I think there's something wrong with my clutch...
#1
Re: Potential tuning ECU swap for RD cars from REAL
Well today a good buddy asked to go with him to see a 1998 Tiburon FX that a guy is selling for cheap.
The car seemed pretty good and he asked me to drive it and give him my opinion. The first thing I noticed was that this cars clutch pedal travel is about half the distance that it is in my car. I have no idea why this is but I drove it and it didn't feel anything at all like my clutch.
There's the detail that the car has an ACT clutch, but somehow I don't think that should affect the clutch pedal travel. Also I think my clutch pump maybe going bad because since I got my car 4 years ago, whenever I depress the clutch, it sounds like a old door with a rusted swing mechanism is being closed. You know like the doors sound on an old house? The screeching sound?
The sound goes away whenever I bleed the clutch fluid but it comes back after a while.
Could this mean that my clutch pump has gone bad? I changed my clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing in February last year. Also I got a 1997 REV. A 1.8L Tiburon.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
The car seemed pretty good and he asked me to drive it and give him my opinion. The first thing I noticed was that this cars clutch pedal travel is about half the distance that it is in my car. I have no idea why this is but I drove it and it didn't feel anything at all like my clutch.
There's the detail that the car has an ACT clutch, but somehow I don't think that should affect the clutch pedal travel. Also I think my clutch pump maybe going bad because since I got my car 4 years ago, whenever I depress the clutch, it sounds like a old door with a rusted swing mechanism is being closed. You know like the doors sound on an old house? The screeching sound?
The sound goes away whenever I bleed the clutch fluid but it comes back after a while.
Could this mean that my clutch pump has gone bad? I changed my clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing in February last year. Also I got a 1997 REV. A 1.8L Tiburon.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
#2
Re: '99 Stock Tiburon - Silver (56k Safe)
Actually I noticed today that my cluth was mkaing a bit of a screeching noise and didnt have a clean feel to it. It seemed to happen at lowish gears at lowish (~3) RPMs
It went away after the car warmed up though.
Its almost summer over here, but it was fairly cool today, I suppose I'll watch it and see what happens. Maybe I'll notice it again in 6 months when Winter comes around.
Too bad I know dick all about cars at the moment, else I'd start randomly pulling things out and swearing; like I do to troubleshoot my computer troubles... wink1.gif
It went away after the car warmed up though.
Its almost summer over here, but it was fairly cool today, I suppose I'll watch it and see what happens. Maybe I'll notice it again in 6 months when Winter comes around.
Too bad I know dick all about cars at the moment, else I'd start randomly pulling things out and swearing; like I do to troubleshoot my computer troubles... wink1.gif
#3
Avatars, Avatars, Avatars!!!***UPDATED 56K WARNING***
Tibu971.8: when you changed your clutch did you remember to bleed your clutch line afterwards? If not, I'd high recommend doing that. In order to do that on the clutch slave cylinder there is a release valve similiar to those on brake calipers. You bleed that just as the same was when you bleed your brakes. You'll pedal should feel more firm after that and your clutch engagement point should be towards the top of the pedal now.
Also while you are doing this you might want to adjust the clutch master cylinder arm. To do this you have to loosed a nut that is on the back of your clutch pedal. It will be the one holding a rod that goes through the firewall. Consequently that rod is connected to your clutch master cylinder. After you loosen the nut spin the rod so it move toward the firewall. Stop when you have minimal amount of rod left to be able to secure with the nut.
Also check for your slave cylinder being all goooey as well as leaking down your firewall on the inside and outside of the car from the master cylinder. If either are the case replace that part and repeate bleeding the line.
Also while you are doing this you might want to adjust the clutch master cylinder arm. To do this you have to loosed a nut that is on the back of your clutch pedal. It will be the one holding a rod that goes through the firewall. Consequently that rod is connected to your clutch master cylinder. After you loosen the nut spin the rod so it move toward the firewall. Stop when you have minimal amount of rod left to be able to secure with the nut.
Also check for your slave cylinder being all goooey as well as leaking down your firewall on the inside and outside of the car from the master cylinder. If either are the case replace that part and repeate bleeding the line.
#4
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Re: Potential tuning ECU swap for RD cars from REAL
Dweet hit it head on.. you might also want to see if the pivot on your clutch pedal needs any grease too.. if it does, use it sparingly.. I recommend a white lithium (no idea what Hyundai recommends) only because it seems to hold up and does not tend to glob up and fall on your ankle.. like I said, using sparingly.
#5
Re: gt rear lip
Well I do bleed the clutch system every now and then. And it does fix the sqeaking problem, but after a month of driving the sqeaking comes back. Also I seem to be loosing some fluid because the reservoir goes down every month and I have to fill it back up every now and then.
I may have a leak somewhere that causing air to enter the system?
I may have a leak somewhere that causing air to enter the system?
#6
Re: MSD Ignition
yeah, do the firewall check or find where the leak is coming from, sounds like you need a new master cylinder, but i guess there is a possibility the line could be bad. If the line is bad replace it with a SS line, if its the master cylinder get ready to fork out about $100 for the part.
#8
Re: Oil change frequency
probably just make your own line, you can buy SS line by the foot, probably the same grade that SS brake lines are made of. Then all you'd just need to get the right fittings and adapt it. Maybe one of these GB guys who know the people that make the SS brake lines can come up with a SS clutch line for us