drummer_dave

Hello all,

So... i started my 97 tib (2.0L) up the other day and it was running rough, low rpm (800) at idle and when i accelerated it lagged quite a bit and took about twice as long to get up to speed, once it was going over 30Km/h and reving at 2000rpm it all seemed fine. but then the CEL light started flashing so i took it to Auto Zone to get it scanned and to no surprise i got a P0302, cylinder 2 misfire. so i drove it home 5minutes and came directly to this site and started looking. It seems this is not a new problem, and i found some others with my dilemma. I printed of the flow chart diagram to check (off of hmaservice.com) and followed it. i changed my plugs (no difference, however cyl 2 plug did look worse then the others) did the continuity (resistance) checks on the ignition coil (primary and secondary) and the injectors, all seemed fine. I am thinking my next step is to pull the injectors and test/swap them to see if the code follows the injector or stays in the cylinder. I highly doubt that the ECU needs changing i think thats kinda of a last call hail marry solution. does anybody have any other ideas to check? if not can someone lead/explain to me how to bleed the fuel from the injectors and how to take them out (i wont be able to look at till tomorrow due to the fact i have to do all of this in my parking lot at my apartment. thank you for you time and help.

regards

Dave

REDZMAN

Looks like you've tried everything but the plug wires.

When's the last time you changed those?

'treezy

That is what it is supposed to be (850rpm).

Did you look at the wires (test THEIR resistance) when changing the plugs?

and I've never "bled" the injectors/fuel rail when disconnecting. I just put out my cigarette and let it drip all over the apartment parking lot... fvck it.

and goddamit, WHO is Miss. Fire?

drummer_dave

i just bought the car 2 months ago it has 160 000 km so not sure last time, i did the resistance measurements on them and they we all under 4000 ohms / foot. probably need changing anyways. i guess i should try that before i start pulling stuff apart

btw how bad is it really if i drive the car back and forth from work for the next few days (5 minute city drive) with this missfire. i know the catalytic converter will probably go (but who needs one of those anyways???)

i just really dont like taking my car into hyundai because last time i went i scanned the car before i went in and it had 2 codes, when they scanned it had 9 errors and they tried telling me it needed a new o2 sensor (strangely enough the exact one i replaced 2 days earlier and did not register an error on auto zones $2000 reader.

DTN

Autozone's $2,000 reader? WTF?!? I thought they only had a $400 reader. Did they start selling laptop models?


Anyways, i changed out the spark plugs once with "pre-gapped" plugs, it turned out that they were impropperly gapped and were the cause of my problems. I didn't notice it right away, it took about a month.

'treezy

just bought the car two months ago does not mean everything on the car was new 2 months ago. Although it might have looked that way, remember that.

And EACH spark plug wire will have it's own resistance standards (since each one is a different length). HMA has the spec's re-check them.

..Hell, just replace them.

Is this misfire audible? Can you hear the engine not firing one cylinder.

You have to keep in mind you are running on 75% power. If you continue to drive you cannot drive like you have 100% power (which isn't much to begin with..) No passing, revving, accelerating whatsoever.

I wouldn't suggest it myself, but I did this in my car for a week (and it was just plug wires that needed replacement) and nothing bad came of it.. (but "do as I say not as I do".. riight)

drummer_dave

sorry that was meant to be an exaggeration!

do you know the gap distance of hand??? ill check that tonight

REDZMAN

Replace the damned wires and do regular maintenance on your car. The cat is there for a reason, we like to breathe.

drummer_dave

yes i understand that, what i meant is that i am not sure how long its been since its been changed, so i assume its been a while. when i bought it i was more concerned with changing the timing/water pump/ struts etc... i guess i cant remember everything. to be honest i do not have much experience with fixing cars i usually just helped my dad. but now im on my own with not alot of money so i figure if you guys out there can do it, i can too it just may take me 3 times as long. and dont worry if i dont feel comfortable with the problem i will take it in so i dont mess it up more.



well you were right Red, I went out and bought the wires and after a 5 minute swap the car runs good again. I guess i am a little surprised that even with the proper resistance measurement of the wire, it still didnt work. Maybe it wasnt making a full connection, but then what do i know.... i am just happy its fixed. Thank you everyone for your input, i hope i can return the favor someday

Regards


Dave

BlizagaXx

^^

1.) Most expensive reader AZ has is like $230
2.) Always check easy and cheap stuff first man... No need in going into resistance and bleeding your fuel rail, checking your flux capacitor output in gigawatts and all man... Check the obvious lol

There is a reason when we give you the whole spiel about plugs and wires. In our handy little book it gives us most COMMON and neglected issues that are the usual easy fix

P0300-p0310 (or however many it goes to) are all general misfires. This is the order of command
1,) Ignition problem, check plugs
2.) check wires
3.) check coil
4.) fuel injectors
5.) Vacuum leak

Ask to see the book next time, it seriously has a list, in order, of what we are supposed to say. lmao