REDZMAN

Okay guys, I said I'd put up a thread about it, but I didn't really do a DIY so it's going here.

First off, I swapped my pulleys finally for the full Jspeed set, Crank/PowerSteering/Waterpump.

You CAN still get these kinds of pulleys from Kspec.com and Arkspeedracing.com , I'm just not sure if ARK's have the same belt patterns, but I'm betting they are identical to the Jspeed.

You have 3 belts you need to replace if you do the full pulley swap.

1. The one on the BACK of the crank goes from the Crank Pulley (Underdrive, so it's going to be a smaller belt) to the AC pulley. These pulleys should be RIBBED. The easiest way to install this belt for ME and my size of belt was to fully loosen the tensioner pulley and then REMOVE the pulley itself. Replace the belt, ensure it's in the proper place and seated, then replace the tensioner pulley, torque it down, and tension the belt. A slightly bigger belt will go on easier, but will take longer to tension and this is the only size I could find bigger than my first try, the next size up was 33 inches.

Belt = Goodyear Gatorback 4040320 4PK0815 (32.0 Inch Belt). I purchased it at Checker Autoparts for $11.99.

2. The FRONT Crank Pulley belt is the one that goes to your water pump MAIN pulley and to the alternator pulley. These pulleys should all be RIBBED also. Easiest way to install THIS belt is to loosen the alternator adjustment bolt and then move it out of the way, pushing the alternator towards the engine (There are 2 small 12MM bolts on the alternator holding it to the block and the adjustment bolt to the bracket, you need to loosen these also as in the Crank Pulley DIY). The belt is very easy to replace, just put the new one on, pull the alternator tight, replace the adjustment bolt in it's cradle, and tighten to tension the belt. Then tighten the other 2 mounting bolts.

Belt = Goodyear Gatorback 4040335 4PK0850 (33.5 Inch Belt) I purchased it at Checker Autoparts for $12.99

3. The Power Steering to waterpump SUB PULLEY.

Issue #1 - Hyundai pulleys. It seems that Hyundai put whatever pulley set on the RD's as they had handy when it came time. Most RD2's seem to have a SPLINED V-Belt Powersteering pulley. This means that the center hole that goes on the Power Steering shaft is SPLINED, or has a star pattern on it. Unsplined would be SMOOTH, and it seems that most RD1's have a SMOOTH center hole/shaft. Beta 2 engines have SPLINED pulleys.

Issue #2 - Ribbed versus V Belt. Beta 2 engines have a ribbed PS belt, and so therefore the water sub pulley (the pulley that drives the PS pulley), is also ribbed. Beta 1's seem to be almost completely V Belt, on this set of pulleys. Don't understand the difference? Click on the below picture and you'll see the difference between ribbed and V Belt pulleys.



Issue #3 - Most of the pulley kits out there (OBX, ARK, Jspeed) do not mention this problem and don't mention if they are splined, smooth, Vbelt, or Ribbed. We will get a complete list going here of what pulley sets have what. The other pulleys seem to have been done right all around.

OBX = SMOOTH center hole, V Belt Pulley
Jspeed = Splined Center Hole, Ribbed Belt Pulley
Ark = ????

So, before you do this mod you need to go out to your car, look at the belt that drives your PS Pulley, and see what kind it is. Then remove the center nut that holds the PS Pulley on, and remove the pulley to CONFIRM that it is splined or smooth. Then buy the APPROPRIATE PULLEY SET!!!

Issue #4 - You buy a pulley set that matches your splined shaft, but it's a ribbed belt. Your OEM setup is a V Belt. How do you install this? EASY! Go to Kspec.com, your local dealer, or stcharlesauto.com (Or junkyard if they allow you to remove parts from engines), and get the small pulley that sits on the BACK of the water pump pulley, from a 2002 and up Elantra or a 2003 and up Tiburon with a beta engine.

Part # = 25226-23501 - Pulley - Power St.

You'll notice it's identical to your OEM pulley, except it's ribbed instead of V Belt. The proper belt to put on for this combo is...

Belt = Goodyear Gatorback 4030267 3PK0680 (26.7 Inch belt, the OEM PS belt from a the beta 2 engine will also work fine), cost me $8.99 at Checker Autoparts.


Note: If you are swapping a Vbelt pulley for a Vbelt pulley for Power Steering, you don't need to change the belt, the same one should still work. If you try the same belt sizes as I did and have issues, you can swap them for slightly different sizes by going back to the parts store and asking for the size you want.


Weights of pulleys. (Pounds)

OEM

Crank = 4.00
PS = .65
Waterpump Combo = 1.60
^^^
This is the OEM sub pulley & Waterpump pulley.

Jspeed

Crank = .85
PS = .35
Waterpump combo = 1.05
^^^
This is the new Beta 2 sub pulley with the Jspeed waterpump pulley.

Differences

Crank = -3.15
PS = - .30
Waterpump Combo = -.55

For a total savings of 4 pounds of rotational weight.



Hints.

1. Loosen the tensioner pulley FULLY before attempting to install the AC to Crank belt. If it won't go on, remove the pulley, install the belt, then reinstall the tensioner pulley.

2. Waterpump pulley. This one is a ROYAL PITA to try to do in place. Try the following to help give you more space and save you hours of trouble.

a. Remove the center bolt from the passenger side engine mount.
b. With car raised in the air and secure in place with wheel chocks and on stands, remove one NUT and one BOLT that hold the transmission mounts onto the center cross brace. This brace is the large one that runs front to back in the center of the car parallel with the exhaust downpipe.
c. With a block of wood on your hydraulic jack, carefully and slowly jack the engine up (DO NOT USE THE OILPAN!!!). I put the jack with wood under the front end of the exhaust downpipe and went slow. I was able to jack the engine up about 2 inches which pivots the waterpump pulley side to a much more favorable angle.
d. Remove 4 10MM bolts by using a combination wrench and having someone turn the pulley using the OLD belt. We have a small video of this we will post soon, it made this VERY easy and quick. Once the bolts are loose, remove by hand.

^^^
Click to enlarge


^^^
Video

e. Reinstall in the same manner, and make sure all bolts are replaced and torqued down.

3. Fully tension all belts, but don't overtighten. Approximately 1/4 inch of play should be left in the belts when tight. Make sure to take the tools you will need to RETENSION the belts with you for the first month after this install in case one loosens enough that you need to tighten them back up.

4. On the belts. I couldn't track down exactly what was needed so I went to Checker Autoparts and asked them for the 3 belts for a 2004 Hyundai Elantra. The ONLY belt I had to swap for a smaller one was the 32 inch belt, so the other 2 belts worked perfectly. The old AC belt then would probably work fine on the Waterpump/Alternator side, as it technicaly did this time.


Results?

As others have mentioned that have done this, the idling is now so smooth and quiet, the engine sounds like it's not even running. The throttle response is definately increased, and above 3500 RPM's, the engine races much faster to redline. The Alternator is now underdriven a bit, but no problems have arose. I'm going to be installing a 120amp Alternator soon so I'm not overly worried about it. The AC is also underdriven now, but with my FAL 220 fans, I noticed no drop in cooling capacity. This is one more modification that makes this car feel so much more solid.

Here is a pic of the Crank Pulley installed.


Here is a nice set of pics of the other 2 pulleys installed, with belts.




Okay, pics and help video posted!

funkypc

Just checked the OBX pulley on ebay. Looks like it is splined to. Anyways, I assume the splined pulleys should all fit on the nonsplined shafts?
They also have the ARK pulleys on ebay with pics - they looked splined but I'm not 100% sure those were actual pictures.

REDZMAN

The pics of the Ark ones ARE splined, but those could be "stock" pics. I'll contact them to find out.

As for the OBX, these we KNOW are NOT splined. I had a set here.

'treezy

I see only one problem..

When you suggest those who have early RD2's and RD1's (i.e. the SMOOTH PS pulley & inner water pump pulley / and V-belts) to go out and buy 2002 or newer Ribbed Pulley from a junkyard, kspec, etc. (in case they get a pulley set with a ribbed PS pulley)...

You may have to get a 2002 or newer WATER PUMP (and gasket) to go along with that 2002 or newer inner water pump pulley. The reason; the little knob (stud) that the water pump pulley sits on to align all four holesplaced differently on beta1's and beta2's. The beta 2's have a knob that is extended from the inner circle of the water pump (and a corresponding holes on the pulley for them to sit on)...

and the beta 1's have a water pump with a seperate knob outside from the inner circle and the pulley have a small hole in them that corresponds to the water pump knob's location.


Sorry for no pictures, I can't even imagine drawing it in paint.
I guess if you had to you could drill the new pulley you got so that they fit over the water pump you have (if they are not corresponding in knobs)...

REDZMAN

I know what you are talking about, I think it'd be a LOT easier just to drill new holes or file a hole for the nub than replace the waterpump.

x2stpsfrmnowhere

I have an ARK PS pulley for the RD2, and it is splined in the center with a v-belt track.

REDZMAN

Awesome, thanks for the info.

This means that those of you with a SPLINED Power Steering Pump can get that kit and put it on with no extra waterpump sub pulley.

I think Iv'e found theribbed belts to be quieter though.

01tibby

i bought all 3 obx pulleys off ebay and my power steering pulley was DEFINATELY splined. its on right now and fit perfectly. thats the only pulley i have put on thus far. i recorded a bunch of weights and stuff that i will post up here when i swap out the other ones.

REDZMAN

Hmm, that's strange.

I guess OBX did a run of splined and unsplined?

Or was the set you got for a newer tib?

Their site is down so I can't see what exactly they made them for. Do you have the OBX part #?

01tibby

i purchased the set for the 97-01 tib, even though we KNOW that the rd1 and rd2 have different setups. found what i think was a part number written on a blank stick on label:

67-1707-1B