Maybe I'm crazy...
True, yeah, I was thinking about that, but the Tib is kinda expected to be fast. I'd rather an insanely high powered Accent. Better shock value.
Also, as a side note, how does the torque compare to the hp when you start approaching 400-600 hp with the beta motor? I'd figure that setup to require a huge turbo and massive work, so don't shoot me down just because it will cost money! I am just testing for options here.
Thanks all,
Mav
Also, as a side note, how does the torque compare to the hp when you start approaching 400-600 hp with the beta motor? I'd figure that setup to require a huge turbo and massive work, so don't shoot me down just because it will cost money! I am just testing for options here.
Thanks all,
Mav
For about $10K, you can put together a 400WHP BETA block, a transmission that can deal with it, a turbo to run it, a standalone computer to tune it right and enough gizmos to make you happy.
300WHP in an Accent would be enough to chase down (and likely pass) a stock Z06 Vette on the highway -- you don't need massive power to make a VERY fast car in such a light platform (especially considering the short gearing) Problem is, you will NEVER have traction off the line.
To make around 280WHP, you can get a turbo that would start producing positive manifold pressure by 3K RPM's on the tach. If you want into the 320-350 bracket, the "lag" will increase to around 3500. I'm expecting the 400WHP project of mine to start making boost around 4K or less RPM's... And into the 600's it just gets crazy because of the sheer size of the turbo required (no positive pressure probably until 5K, but at that point the car turns into a missle on four skinny tires -- hope you upgraded the brakes)
You can put together a 300WHP BETA engine for less than $6000 in GOOD condition, along with a transmission and clutch that will not commit suicide under the power. In such a car, you would probably get a bit more torque than horsepower because (for turbo sizing reasons) the output peak would be a little below 5252RPM's.
You can get a brand new Accent for around $10K. Get one of the "BETA bolt-in" kits for around $400-500USD, get a donor BETA for around $500 from one of the folks on the forums... Pick up one of UFB's Stage II kits for around $4K and tweak on it a bit, and you've got a fairly untouchable Hyundai for around $16,500 plus tax, freight, tags, title, license and shipping fees.
I'm not kidding, a 300WHP Accent would run away from 95% of the cars on the roads. How many people drive a 12-second car to work every day?
-Red-
300WHP in an Accent would be enough to chase down (and likely pass) a stock Z06 Vette on the highway -- you don't need massive power to make a VERY fast car in such a light platform (especially considering the short gearing) Problem is, you will NEVER have traction off the line.
To make around 280WHP, you can get a turbo that would start producing positive manifold pressure by 3K RPM's on the tach. If you want into the 320-350 bracket, the "lag" will increase to around 3500. I'm expecting the 400WHP project of mine to start making boost around 4K or less RPM's... And into the 600's it just gets crazy because of the sheer size of the turbo required (no positive pressure probably until 5K, but at that point the car turns into a missle on four skinny tires -- hope you upgraded the brakes)
You can put together a 300WHP BETA engine for less than $6000 in GOOD condition, along with a transmission and clutch that will not commit suicide under the power. In such a car, you would probably get a bit more torque than horsepower because (for turbo sizing reasons) the output peak would be a little below 5252RPM's.
You can get a brand new Accent for around $10K. Get one of the "BETA bolt-in" kits for around $400-500USD, get a donor BETA for around $500 from one of the folks on the forums... Pick up one of UFB's Stage II kits for around $4K and tweak on it a bit, and you've got a fairly untouchable Hyundai for around $16,500 plus tax, freight, tags, title, license and shipping fees.

I'm not kidding, a 300WHP Accent would run away from 95% of the cars on the roads. How many people drive a 12-second car to work every day?
-Red-
You da man Red. Exactly what I wanted to hear. It's too bad I'm a student, and therefore poor. Luckily for me, my parents are helping me out with the costs of college, so until it's done, all of my extra money goes to that, but after, no debt! Yay...more money for tuning! My somewhat longterm goal right now is to have a 400whp Accent by the end of my first year out for a show car that'll do some good for the Hyundai cause!
Anyways...school calls,
Mav
Anyways...school calls,
Mav
Super Moderator

Joined: May 2001
Posts: 11,851
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From: Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
Vehicle: 2008 Toyota Prius 2006 Suzuki SV650S
QUOTE
Originally posted by Julez:
I must bow to Red and Random as usual, I wish I had their godlike knowledge.
I must bow to Red and Random as usual, I wish I had their godlike knowledge.

Hardly god like (me anyway, I bow to Red!)
Just do your reading, and your research.
Random Said
"Also, keep in mind the "Delta" series of engines is known to be weak. The guys in Korea do NOT tune these engines. They have tried it and they turn into grenades. In korea, they swap in the Beta motor, as it has proven it self to be basically bullet proof (with the right buildup) up to 600 Wheel HP. "
How weak. are we talking blow the engine at 300 weak or just not 600 doable. I would love to trick out mine to about 300 with a 50 to 60 shot of NOS in the end. By that time My warranty will have expired anyway. But if the engine just cant take it. what can it take.
"Also, keep in mind the "Delta" series of engines is known to be weak. The guys in Korea do NOT tune these engines. They have tried it and they turn into grenades. In korea, they swap in the Beta motor, as it has proven it self to be basically bullet proof (with the right buildup) up to 600 Wheel HP. "
How weak. are we talking blow the engine at 300 weak or just not 600 doable. I would love to trick out mine to about 300 with a 50 to 60 shot of NOS in the end. By that time My warranty will have expired anyway. But if the engine just cant take it. what can it take.
There's not really any exact numbers coming from the folks in Korea. It sounds like any more than about 250-260WHP and it starts breaking rods... The block isn't nearly as stout either, nor are the crank mains girdled, nor is the crank as thick.
The BETA is a "sloppier" design overall, but is built like a Mack truck and is almost as durable. There are lots of engineering things that Hyundai could have done much better in the longblock design itself, but the parts are incredibly solid.
The Delta series is better engineered than the Beta, but is nowhere close to being on the same strength level.
-Red-
The BETA is a "sloppier" design overall, but is built like a Mack truck and is almost as durable. There are lots of engineering things that Hyundai could have done much better in the longblock design itself, but the parts are incredibly solid.
The Delta series is better engineered than the Beta, but is nowhere close to being on the same strength level.
-Red-
i have the same question as Dixieflatline here. I just got the GT and want to do some upgrades but I don't want the engine shooting out of the hood while going down the road
How much can the new Delta engines handle hp wise?
rolleyes.gif whoops, Red already got to it before I could hit the post button
[ February 12, 2002: Message edited by: Phantom ]
How much can the new Delta engines handle hp wise?rolleyes.gif whoops, Red already got to it before I could hit the post button

[ February 12, 2002: Message edited by: Phantom ]
Is there anything we can do in the long run? WOW THAT SUCKS.
sad.gif Means Maby a turbo but No NOS and turbo. So what does 250 WHP = in engine horse?
I have seen posts around that say they auto tranny looses about 25% power so..... That means I should be good for say another 100 horse (crossing fingers) for a total engine horse of say 280?
(prays random says that it works)
6PSI turbo for about 50 or 60 horse and
40-50 shot of NOS.
Thanks
sad.gif Means Maby a turbo but No NOS and turbo. So what does 250 WHP = in engine horse? I have seen posts around that say they auto tranny looses about 25% power so..... That means I should be good for say another 100 horse (crossing fingers) for a total engine horse of say 280?
(prays random says that it works)
6PSI turbo for about 50 or 60 horse and
40-50 shot of NOS.
Thanks
No, I'm talking about 250-260WHP on a manual transmission. If you have an auto, then your total power output at the tires will probably be around 240WHP...
Think around the lines of 300 crank horsepower.
You can likely combat several of the issues by aftermarket rods and pistons... In conjunction with VERY VERY good tuning. You can make a stock Honda B16A2 engine (we're talking stock everything, to include pistons and rods) produce 330WHP with a big enough turbo -- and EXTREMELY tight tuning. The problem is, it will STILL eventually either crack a cylinder sleeve or crack ringlands under the severe pressures in the cylinders.
Same goes for the Delta I would bet: You can replace the rods and pistons and safely apply more power, but after a certain point you're still going to break something that's not as easily replaced -- a cracked cylinder sleeve is nasty.
-Red-
Think around the lines of 300 crank horsepower.
You can likely combat several of the issues by aftermarket rods and pistons... In conjunction with VERY VERY good tuning. You can make a stock Honda B16A2 engine (we're talking stock everything, to include pistons and rods) produce 330WHP with a big enough turbo -- and EXTREMELY tight tuning. The problem is, it will STILL eventually either crack a cylinder sleeve or crack ringlands under the severe pressures in the cylinders.
Same goes for the Delta I would bet: You can replace the rods and pistons and safely apply more power, but after a certain point you're still going to break something that's not as easily replaced -- a cracked cylinder sleeve is nasty.
-Red-



