Engine, Intake, Exhaust Modifications to your Normally Aspirated Hyundai engine. Cold Air Intakes, Spark Plugs/wires, Cat back Exhaust...etc.

KORE copper head gaskets

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Old 02-06-2002, 03:19 AM
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Default KORE copper head gaskets

I'm wondering what the copper .62 and .93 copper head gaskets at the Kore website have over the stock gaskets in the tibby? can someone explain this to me? Will it alter compressions? or is it just for better wear and tear? Any performance increase?
Old 02-06-2002, 04:06 AM
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The thicker gaskets will lower compression.

I have no idea why someone would want one.

The stock gasket is damn near bullit proof, and lowering compression via a thicker head gasket leads to other problems...(improper/too much squish/quench area in the combustion chamber).
Old 02-06-2002, 04:08 AM
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thankx random!!
as always, your my hero.

btw, is there anything you don't know wink.gif
Old 02-06-2002, 04:16 AM
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LOL! Random is the supreme guru, bow before him

On the other side of things, a THINNER head gasket can increase static compression and doesn't carry the same detrimental side effects of a THICKER head gasket. Since I am unsure of the stock headgasket thickness, I couldn't tell you if these are thinner or not.

The stock BETA head gasket is two metal layers and a cork/rubber/spongy layer. I'm willing to bet that every 600+ wheel horsepower BETA engine uses the stock head gasket with no problems. You're more likely to stretch the stock head bolts than actually blow the gasket from too much cylinder pressure. smile.gif

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Old 02-06-2002, 05:27 AM
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So would the thinner gasket be better for N/A applications?
Old 02-06-2002, 07:00 AM
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That would be correct.

Strictly in a theoretical sense, a thinner head gasket would also be good for a forced induction engine too. I say this because a thinner head gasket will bring the quench area between the piston crown and the cylinder head much tighter, which can (again, theoretically) result in better fuel atomization, a cooler air/fuel mixture and more power delivered across a smaller area = more force on the piston.

Theoretically speaking

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Old 02-06-2002, 07:03 AM
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Hmmmm... but theory does not always lead to fact.
Old 02-06-2002, 07:11 AM
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Quench areas are a thermodynamic fact but they're also somewhat of a black hole after a certain extent. You can maximize quench area and quench clearance to find gains, until you reach a certain point where it suddenly reverts backwards and causes more problems than it solves.

Typically, 0.045" of clearance is an acceptable tradeoff... You can ratchet this down even tigher for more help, but at some point you cross the lines and either have problems with valve pocket depth in the piston OR clearance issues with the head and piston itself.

As I've stated before, I'll be knocking my quench areas down to 0.035" for my own project. It's on me if it doesn't work right tongue.gif

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Old 02-06-2002, 08:08 AM
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So if you were going to stay N/A you would want to get a smaller gasket with largers Cams not the 2.0L cams correct? Or would this be a bad thing to do with a more lumpier cam in the car? Also there is no gain HP or torque wise by doing this correct only better atomization of the gas.
Old 02-07-2002, 01:18 PM
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Guilty-

Quench/Squish areas do not lead to better atomization, but rather to better air/fuel mixture dispursion throughout the combustion chamber, allowing a more "even" mix through the chamber, and thus a more controled burn. This CAN lead to more HP and torque, or totally hork things up if done wrong.




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