Need Some Advice On Clutch
11-03-2008, 07:04 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 205
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vehicle: 1997 Hyundai Tiburon
Do you guys recommend a stage 1 or 2 clutch kit (with lightweight flywheel) for basic n/a tuning?
Or will another oem clutch hold the little more power just fine?
I need to replace my stock clutch, is it worth the effort to replace it with an uprated clutch?
Or will another oem clutch hold the little more power just fine?
I need to replace my stock clutch, is it worth the effort to replace it with an uprated clutch?
11-03-2008, 07:20 AM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Boston
Posts: 1,932
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vehicle: 2006 Pontiac GTO
The "effort" is to drop the tranny and replace the clutch lol Since you are doing this anyway, I'd get a better clutch.
But like bullfrog said, it all depends on how much power you are going to make though.
But like bullfrog said, it all depends on how much power you are going to make though.
11-03-2008, 07:28 AM
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 205
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vehicle: 1997 Hyundai Tiburon
Well, a uprated clutch costs a little more (mostly because of shipping it to holland).. stock clutch costs about 140-150 Euro (190-200 usd).
Im not going to make any big power, not going the boost way for the coming 6 months..
mods are most likely going to be meganheaders/kxf cams/cai/exhaust..
Im not going to make any big power, not going the boost way for the coming 6 months..
mods are most likely going to be meganheaders/kxf cams/cai/exhaust..
11-03-2008, 08:29 AM
#5
Moderator
First, a clutch stage means absolutely nothing to the average consumer. It just means that specific company made a clutch, then upgraded the material and the clamping force from there. It dosn't mean that a stage 1 is the same as your stock clutch.
From my experience, I like the SECO stock replacement clutch. It's comparable in price, but it has copper threads instead of the kevlar or whatever is in our stock organic. The clutch does not hold more then stock, but if you burn it up, you can undo the damage by normal driving. It also has a firmer feeling engagement.
I'm hearing that the ultimate clutch for our cars is the ACT clutch.
I just purchased a XTD/autocom stage 3 clutch. From what I hear, it's the best bang for the buck. Most people say they wish they had gone with a stage 3 instead of stage 2 with XTD.
Read the clutch review thread stickied in this forum, you can get alot of info on clutches for our cars.
http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtopic=24855
From my experience, I like the SECO stock replacement clutch. It's comparable in price, but it has copper threads instead of the kevlar or whatever is in our stock organic. The clutch does not hold more then stock, but if you burn it up, you can undo the damage by normal driving. It also has a firmer feeling engagement.
I'm hearing that the ultimate clutch for our cars is the ACT clutch.
I just purchased a XTD/autocom stage 3 clutch. From what I hear, it's the best bang for the buck. Most people say they wish they had gone with a stage 3 instead of stage 2 with XTD.
Read the clutch review thread stickied in this forum, you can get alot of info on clutches for our cars.
http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtopic=24855
11-03-2008, 08:32 AM
#6
Super Moderator
Unless you are racing, a stock replacement will hold for a long time. It will also be cheaper if you are planning to go forced-induction soon and don't want to 'waste' the money you spent on this clutch.
