, but the intake isnt fully on the TB, it jumps like crazy. But once the car/block is all warmed up its fine.
Any ideas on what the issue could be?
Administrator

Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 12,515
Likes: 2
From: Lacey, WA
Vehicle: Two Accents, Mini, Miata, Van, Outback, and a ZX-6
Have you cleaned your MAF? It sounds a bit like it's having trouble determining how much air is coming into the engine, and the IAC is trying to "fly blind" which would give you a bad idle.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Cherryville, NC
Vehicle: 03 Hyundai Tiburon
Did that, sorry took a little while to get back to you. Thinking I could have a spark plug issue. If I am not getting enough spark that would cause me not to burn all the fuel in the combustion chamber, causeing excess fuel in the sxhaust gases. My a/f ratio is taken from the readings of the o2 sensors correct?
Seems sound enough... but just theorizing.
Seems sound enough... but just theorizing.
Administrator

Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 12,515
Likes: 2
From: Lacey, WA
Vehicle: Two Accents, Mini, Miata, Van, Outback, and a ZX-6
Yeah, the A/F ratio is figured based on the O2 sensor readings. You'll have to get a wideband if you want to know your a/f ratio with any degree of certainty though.
My second guess is that your IAT sensor might be bad. If it's bad it could run rough when it's cold but run okay after the temp underhood comes up enough to operate okay within the default range that the computer assumes for the temperature.
My second guess is that your IAT sensor might be bad. If it's bad it could run rough when it's cold but run okay after the temp underhood comes up enough to operate okay within the default range that the computer assumes for the temperature.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Cherryville, NC
Vehicle: 03 Hyundai Tiburon
MAF has been cleaned and i am not throwing a code for it. I checked both o2s and they are installed right, no codes, wires good. Could be the IAC wiring harness. When I am installing my new intake manifolds I am doing a full spark plug switch to 1 step colder plugs and nology cool wires. Also gonna be looking into a new iac wiring harness. Also gonna verify my tps is good to go, I am installing a bbtb as well so I have to do that anyways. Pretty much gonna be doing a full tune up.



