BayTib13

So, my engine is hydrolocked, sucks. I was gettin onto a highway after it had been heavily pouring rain all day. My air intake is down around my front bumper, and when I went onto the ramp, it completely submerged. I had the clutch held in so the throttle body wasnt wide open, and as soon as I hit it died, not sure if this makes much of a difference. Took it to a mechanic a few days later when we could get it on a trailor to take, they said the block was water locked, didnt say exactly what it was. All I know is that I was told it would be easier to get a new engine and have it dropped in. Found a guy today with the same engine I had before, with 42k miles, that will install it for around $1850. Any suggestions are very welcome

mwood

for 1850 you could buy and install your one lower mileage engine...

and put some good mods to it...IE better clutch/flywheel, Megan Headers, etc

majik

Is the car in your possession? If so, take out spark plugs and lay a DRY cloth/rag over it, make sure there's no lint that may fall off into the holes. Let us know the status of the spark plugs, and if they're wet.

Take off the CAI and let us know if any water was in there. May be a good idea to see if any water is sitting in the throttle body - you don't want to put more water into the engine.

Take a look at this thread: http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtop...mp;hl=hydrolock

HELP - Does anyone remember who posted the video of water shooting out of the engine while cranking it? Post it up.


edit, think I found it. http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtopic=32009

BayTib13

Just called to verify what all they tried, the mechanic said they had tried that, but the engine wont turn over at all. Manifold and sensors should be fine, so I think at this point the best thing to do is probably get a beta II or a new beta I engine. Any input on this matter is appreciated. If anyone has any other techniques

'treezy

FYI, the clutch has no mechanical linkage to the throttle body. You want to let off the accelerator pedal in order to close the butterfly valve! wink1.gif

BayTib13

haha this I know, by holding the clutch, I meant my foot was completely off the gas, I'm assuming I just got horribly unlucky this time though.

Stocker

For $1850 you can buy an engine and have it shipped to your house, have the car towed to your house, AND buy all the tools you would need to DIY.

If you needed to . . . no offense to your guy, but there's no guarantee you need to replace the whole shebang. Before I paid half what the car is worth, I would want to, at the very LEAST:

Go in person and witness that the starter will try to go but it will not so much as turn over.
If
the spark plugs are out,
the clutch is disengaged,
the starter is drawing current,
and the engine isn't spinning,
that's a Very Bad Sign.

If you pull the upper cover on the timing belt and (clutch disengaged, again) you can't turn the engine (clockwise) with a socket wrench/breaker bar on the nut on the timing gear, it's likely your engine is shot.

supercow

I just paid 1500 to get the auto trans in my jeep rebuilt, removed/reinstalled. Sometimes it's just not good timing to be doing those things yourself. I could have done it with my brother-in-laws help (never rebuilt a trans, replaced many though!) but right now just isn't a good time.

Anyways that seems steep. I bought my motor with... like 50k on it for... I'm gonna have to look it up! anyways removal and reinstall shouldn't be more than 700-800. I didn't care about putting any upgrades in the jeep though.

editk, mine has 52k and cost 350 and tax. Shop around in your area a bit.

dddude55

I hydro-locked mine once: http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtopic=22076&hl=

The mechanic is probably screwing with you. I had 3/4 cylinders completely filled with water and I got mine running with the advice given from these guys. You take out the spark plugs, disconnect the fuel pump by either the fuse or the plugs under the back seat, and crank it with a towel over the plug holes.
Every few cranks you move the towel slightly so you always have a dry spot over the hole. This makes sure you get more water out at a time and also gives you an idea of how much water is left in it. You could be cranking for a few minutes so give it a rest every 15 seconds to let the starter cool down for a few seconds. I put my moms van beside the car and had jumper cables on so my battery wouldn't die.

The car was very reluctant to start, took a while of cranking once i put the plugs back in and connected the fuel pump. Once i got it started it would not idle. It would stutter and die if I didn't press the gas. I took it around the block a few times to get some rpms under load to force anything still in the system out. You could imagine how awkward it was since it wouldn't idle and I had an automatic. Had to slip it in neutral and brake with my left foot while slightly pressing the gas with my right foot to keep it running. 2 runs around the block and it would idle fine.

I am willing to bet that if you do the same it will be fine. Unless you got really unlucky and bent a rod when the engine tried to compress a cylinder full of water. Also, the chances of you actually sucking water into the engine if you didn't have your foot on the accelerator is very slim. It would have died before pulling water all the way up the cai, through the idle bypass/small butterfly valve opening, and into the cylinders.

Stocker

I wouldn't bet, but I share your hunch. There is actually a chance it could be a bad engine. For an engine to not spin at all with the spark plugs out, either the starter or battery or their interconnections/controls are bad, the clutch/tranny are holding the engine still, or there is a Bad Thing going on in the engine.