I have a 2002 Elantra GLS (beta2 motor, 5-speed) and I am planning on doing extensive mods to it in the near future. I am planning on getting a beta2 motor and 5-speed transmission used and rebuilding it myself. Obviously since I am rebuilding it I would prefer to do everything to it while it's torn apart in my basement and one of the things that I really want to do is raise the redline. My plans for doing so are at this time Kspec lightweight crank, Forged con rods, forged 8.5:1 pistons (low compression for turbo), balance and blue print, Kspec hollow turbo tuned cams, port and polish, 550-???cc injectors, Kspec oil pump, a higher flow water pump, reenforce the valves and lifters (try to find or machine better valve retainers), high performance stud kit and a few other misc things. I am planning to run a t3/t4 hyb turbo with CNK piping/intercooler (eventually upgrading to water to air)/BOV, Kspec or Quaife (if I get the money to get in on the group buy) LSD, the fuel pump that CNK distributes (Walboro I think), boost/rpm fuel and ignition controller (most likely CNK's when it's finished)and all the trimmins'. My goal is that I can push at LEAST 450whp running cam2 and neighborhood of 25psi. Yes...I am going for the captain insano horsepower! So my question is for you people A. Do you think that around 8000rpm's is possible out of the beta2 RELIABLY and B. If you have any other suggestions on what I could do to raise the redline on this motor please let me know. I would really appreciate any and all input on this. I really haven't seen a whole lot of people ask about raising the redline so I thought I would be one of the first. Thanks.

 

The beta engine does NOT like to have the redline raised. I you balance and blueprint everything, I wouldn't reccomend going beyond 7500.

If I'm not mistaken, the highest the folks in korea have been able to get the beta to is 8500. At that point it flew apart on the dyno.

If you want to get more RPM out of the beta motor, consider using the 1.8L Rods and crank, rather than the 2.0L rods/crank. The shorter stroke and longer rod are more favorable for high RPM operation, and also more favorable to high RPM power.

 

RUSS!
If your goal is to acheive all your requests above defently get a Bigger Radiator from CNK.There is a group buy going on and if your intrested place your name down as we need a total of 15 people to get it at the rate.
Here is the link
smile.gif smile.gif smile.gif
http://www.hyundaiaftermarket.com/cgi-bin/...c;f=41;t=000022

 

Well 2uniq, I would love to get in on the radiator group buy but unfortunately I do not yet have the money to buy a radiator. The money that I am dumping into my car is coming from a large settlement which I am currently in the proccess of working out (hopefully out of court). After that I will buy damn near everything for my car but until then I unfortunately can't afford crap. I do really appreciate you letting me know about it and if I do get the money in time then I will most definitly get in on the GB. Thanks for your advice Random. I don't really want to destroke my motor. I can't use the 1.8 rods especially because of the insane amount of boost I want to run and I wouldn't be sure about the crank. I would be happy enough to get it up to 7000-7500rpm's if it seems safe to do. So I take it the crank/rods/pistons are the weak end of raising the redline. Some cars will throw timing through the top of the head or down through the block before they throw rods. That's pretty much what I was trying to find out.

 

Russ- I was not talking about STOCK 1.8L rods. I mean forged rods made to the 1.8L specs...

 

So Random, do you think with the forged 1.8 rods and possibly a lightweight OR forged 1.8 crank balanced and blueprinted I might hit 8000-8500rpm's safely and reliably. Given that I have a better oil and water pump? Do you know who sells forged 1.8 rods and if ANYONE sells forged 1.8 or 2.0 cranks. I allready know where to find 2.0 forged rods. One of my main goals is definitly increase my top speed both over all and per gear. I can't find a smaller final gear anywhere so I figure (aside from bigger wheels) redline is pretty much the only other option. If my math is right which I am sure it is, the top speeds per gear with an 8000rpm redline would approx. be as follows
1st 45mph
2nd 75mph
3rd 105mph
4th 142mph
5th 178mph

Now I don't know about anyone else's opinion is on this but doing those speeds in those gears would be F***ING swank.

 

Just in case anyone is wondering, I am not trying to make my car "drag spec" per se. If that were the case then I would probably stick with the 2.0liter crank and rods but thanks to random's advice I am perfectly willing to destroke my engine. What I'm after is more of an all around roadcar. I might suffer a few tenths of a second on the quartermile but I think that being able to do almost 180mph down the interstate justifies losing a small amount of low end torque. My friends and I have a saying. When we hear that a car has say 500whp another will say "How much torque does it have" and then a friend or I will just smile and say "with 500whp, does it matter?"

 

I still wouldn't take the 1.8L spec engine beyond 8000. 8250 if you wanna risk it.

Any rod company will make you 1.8L rods. I'm having mine done through Crower. If you want, email me and maybe we can get a "mini" group buy going on 1.8L rods.

The HP/torque difference between the 1.8L and 2.0L isn't that great in N/A form, and in boosted form, it should be even less. If you plan on going with forged pistions, a 1mm overbore should get you to 1.9L using 1.8L rods/crank.

the stock crank is plenty beefy. No need to go to a forged crank. You could move to a "lightweight" crank if you want to, but to be honest, unless you REALLY want to go for 8500 RPM, there's just no need. The cost/benefit just isn't there.

[ February 20, 2003, 01:31 PM: Message edited by: Random ]

 

I will be very interested in going in on some sort of a group buy and maybe we can rally up quite a few people to do so. Unfortunately I am waiting on a bunch of money so it might be a little while but I WILL keep you posted if my financial situation changes. I would also be interested to hear about what kind of setup you have now and what you'll be doing in the future.

 

The rods will probably go for around $675USD, give or take. That's about what I spent on my 2.0L rods, and they treat them as "custom" just like your 1.8L parts would be.

I have to agree with Random on both counts: the 1.8L will rev better, and the difference in power between the two is almost non-existant in the grand scheme of things. Hell, with the lesser sidewall wear from the lower rod angle involved, it's likely that your motor will live just that much longer as well given the forged rods.

I still would really like to see a high winding 1.8L with some boost under it. Should be fun