P&p Im And More....
02-19-2009, 08:10 PM
#1
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Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon
Last night 01steve (big thanks to him) and I installed a P&P IM that we had finished a couple days before, BBTB that I had bought from Dennist not too long ago, Outlaw Engineering Spacers, and performed a TB coolant bypass. Sorry for the quality of the pics but I'm too poor for a digital camera lol.
P&P IM
BBTB
Didn't get a chance to take a pic of the spacers since we were trying to get this all done before it got too late and do you really need a pic of the bypass mod... nana.gif lol.
When we took the car for the initial test drive (didn't reset the ECU) I wasn't really enjoying it too much. The gas peddle was way stiffer and nothing was really feeling right, however, when I shot off from a light I was able to chirp the tires soooo that can only be a good thing on my autotragic lol, but still drove home slightly disappointed.
Anyways, this morning I decided to check my fluid levels and made sure everything was attached right and well ended up taking it out for a spin out around where I live.... The ECU must of have reset itself because, all I can say is jesus crist this car is moving now lol. Much more torque than before, and over all power.... plus the intake is louder fing02.gif Before at 3k I would have a nice increase in power, but after all this my car is a beast at that range. OOOOOOO and to top it off I guess since we had to tinker with the throttle cables or for I don't know what reason, my auto is now easier to shift down.... overall this turned out to be an amazing night of modding lol.
P&P IM
BBTB
Didn't get a chance to take a pic of the spacers since we were trying to get this all done before it got too late and do you really need a pic of the bypass mod... nana.gif lol.
When we took the car for the initial test drive (didn't reset the ECU) I wasn't really enjoying it too much. The gas peddle was way stiffer and nothing was really feeling right, however, when I shot off from a light I was able to chirp the tires soooo that can only be a good thing on my autotragic lol, but still drove home slightly disappointed.
Anyways, this morning I decided to check my fluid levels and made sure everything was attached right and well ended up taking it out for a spin out around where I live.... The ECU must of have reset itself because, all I can say is jesus crist this car is moving now lol. Much more torque than before, and over all power.... plus the intake is louder fing02.gif Before at 3k I would have a nice increase in power, but after all this my car is a beast at that range. OOOOOOO and to top it off I guess since we had to tinker with the throttle cables or for I don't know what reason, my auto is now easier to shift down.... overall this turned out to be an amazing night of modding lol.
02-19-2009, 08:23 PM
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Nice P&P job! I love the extra power from it too fing02.gif Did you get the TB side bored out too?
How long did it take you to install?
How long did it take you to install?
02-19-2009, 08:30 PM
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Thanks. Yep got the TB side as well. It took us about 2 to 2.5 hours to install and test out. Could of have been a little quicker but I'm a big time noob so Steve was teaching me most of the time lol.
02-19-2009, 08:34 PM
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nice, im glad to know it had some effect. i have an auto and im getting a ported powdercoated IM and a BBTB from my friends part out.
02-19-2009, 10:05 PM
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dfferent manifold, different tb
that's the reaso nwhy you need to re-adjust the wires ;-)
glad you're happy with the mods ;-)
that's the reaso nwhy you need to re-adjust the wires ;-)
glad you're happy with the mods ;-)
02-19-2009, 10:19 PM
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^^^ How should I go about adjusting them, by the nuts on the cable? To be honest I've already gotten used to how it is right now and kind of like it, but it would be nice to know for future reference.
02-20-2009, 08:50 AM
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Something for would-be DIY'ers to consider -- as odd as you might initially think it seems, you don't want perfectly smooth transitions from TB to manifold, and manifold runners to head. You want each of these to have a very slight "step down" as the air travels into the engine.
The concept here is flow reversion, and controlling it can directly affect both horsepower and engine response.
If air has a perfectly smooth path, you're allowing it to most easily flow in both directions. Thus, as the valves open and close, or as the throttleplate opens and closes, the gasses in your intake manifold have no problem reversing course. However, if at every stage along the intake leave a small "lip", so that the output is slightly smaller than the input at each step, you still leave the air plenty of "smoothness" to get in, however you make it's path back harder.
Stupidly simple diagram:
The concept here is flow reversion, and controlling it can directly affect both horsepower and engine response.
If air has a perfectly smooth path, you're allowing it to most easily flow in both directions. Thus, as the valves open and close, or as the throttleplate opens and closes, the gasses in your intake manifold have no problem reversing course. However, if at every stage along the intake leave a small "lip", so that the output is slightly smaller than the input at each step, you still leave the air plenty of "smoothness" to get in, however you make it's path back harder.
Stupidly simple diagram:
CODE
--------------------
The left side of this diagram is the cylinder head, for example, and the right side is your intake manifold. Notice the direction of air travel under normal circumstances. Now when the valve slams shut, a localized high-pressure cell will immediately develop above the valve back, and air will want to reverse course and flow up the manifold. If you leave a slight "step", the reversal is slowed, which is less air mass that must be reversed again when the valve reopens.
The same concept works for the junction at your throttlebody, and with the intake plumbing itself. It's the same basic working principles that dictate you use a < shape for an intercooler ducting shrowd versus a > shape.
Example of bad intercooler ducting
Example of good intercooler ducting
The reason, again, is flow reversion. You want to force the air to follow your path; making it as-easy or easier to go backwards is counter-productive. Now, flow reversion steps do have some negative effects on laminar flow, especially if you go crazy with it. So you don't need a huge step to be effective, just enough to be measurable.
The left side of this diagram is the cylinder head, for example, and the right side is your intake manifold. Notice the direction of air travel under normal circumstances. Now when the valve slams shut, a localized high-pressure cell will immediately develop above the valve back, and air will want to reverse course and flow up the manifold. If you leave a slight "step", the reversal is slowed, which is less air mass that must be reversed again when the valve reopens.
The same concept works for the junction at your throttlebody, and with the intake plumbing itself. It's the same basic working principles that dictate you use a < shape for an intercooler ducting shrowd versus a > shape.
Example of bad intercooler ducting
CODE
\
\_ _
| |
=> Air | |
_|_|
/
/
\_ _
| |
=> Air | |
_|_|
/
/
Example of good intercooler ducting
CODE
__ _
/ | |
| |
=> Air | |
| |
\__|_|
/ | |
| |
=> Air | |
| |
\__|_|
The reason, again, is flow reversion. You want to force the air to follow your path; making it as-easy or easier to go backwards is counter-productive. Now, flow reversion steps do have some negative effects on laminar flow, especially if you go crazy with it. So you don't need a huge step to be effective, just enough to be measurable.
02-23-2009, 09:16 PM
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To adjuts the TB cables
you simply use the nuts like you said
you need to make them just " tight"but leave a small play in them
if you don't leave enough play you might be getting idle problems
you simply use the nuts like you said
you need to make them just " tight"but leave a small play in them
if you don't leave enough play you might be getting idle problems