REDZMAN

Yeah, that's how you are SUPPOSED TO TURN IT, is via the part he used on the cam. I did mine that way, and nothing "flaked", there are no marrs, marks, nothing. Guess the pony cams are shitty.


I've taken off and put on my valve cover about 25 or 30 times now, have no leaks, and have NEVER torqued them. Never broken a bolt either.

Stocker

When Hyundai's web-based manual says to turn the engine using a wrench on the flats on a cam shaft that were cast into the cam for that purpose, I'm inclined to do it. That cam is tied via the timing belt (which is no slouch) to the crankshaft. Plus, turning the crank directly requires removing a wheel or getting under the car. No thanks. If there were no flats for a wrench on the cam, yes, I'd pull the wheel and turn it at the crank, before putting a wrench to a cam lobe! lmao.gif

I am very sensitive to changes in my circumstances. I can feel it when the atmospheric pressure rises/falls by a gnat's ass on the barometer. I can feel it when my car runs rougher due to longer/taller cam lobes, even if it is only 6 degrees and .4mm. These cams can be adjusted in 8 degree increments by missing a tooth on the timing belt, or more than that IIRC with the timing chain. This ain't your old-school SBC here, and you can't adjust it by fractions of a degree with stock hardware.

The bolts: yay rubber gaskets! 5lbs-ft is tighter than I would have done it by hand, but I like my engine not to leak oil on itself eh.

The cam: I reset the ECU & got on it getting on the freeway this morning. The engine definitely pushes harder, and has a slightly but appreciably sweeter (louder) tone. Then the ECU threw my favorite indicator light again a few miles later. I have a sneaking suspicion I'm going to be selling that 1.8L ECU shortly. mad.gif

Bullfrog

Ive had mine in for a month or 2 and have no CEL related to it.

daafisch

Ive had mine for a few months now and the only cel i get is for my cat.....gotta change that damned thing

Stocker

I know, my car's picky. During the wet season with the stock computer it throws P1128 for a few days at a time then it goes away. That's the brother of P1127, which is what I'm getting from this computer. It's possible I have a flaky EVAP purge valve (sucks to get to), a vacuum leak (hassle to find), a bad TPS (hassle to swap) or some other BS. I was hoping the code was from my cracked exhaust manifold, but they just gave me a brand new one so that's not it. I'll get around to it sometime, but it's hard to fix with the stock computer not giving a constant code and it's easier to reset the 1.8L ECM than to remove it (also sucks to get to).

Come to think of it, is there a test procedure for the TPS or is it easier to swap the one from my parts car than test the one that 's on there?

Bullfrog

yes there is a test, its in the DIY section.

Stocker

You mean this? It's the only one I could find in the DIY section
http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtop...mp;#entry307859

I can find the thing, I want to test it! lmao.gif don't make me go dig thru webtech myself now...

REDZMAN

To test your TPS, go out and start your car, push on the face of the TPS, if your engine rev changes, your TPS is bad. Try to "wiggle" it on the axis with the screws, if your engine rev changes, your TPS is bad.

Wiggle the wiring harness, if it changes RPM, your TPS could be bad, but the wiring could be loose in the connector.

Stocker

Freaky Deaky. Imma try that when I go leave today, thanks!

If I'm feeling froggy I'll post (in that thread) a picture of my hand pushing on the TPS to show the nubz how to do it. fing02.gif