Engine, Intake, Exhaust Modifications to your Normally Aspirated Hyundai engine. Cold Air Intakes, Spark Plugs/wires, Cat back Exhaust...etc.

Reference For Cylinder Head Work

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Old Sep 16, 2008 | 09:26 PM
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I would like to add as much as possible and have this as a sticky for a good reference on building a head.

There are many things you can do to get power out of the stock head. This goes for Beta 1 or Beta 2. I will list how to increase power as well as make it stronger:

Valves: The choice here would be Ferrea Valves. These are made for more power and heat. Oversized would allow more power but also require machining the the vlave guide for the bigger size. Cost: About $400


Valve Springs: Again Ferrea is the way to go. Thats true on all these pieces actually. These are a dual spring. Allowing for higher revs and they increase strength a lot. Cost: About $325


Retainers and Locators: These are a must along with the springs and valves. The locators are made to handle more power. The Retainers are made of Titanium which of course add strength. Cost: Retainers - $225 Locators - $65

All the above parts can be found at Importperformanceparts.net That was the cheapest place I could find.

Cams. There are a few options out there right now for us. You can get regrinds from stock cams or full replacements. I will dig up prices and links and post them here when I have a little more time.

Machining. This is where it can get very expensive. Port and Polish is something that is talked about a lot. This work can range very greatly in price depending on work done and if a flow bench is used to maximize results. To use oversize valves and do a full port and polish with a flow bench I would guess it would be about a thousand bucks. Some can be done on your own but be very careful not to go into any water passages.

Singh Grooves. They have been talked about a lot but I really dont know about them. I will do some research and post here regarding these.

MadJohn can stop in here and post a little bit about porting the stock heads. I know he knows of the restrictions in it and how to work around them.

*I will try to add more soon as I can find more. I have a tool list to use for doing work yourself and some other stuff. Feel free to add guys and I will add it up here and we can sticky this after we get some good info!
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Old Nov 17, 2008 | 11:52 AM
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Question... Can i do a beta 2 head swap on a beta 1 block?
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Old Nov 17, 2008 | 02:38 PM
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The answer is yes, SEARCH!
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Old Nov 17, 2008 | 09:58 PM
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I have a spare beta head lying around and buddies w/machine shops that can mill this down for extra compression. Porting I'll take care of myself, however, is there a way to replace the HLA's with solid units? Liz and I would like to build a nice NA machine and the redline limit dissuades me from really doing anything more than a basic PNP.
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Old Nov 17, 2008 | 10:42 PM
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The deck is pretty thick. Depending on how far you want to increase compression, you might go as far as 1mm+ off the bottom of the head and be okay.

The Beta II has solid shims instead of HLAs. Not sure if you can convert it to the newer style.

Redline limits can be done away with, if you want to put in the effort.
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Old Nov 20, 2008 | 10:50 AM
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I just want to be sure... my mechanics says the conversion to solid shims is very easy, maybe i'll go that way whit the Beta 1 head plus the angle job...
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Old Nov 20, 2008 | 11:11 AM
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go with beta 2 head. better contronl of lift and less valve surging at the upper end


standard swap here.
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