Zman

THE TITLE SHOULD HAVE BEEN TICKING, not tocking; I just realized that.

Hi, I've searched the forums for HLA noises and read them.
I have a tick noise which I'm pretty sure is coming from the HLA's, but weird thing is how I get the tick.
My car can be fine for weeks if I drive it slowly, I always wait for it to be warm before revving it, but if I drive medium-hard for like 20-40 minutes and revv it constantly above 4500 - 5000 rpm, then the ticking comes hard and refuses to leave; I turn the car off (before leting it idle for 2-3 minutes) and when I turn it on a few hours later, the ticking is gone.
Isn't the noise from the HLA's originated on them not being "charged"? If I'm driving hard, aren't they supossed to charge; specially if I drive hard after they have NOT been ticking?
I am very confused, please throw any ideas/solutions.
Thanks a lot.

silvertibbs

I have the exact same problem. Check your oil, I have been experimenting with different oils to see which one is better for calming this down. It's your lifters (I could be wrong) making the noise, it happens when I drive it hard too. Make sure you oil levels are high at all times. I have tried Quaker State High Mileage Oil and that worked well. But I just switched to Mobil 1 Synthetic just to see. I've been givin' her pretty hard but I haven't noticed the "ticking" yet. We will see.

Speedblind

I used to have that ticking noise, which sounds like a particle of metal getting tossed-up by the cams behind the valve cover....I don't exactly know what causes the HLA's to tick, my best guess would be that they are filthy/dirty with rust or better yet coated with normal wear debris which prevents them from doing their job properly. Reason I say this is that when I took my cylinder head apart for porting, polishing, and milling I noticed that the HLA's where coated with filth, kind of rust looking [could have been a little rust as well, cause condensation can occur in there with the heat], but it could have been hardened oil debris as well or both. Anyways, what I did is I soaked [submerged] all the HLA's in automatic transmission fluid for about a week. The auto tranny fluid is a great cleaning solution, it breaks down surface rust, hardened oil debris etc...so I soaked the HLA's for a week then I individually cleaned each on off from the trans oil with a clean shop rag placed each one in a vise and using a ratchet socket along with the rag to avoid metal to metal contact, I compressed/drained any contaminated fluid from each HLA, then assembled these back into the cylinder head with redline assembly lube and filled it with fully synthetic oil and to this day, no ticking....even when I let rev hard quite as when new....its not an easy fix but if you are thinking of either upgrading to an already ported and polished cylinder head or doing that to your existing head, then clean the HLA's using the method I just mentioned and that should work.

Hope this helps!

Zman

I have been using std. Multigrade SAE 10W 40W; I add engine flush every two oil changes and after that, EVERY oil change I pour two quarters of HD 4oW oil and let it idle for a while, then drain it and add the fresh oil.
I always change oil every 3000 miles or less. right now I'm using Castrol Full Synthetic Oil, it's more expensive, but I wanted to see if I could get rid of the problem using a better oil, but it seems I wont.

OK I was just posting the above lines and I saw your post.
Thanks, I am giving a thought on the head port and polish, not necessarily for porting the head, but for port-matching the intake manifold (AirRam) and if I get some money I'm supossed to get, I will enter tghe Maintec Header GB for the Racing Headers. In that case I'll follow your method of cleansing.

silvertibbs

Thanks Speedblind that is a great idea. I think I just might do that.

KayJai

First thing is check your oil like the other guys suggested.
But it seems like you're running fine with the oil

Also, take a look at your TIMING CHAIN.
If it's loose, it'll also make a TICKING noise.

Jaws021

use oil flush for your next 2 oil changes and change your filter each time as well..


HLA ticking happens a lot to some nitrous guys for some weird reason..


i used to get it ALL the time..

Engine flush does wonders.. if it wont make the sound go away on the first oil change, it will definantly kill it on the second.

Also.. use 4 quarts of oil each time as well..


lubrication is also another factor in HLA ticking..

hope this helps..

Mad-Machine

if his timing chain is loose, he has worse issues to worry about than noise. The only chain on our cars is between the cams... no adjustment possible.. so if it is loose.. that is really bad.

The timing BELT is a different matter.

Zman

No, it's not the timing chain nor timing belt (the tensioner is actually what makes the noise related to the timing BELT).
I had previous experience changing timing belt and tensioners on my old Elantra; I changed then the chain and chain guards (or whatever the name of those little pieces is; the once that go up and down to prevent chain from touching other stuff if vibrating).
After I changed all that, my 60k miles Elantra felt like NEW, I'0m not exagerating, it purred like it did when it was 10k miles.
But this time I am sure it's one HLA what's making the noise, the weird thing is it makes the noise after driving conditions in which it is supossed to have charged, that's what I don't get.
How can I identify the one HLA that is making the sound? (assuming it's only one)?

Tibminn

My car is making the same noise, I've been wondering about it for awhile. I just have one question: whats an HLA?