Only Clutch Disc Change
11-25-2006, 05:05 PM
#13
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lol i know about it i did that break in period on that current clutch about like 500 miles 02.gif any other ideas maybe i'm pressing clutch pedal too many times smile.gif
for example when you stopping at traffic light and you going in 3rd gear once you about to stop do you have to press the clutch and drop gear into neutral and then release clutch ?
dunno maybe it's just something wrong with clutch disk cause i was racing that civic and he's like pressed the gas all the was and was holdin it until green light , his engine was revving back after it reaches red points and then he dropped it :@ i never did it :@ after like couples times when i'm gonna do that clutch with fly apart from tranny lol dunno guys and plus ******ing throwout bearing only cost 50$ drillsergeant.gif
for example when you stopping at traffic light and you going in 3rd gear once you about to stop do you have to press the clutch and drop gear into neutral and then release clutch ?
dunno maybe it's just something wrong with clutch disk cause i was racing that civic and he's like pressed the gas all the was and was holdin it until green light , his engine was revving back after it reaches red points and then he dropped it :@ i never did it :@ after like couples times when i'm gonna do that clutch with fly apart from tranny lol dunno guys and plus ******ing throwout bearing only cost 50$ drillsergeant.gif
11-28-2006, 07:57 AM
#14
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oh man, i read this thread and thought, this guy sounds like hes crying as hes writing this, so my man, im a sucker for pity, so I will give you a few tips on how to use your clutch.
your stage 3 XTD, 6 puc is most likely going to wear out in about 20,000 miles if you drive alot in traffic, or always stopping at lights.
your clutch is probably like my 4 puc from valeo, i had to rev to 2500 to get going from a stop, even if i was just pulling away nice and easy.
very grippy clutch.
so i put on a stock disc, with my 2100 pound valeo clutch, and I could finally take off at a more reasonable 1000 to 1500 RPM with no shudder or chatter.
try a stock disc.
with the clamping pressure from the aftermarket clutch on a stock disc you will still have the acceleration, and it will most likely last you 40,000 miles.
tips on clutching:
-when stopped at a light waiting for it to turn green, DO NOT have the car in gear, with the clutch pedal pressed in. This is called "riding the clutch" it will wear your clutch away faster.
-remember if you downshift through every gear every time you slow down to stop at a light, you are using your clutch twice as fast. If you dont have to downshift, just keep the car in gear as you brake to a stop and clutch in only when you are about to stop as the RPMS reach about 1000, then take it out of gear and relax and wait for the green.
-when your crusing in any gear, make sure your foot is completely off the pedal as you drive, dont rest your foot on the pedal, and even slight pressure can cause the clutch to slip unoticabely at higher RPMs. rest your foot on the dead pedal.
-as far as dragging, you are at your own mercy there, if you want to burn out, you have to dump the clutch at 4000, if you want to launch, I like 2200 to 2500, to get a slight chirp out of the tires with no wheel spin or tire hop, but in any case, your burning clutch like mad !!
good luck man, and stop crying, LOL, just kidding
your stage 3 XTD, 6 puc is most likely going to wear out in about 20,000 miles if you drive alot in traffic, or always stopping at lights.
your clutch is probably like my 4 puc from valeo, i had to rev to 2500 to get going from a stop, even if i was just pulling away nice and easy.
very grippy clutch.
so i put on a stock disc, with my 2100 pound valeo clutch, and I could finally take off at a more reasonable 1000 to 1500 RPM with no shudder or chatter.
try a stock disc.
with the clamping pressure from the aftermarket clutch on a stock disc you will still have the acceleration, and it will most likely last you 40,000 miles.
tips on clutching:
-when stopped at a light waiting for it to turn green, DO NOT have the car in gear, with the clutch pedal pressed in. This is called "riding the clutch" it will wear your clutch away faster.
-remember if you downshift through every gear every time you slow down to stop at a light, you are using your clutch twice as fast. If you dont have to downshift, just keep the car in gear as you brake to a stop and clutch in only when you are about to stop as the RPMS reach about 1000, then take it out of gear and relax and wait for the green.
-when your crusing in any gear, make sure your foot is completely off the pedal as you drive, dont rest your foot on the pedal, and even slight pressure can cause the clutch to slip unoticabely at higher RPMs. rest your foot on the dead pedal.
-as far as dragging, you are at your own mercy there, if you want to burn out, you have to dump the clutch at 4000, if you want to launch, I like 2200 to 2500, to get a slight chirp out of the tires with no wheel spin or tire hop, but in any case, your burning clutch like mad !!
good luck man, and stop crying, LOL, just kidding
11-28-2006, 08:14 AM
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Uh oh... I thought I knew most terminology and acronyms, but apparently not. What in the world is CD and PP and TOB? PP is pressure plate? CD is clutch disc? How about TOB?
Sorry for being OT, but I'm a little confused...
Sorry for being OT, but I'm a little confused...
11-28-2006, 02:02 PM
#17
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It is definatly the six puck disc.. they are not designed for day to day driving. Even driven aggressivly (I did not smoke the tyres from every stop) and downshifting all the time.. I managed to get 137,000 miles out of clutch before the car was totalled in an accident... and that was the stock clutch, installed back in 1999.
If you must know the truth, dropping the clutch only wears it a fraction of the amount a long slip does. While it is quite a shock load to rev the engine high and then drop the clutch (or sidestep the pedal) it does not build up the heat that slipping the clutch does.
If you do insist on downshifting all the time.. learn to rev match the shift... with the engine already spinning the same speed as the input shaft on the trans, there is little to know slippage, the only wear then would be the throw out bearing.
If you must know the truth, dropping the clutch only wears it a fraction of the amount a long slip does. While it is quite a shock load to rev the engine high and then drop the clutch (or sidestep the pedal) it does not build up the heat that slipping the clutch does.
If you do insist on downshifting all the time.. learn to rev match the shift... with the engine already spinning the same speed as the input shaft on the trans, there is little to know slippage, the only wear then would be the throw out bearing.
11-29-2006, 07:52 PM
#18
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ok thanks guys for tutors smile.gif i dropped my tranny at my work and notice that my clutch disk (SOMEHOW) got oil in well prolly cause i had bad valve leak ( crack in it) but replaced valve , clutch and everything is good for now smile.gif now break in period 02.gif already spin tires few times :@ had to cool.gif this bastard on maxima was looking like he is cool with fiber glass hood smile.gif heeh smoked w/e thanks guys for help
12-08-2006, 01:16 PM
#20
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my feelings on 500 mile break-in periods are that they serve the purpose to releive the manufacturer of blame. Seriously, how can you not do a heavy acelleration in 500 miles city driving pulling out of parking spaces and what not? And what if those 500 miles are highway on a cross country trip?