u must use oem tranny oil, mine did the whole grid from 1 to 2. i used quaker state " big mistake"

as for the it working have the time and staling out, when i got my VHR i cought hell same as u but i Replace the master and slave cylinder, then you have to adj the through on the master. you almost have to have the pedle tight but not to tight the through on the master cylinger is pre set to the OEM clutch pressure u have to compansate for the high clamp load...call me at 903-258-9304 i go throught me some clutch over here rolleyes.gif

 

At 60k, I had a problem with my original clutch. That was about a year ago so I can't remember exactly what happened. I do remember that I was making one of the final turns to my house about 1/8 mile away and I "rolled" home on the car's momentum. I had it towed to the dealer and they said the clutch was slipping. When I had it towed back, it was drivable again but I had the clutch changed anyways...

So, I had an OEM clutch installed. They guy who installed it seemed a bit shady, he did end up breaking my camshaft position sensor on the install. After this install I had a few problems, like the clutch clicking sometimes when depressed. No gears sticking though. This is where I learned it's better off to get quality parts and pay to get it done right.

A few thousand miles later (~5k maybe) I installed the VHR clutch myself. The car started right up and I took it easy on the clutch for about 500 city miles. A few thousand miles later, I started having some more problems, like gears sticking and the clutch pedal engagement changing. That's when I took it to the dealer and asked them to check for crank walk and all they found were bad engine mounts. Then I found the thrust washers in my oil pan, this was only about 1k miles after I had taken it to the dealer to check for crank walk.

 

Sometimes if it's hard to shift, there might be debree inbetween the pressure plates fingers and its housing. It happened to me and a friend of mine recently. If something small breaks inside or a pebble makes its way into the housing, that's usually where it gets sent. It'll then keep the clutch from disengaging causing you to grind or not even be able to shift.

 

say what?

Did you adjust your master and slave cyl to compensate for the extra force needed on the VHR clutch? How did you do that?


Wow jon.. I was having the same issues about shifting.. Dam thing wouldint let me shift out of gear at times. My engine comes out friday or saturday... so ill know then.

Spiffy
Sorry i missed your call yesterday. I have only seen crankwalk in 1 beta out of.... wow i dont know how many ive seen. Either way.. it wasnt mine tongue.gif

I do agree that the clutchnet engages VERY Soon... this is in comparison to 3 different stage 4's that i have had before.
Adjusting the master/slave cyl is something i never knew was possible in our cars. Im going to try that... ill let you know if it works.

 

I didn't know that you could adjust the master cylinder either... this would be very good information to know!

My car had this problem right after I turned 60K on my car also... But I drove it around for like 4K before I got it back to the shop. I might had actually had this issue before I put in the new clutch, because the reason I changed the clutch was slippage and it was grinding 1-2nd gear... it just got worse with the Stage III clutch.

 

to adj it u use a 12mm open end and turn the push rod clock wise Note: this is for a KDM tibby. i am sure that the parts are the same.. you can all so adj the bump stop on the clutch too.

 

i am going to have to check... cause i really had no clue this was possible.

 

Yea, Tim told me about it a while back. It's in webtech.

 

I'm wondering if this "crankwalk" issue is really due to the excessive clamping force of these "hi po" clutches....

Or if somehow/someone is doing something wrong with the clutch/transmission install that is damaging things and causing this problem.

 

Most likely the install was wrong. Most of us would have this problem then.