jacking hood
A while back someone posted about how the peeps in korean will add washers to the hood hinges to raise the rear hood and create a gap for hot air to escape. Basically doing a evo type setup.
anyone know what sort of gains this would have on a N/A setup? My engine bay is wicked hot.
anyone know what sort of gains this would have on a N/A setup? My engine bay is wicked hot.
upgrade your fans if you want to cool dam the temps
or get your headers ceramic coated... it makes a WORLD of difference
My headers are actually less hot than the engine itself
Can you touch your headers 5 min after a 2 hour drive?
I can
BTW they will be for sale in a month
price has not been determined wink
or get your headers ceramic coated... it makes a WORLD of difference
My headers are actually less hot than the engine itself
Can you touch your headers 5 min after a 2 hour drive?
I can
BTW they will be for sale in a month
price has not been determined wink
Can you cook hotdogs over yours bro?
JK
Aight man seriously, what was the cost of the ceramic coating, and who applies it?
Gonna need somthing like this done pretty soon and I need info....Thanks in advance!
JKAight man seriously, what was the cost of the ceramic coating, and who applies it?
Gonna need somthing like this done pretty soon and I need info....Thanks in advance!
if you have say, the SR 4-1 headers, how do you go about getting them ceramic coated? whats' an average cost, and what kind of places do it? i was pissed that SR didn't have the HVE ceramics in stock, so i had to go with theirs. thanks
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The ceramic coating makes a UNIVERSE of differnce, not just a WORLD of differnce. After 3-5 minutes, you can TOUCH the ceramic coated headers. under hood temps dropped about 50 degrees with coated headers vs stock manifold and heatshield.
The cost is $100 to $200.
www.capsbhc.com
I do NOT reccomend their "CermaKrome" as it only stands up to 1300 degrees. EGT's should be in the 1500's at high RPM full throttle, go with the regular black.
Some other things you can to to keep your engine compartment cooler.
Wire up your passenger side fan, AC condensor fan, to run all the time (when the ignition is on). It brings air into the engine compartment when sitting still, and also blows air over the headers/exhaust manifold/turbo/turbo manifold. This will raise under hood temps when sitting still, as you are moving around hot air, but it helps when moving.
Make sure you run with ALL engine/fender shields in place. They are designed to suck air out of the engine bay out the bottom, and under the car. By removing them, you screw up the air flow through the radiator, and under the car.
Buy a hood scoop or vented hood. The EVO hood I have is awesome. Even with the turbo, and the fan running all the time, under hood temps never go above 15 degress above outside air temp. Jaws021's WRX hood scoop also works rather well, in combination with the ceramic coated headers. For those of you worried about water being dumped on your exhaust manifold, a WRX scoop or high mounted scoop is the answer. My evo hood has been driven through the rain, with no problems to the turbo manifold, or turbo. To put it simply, the water that does reach the hot exhaust parts is insufficent to cool the hot parts fast enough to cause damage. Sure, I suppose if I dumped a 10 gallon bucket through the hood opening on a HOT engine, that might do it, but let's face it, at speed, not much/any rain get's in there, at a stop, not enough rain can get in there to cause any damage. I've even washed my car with the engine hot, and if A garden hose spray running down/up the hood and into the vent's cant damage anything, I doubt that miss mother nature can throw anything worst at it.
The hood washer idea is what the guys in korea use. I've seen kits for sale on korean websites that sell them in 5mm, 10mm and 15mm shim kits. I would start with all of the above options first, and use the shims/washers as a last resort. Start with 5mm washers, if that's not enough to crack the seal at the back of the hood/windshield, move on to the 10mm washers. Keep in mind, longer hood bolts may be necessary if you go over 5mm.
[ September 25, 2002, 11:19 PM: Message edited by: Random ]
The cost is $100 to $200.
www.capsbhc.com
I do NOT reccomend their "CermaKrome" as it only stands up to 1300 degrees. EGT's should be in the 1500's at high RPM full throttle, go with the regular black.
Some other things you can to to keep your engine compartment cooler.
Wire up your passenger side fan, AC condensor fan, to run all the time (when the ignition is on). It brings air into the engine compartment when sitting still, and also blows air over the headers/exhaust manifold/turbo/turbo manifold. This will raise under hood temps when sitting still, as you are moving around hot air, but it helps when moving.
Make sure you run with ALL engine/fender shields in place. They are designed to suck air out of the engine bay out the bottom, and under the car. By removing them, you screw up the air flow through the radiator, and under the car.
Buy a hood scoop or vented hood. The EVO hood I have is awesome. Even with the turbo, and the fan running all the time, under hood temps never go above 15 degress above outside air temp. Jaws021's WRX hood scoop also works rather well, in combination with the ceramic coated headers. For those of you worried about water being dumped on your exhaust manifold, a WRX scoop or high mounted scoop is the answer. My evo hood has been driven through the rain, with no problems to the turbo manifold, or turbo. To put it simply, the water that does reach the hot exhaust parts is insufficent to cool the hot parts fast enough to cause damage. Sure, I suppose if I dumped a 10 gallon bucket through the hood opening on a HOT engine, that might do it, but let's face it, at speed, not much/any rain get's in there, at a stop, not enough rain can get in there to cause any damage. I've even washed my car with the engine hot, and if A garden hose spray running down/up the hood and into the vent's cant damage anything, I doubt that miss mother nature can throw anything worst at it.
The hood washer idea is what the guys in korea use. I've seen kits for sale on korean websites that sell them in 5mm, 10mm and 15mm shim kits. I would start with all of the above options first, and use the shims/washers as a last resort. Start with 5mm washers, if that's not enough to crack the seal at the back of the hood/windshield, move on to the 10mm washers. Keep in mind, longer hood bolts may be necessary if you go over 5mm.
[ September 25, 2002, 11:19 PM: Message edited by: Random ]



