Frozen Intake V.02
Ok, Im taking a break from studying for finals but check this out...
Im not sure if your familar with the entire intake system for the lanos but its pretty basic, the intake is hooked up to a stock airbox which is located on the left. The airbox is then hooked up to a resonator, its pretty restrictive actually.
Ok so heres what I want to do, in the resonator, I want to take a nice size of "Dry Ice" and place a chunk in the actual resonator box, if not one big chunk, possibly place pieces around the actual intake hole in the resonator. The only true modification that I might have to do is bore out the intake entry hole from the airbox to the resonator a little bit more to allow more of this "Dry Ice" air in and hollow out the resonator. So pretty much, the resonator will be used as a refridgeration device for the Dry Ice and pumping below zero air into the intake.
I think the best set up for this would be a ceramic coated 3" pipe going from the manifold to the stock airbox to keep the Sub-Zero effect happening all the way through. Here are some pics of the Lanos airbox and resonator
and the airbox...
Im not sure if your familar with the entire intake system for the lanos but its pretty basic, the intake is hooked up to a stock airbox which is located on the left. The airbox is then hooked up to a resonator, its pretty restrictive actually.
Ok so heres what I want to do, in the resonator, I want to take a nice size of "Dry Ice" and place a chunk in the actual resonator box, if not one big chunk, possibly place pieces around the actual intake hole in the resonator. The only true modification that I might have to do is bore out the intake entry hole from the airbox to the resonator a little bit more to allow more of this "Dry Ice" air in and hollow out the resonator. So pretty much, the resonator will be used as a refridgeration device for the Dry Ice and pumping below zero air into the intake.
I think the best set up for this would be a ceramic coated 3" pipe going from the manifold to the stock airbox to keep the Sub-Zero effect happening all the way through. Here are some pics of the Lanos airbox and resonator
and the airbox...
If you put "dry ice" which is made of CO2 in your intake would that not mess up everyting? As the normal air hits it sure it cools off but it also will pick up a bunch of carbon dioxide with it and that will cause problems with ignition or possibly even prevent it all together... Just my thoughts
Patrick
Patrick
No... Just think about what an engine does to make power... then kick yourself for asking this question wink
What he is saying is....
Your engine is an air pump... it burns the Oxygen in the air.. usually around 21% in volume in normal air.
When you run it through dry ice... ie... frozen CO2... You will displace normal (21% O2)air with CO2 (0% O2)... lowering your total Oxygen concentration of the intake air. Therefore less power.
It will truely F up your ECU / fueling... since the ECU bases the fuel maps on density of the air... it assumes 21% O2 concentration.
What he is saying is....
Your engine is an air pump... it burns the Oxygen in the air.. usually around 21% in volume in normal air.
When you run it through dry ice... ie... frozen CO2... You will displace normal (21% O2)air with CO2 (0% O2)... lowering your total Oxygen concentration of the intake air. Therefore less power.
It will truely F up your ECU / fueling... since the ECU bases the fuel maps on density of the air... it assumes 21% O2 concentration.
QUOTE
Cheuk in Seoul:
No... Just think about what an engine does to make power... then kick yourself for asking this question wink
What he is saying is....
Your engine is an air pump... it burns the Oxygen in the air.. usually around 21% in volume in normal air.
When you run it through dry ice... ie... frozen CO2... You will displace normal (21% O2)air with CO2 (0% O2)... lowering your total Oxygen concentration of the intake air. Therefore less power.
It will truely F up your ECU / fueling... since the ECU bases the fuel maps on density of the air... it assumes 21% O2 concentration.
Thanks Cheuk, Im glad to see that your still here No... Just think about what an engine does to make power... then kick yourself for asking this question wink
What he is saying is....
Your engine is an air pump... it burns the Oxygen in the air.. usually around 21% in volume in normal air.
When you run it through dry ice... ie... frozen CO2... You will displace normal (21% O2)air with CO2 (0% O2)... lowering your total Oxygen concentration of the intake air. Therefore less power.
It will truely F up your ECU / fueling... since the ECU bases the fuel maps on density of the air... it assumes 21% O2 concentration.
well you could do this if you would put a tube arround the tube that goes to the tb. That way air would run through the inner tube and the dry ice could be packed arround the inner tube. the same goes for the intake box too.
*sigh*
If you want the dry ice idea to work, you're gonna need to pinpoint the area in the intake stream where air would move the slowest. Airbox. Where the filter is. You're gonna have to refabricate the airbox out of sheet aluminium with 2 chambers and seal it to hold a fair amount of water. The inner chamber would hold the water, the outer chamber holds the dry ice. This setup also acts as one hell of a thermal barrier. you can also have crushed dry ice with the water if you want. You will propably have to convert to HVE's CF intake track to have this work though, running a CAI from under the battery tray, if you install the dry-ice box there the air will not have enough time to cool sufficiently for you to see much gain. You will have to upsize the intake route all the way through, make sure the airbox is large enough to DROP the incoming air velocity; it takes time to cool air;and yet have sufficient air volume to not starve the engine of air if and when you raise RPM quickly. You guessed it, you're gonna have to do a lot of math.
Good luck man, this system is only used when squeezing every last ounce of HP out of an engine. It's a PITA. And it's best backed up with Random's phenolic intake spacer for maximum thermal isolation.
If you want the dry ice idea to work, you're gonna need to pinpoint the area in the intake stream where air would move the slowest. Airbox. Where the filter is. You're gonna have to refabricate the airbox out of sheet aluminium with 2 chambers and seal it to hold a fair amount of water. The inner chamber would hold the water, the outer chamber holds the dry ice. This setup also acts as one hell of a thermal barrier. you can also have crushed dry ice with the water if you want. You will propably have to convert to HVE's CF intake track to have this work though, running a CAI from under the battery tray, if you install the dry-ice box there the air will not have enough time to cool sufficiently for you to see much gain. You will have to upsize the intake route all the way through, make sure the airbox is large enough to DROP the incoming air velocity; it takes time to cool air;and yet have sufficient air volume to not starve the engine of air if and when you raise RPM quickly. You guessed it, you're gonna have to do a lot of math.
Good luck man, this system is only used when squeezing every last ounce of HP out of an engine. It's a PITA. And it's best backed up with Random's phenolic intake spacer for maximum thermal isolation.



