Engine, Intake, Exhaust Modifications to your Normally Aspirated Hyundai engine. Cold Air Intakes, Spark Plugs/wires, Cat back Exhaust...etc.

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Old Jul 18, 2005 | 02:54 PM
  #11  
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if you've got high mileage I would definitaly replace plugs and wires. But then again if that would really be the problem the car would hold back from 0 - 30 as well. Not only on the interstate

I would also check fuel and air filter.

offtopic.gif
or you could trade it in for a 2005 Tib laugh.gif
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Old Jul 18, 2005 | 02:57 PM
  #12  
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yea right i could never afford a 2005 tib lol, i barely afforded to but this car, i only paid $3000 for it with 68,000 miles when i got it, its been a great car many plans for it down the road
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Old Jul 18, 2005 | 03:17 PM
  #13  
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75k isnt that bad but i would do what i said ive had the same problem before. Check your air fuel ratio also.
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Old Jul 18, 2005 | 10:15 PM
  #14  
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Is it a manual transmission? I have a theory, and the fix will be many hundreds in labor. . .

Edit: nevermind, if you can be in drive it ain't manual.

$3000 is a great price for that mileage.
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Old Jul 19, 2005 | 05:58 AM
  #15  
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you know.... I just noticed something here... The revs drop when he loses power. In any tranny.. what causes the revs to drop? His auto is upshifting. Of course it is going to see like a drop in power. The car is just getting into the meat of the powerband when the transmission upshifts and drops the revs to about a thousand over idle.. there is not a lot of power that low.

Are you taking it easy when getting onto the highway, or are you at wide open throttle? (WOT)
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Old Jul 19, 2005 | 06:43 AM
  #16  
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^I was thinking the same as I live here in Roanoke also (where Josh [OneBadtib] lives) and I have an auto 98 as well, so I've got the same conditions as he does. However, Josh, I'm not experiencing the same problems.

Josh, I'd trouble shoot this all systematically, working from least expensive to highest cost. So I would start by reseting the ECU, then driving.

I'd agree with most of the guys and say consider your plugs and wires. If you haven't changed them yet, assume that your still running the same plugs and wires that were put on the car back in 97 when it came off the line.

Is your CEL on (like the rest of ours offtopic.gif )? If not, I'd push messing with your O2 sensors out of your analysis for a bit. Consider the Fuel filter, the air filter, the TPS sensor, possibly the MAF sensor....take every change one at a time. This is a prime oppurtunity to learn more bout your tib. I'll stop by and talk to you when I get a chance this week.
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Old Jul 19, 2005 | 09:28 AM
  #17  
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Yea my next pay check im gonna go ahead a replace the , plugs and wires, and go ahead and order a CAI, then if the plugs and wires doesn't change anything then ill try reseting the ECU you like you guys suggested and then start checking everything else, thanks guys




Josh
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Old Jul 19, 2005 | 09:54 AM
  #18  
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RE-SET ECU NOW
This happened to my car so many times, try the things i told you and go from there.
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Old Jul 19, 2005 | 10:21 AM
  #19  
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haha.gif

Resetting the ECU is FREE

F R E E

NO MONEY

It's the first thing you do to check if it helps

Then order plugs and wires...

Well in your case, order the plugs and wires even if the ecu fixes the problem
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Old Jul 19, 2005 | 10:23 AM
  #20  
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Yea dude, why not just reset it now. It takes a few minutes to do and it could be the fix you needed. If you dont know how to do it: Just disconnect the negative battery cable. Then go inside the car a press down on the brake a few times just to make sure all the electricity is used and out of the system. Next, some people say wait 15 minutes until you reconect the battery, so you might as well wait just to be safe. So wait, then reconnect battery and go drive hard for a little while.
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