New Seco Brand Clutch?!?
#1
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I just got this clutch kit in today. I replaced my clutch a week ago with an OEM and we messed up, so I had to get this one.
It's going in sometime in the next two weeks, whenever I get a chance. I just changed out my clutch with a valeo, but my buddy stuck the TOB on the pressure plate when we were installing it instead of on the forks. It took a 4ft prybar, big-assed screw driver and a pair of plyers to get the sucker off. When we pulled it off we must have damaged a pressure plate spline. The pedal now vibrates like mad. So we put in alot of work and money into a new clutch that is worse then the glazed clutch I had before..
I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with SECO clutches. I've used valeos in the past. This one is different.
it's got 4 bushings and 2 springs rather then Valeo's 4 springs and no bushings.
Any ideas on how the bushings and springs are going to effect engaugement?
No ideas huh?
It's going in sometime in the next two weeks, whenever I get a chance. I just changed out my clutch with a valeo, but my buddy stuck the TOB on the pressure plate when we were installing it instead of on the forks. It took a 4ft prybar, big-assed screw driver and a pair of plyers to get the sucker off. When we pulled it off we must have damaged a pressure plate spline. The pedal now vibrates like mad. So we put in alot of work and money into a new clutch that is worse then the glazed clutch I had before..
I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with SECO clutches. I've used valeos in the past. This one is different.
it's got 4 bushings and 2 springs rather then Valeo's 4 springs and no bushings.
Any ideas on how the bushings and springs are going to effect engaugement?
No ideas huh?
#3
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why, does it suck or something? Any springs at all in that stage?
I really don't have much of a clue in the matter.... I'm assuming that the 4 bushings will give a more positive, less bouncy engaugement when I release the clutch as opposed to the valeo 4 spring clutch pad.. Is that a good assumption?
I really don't have much of a clue in the matter.... I'm assuming that the 4 bushings will give a more positive, less bouncy engaugement when I release the clutch as opposed to the valeo 4 spring clutch pad.. Is that a good assumption?
#4
BTW, you don't have to pry the TOB with so much force. Using snap ring pliers, have somebody hold the snap ring open. Then you have to push on the wave washer with a flat head screwdriver. Then pry gently to get the TOB off. We put the pressure plate in a vice. Took a little time and a little finesse, but it is not that hard. The wave washer bent a little, but it gets reformed when you put the clutch together. Directions were found in a Shop Manual.
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umm did you get your's from gripforce on ebay-... i just did mine w/ a findanza flywheel and i feel an occasional slip (when i really start to step on it) with the seco clutch! possible bad product??? i don't have any vibration though-... did you torque everything to spec?
#6
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Actually, i'm running a Valeo right now. I just changed out my clutch with an OEM a couple of weeks ago. So i ordered a new "OEM" clutch and it looks different then the last one, and is made by a different company. I'm thinking the difference in manufacturing will lead to a less bouncy engaugement.
The vibration was caused by damage caused to the splines of the clutch. It was not noticable until 50 miles after, but it's getting worse. So I have a used OEM flywheel with 20,000 miles ready for resurfacing and clutch ready for install when I get a chance.
Did you resurface your flywheel when you changed your clutch? Alot of people dont. I noticed mine was burned when I changed my clutch the last time, but I could not remove it and get it to a shop for machining because of time restraints. I know my clutch is still slipping just like it was before because of a glazed flywheel.
Keep in mind though, the whole point of a clutch is to slip. I like a comfortable ride which is why I chose a OEM clutch. There is less slipping as you go through the stages of clutch, but more effort and jerkeyness.
The vibration was caused by damage caused to the splines of the clutch. It was not noticable until 50 miles after, but it's getting worse. So I have a used OEM flywheel with 20,000 miles ready for resurfacing and clutch ready for install when I get a chance.
Did you resurface your flywheel when you changed your clutch? Alot of people dont. I noticed mine was burned when I changed my clutch the last time, but I could not remove it and get it to a shop for machining because of time restraints. I know my clutch is still slipping just like it was before because of a glazed flywheel.
Keep in mind though, the whole point of a clutch is to slip. I like a comfortable ride which is why I chose a OEM clutch. There is less slipping as you go through the stages of clutch, but more effort and jerkeyness.
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no i didn't resrurface my flywheel because i got a brand new findanza. i believe my clutch kit was mostly valeo BUT the disc was SECO. after 500 lightly driven miles, my seco is slipping.
has anyone else used the seco clutch disk?
has anyone else used the seco clutch disk?
#8
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Dang. That's not what I want to hear. That's the same setup I have. If this is common to the SECO clutch, then I'll start a campaign against them after I install/break-in. I might need your help to get them to make their clutches better.
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QUOTE (01steve @ Jun 8 2007, 03:29 PM)
umm did you get your's from gripforce on ebay-... i just did mine w/ a findanza flywheel and i feel an occasional slip (when i really start to step on it) with the seco clutch! possible bad product??? i don't have any vibration though-... did you torque everything to spec?
i got a gripforce of ebay, what stage did you get? my stage 3 lasted about 8 months, but it was initially installed wrong so i don't blame gripforce at all. the disk seemed really thin to begin with though, thinner than the stock one i was replacing. maybe it's suppose to be that way?
take your time installing it, and clean off the flywheel with brake cleaner before you install the clutch. i'v noticed that the pull type clutch are much more sensitive than push ones.
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ehhh so i'm kinda a dummy-... possibly.
i re-bleed my clutch and it hasn't slipped (that i've noticed) since. and i've been kinda pushing it to do what i want so-... i think you'll be alright (as long as you give it a good bloodeding!!!).
i re-bleed my clutch and it hasn't slipped (that i've noticed) since. and i've been kinda pushing it to do what i want so-... i think you'll be alright (as long as you give it a good bloodeding!!!).