have u only added fatter cabling for the main terminal or do u have the whole multi point earthing kit? make sure u check to see if there is any resistance in ur earthing loom. There shouldn't be any resistance, or very little. Where the negative conects to the chassy have u cleaned that area with sand paper then sealed it with wet and dry? I don't want to be a nuisance, but i did upgrade my earthing on my odl car, but the problem was that my solder joints were poor because i didn't have a gas solder. So i got my auto electrician to make me a new one and it worked. Your best bet is to go to a really good auto electrician. Don't got to the dealer.

 

I've added 2 extra 2AWG wires. I work on electronics for a living. It would be inappropriate for me to take it to an automotive electrician.

Would it be possible that my exhaust moving ever-so-slightly with very small clearance between the oil pan and the flange could be setting off my knock sensor?

 

Sounds alot like you have the exact same issues that I have with mine. I think the stutter was solved by the dielectric grease on the plug boots & cleaning your MAF, but the shakies at idle won't go away. I've been a mechanic for years, and the number one cause of poor idle concerns is a bad motor mount. However, since we've both "upgraded" our mounts to urethane, we've got a hellacious case of parkinson's disease for cars. I'm seriously about to go out right now and cut that urethane crap out of my front mount in hopes it will clear up, because I'm sure that not only is it causing damage to my interior (the rattles are just unbearable now), but it's also probably giving the knock sensor a reason to retard my spark, which is causing the engine to have a terrible transition off idle. I'm not messing with stiff motor mounts anymore. I'm going to get an engine damper which will hopefully give me a good median between comfort and performance.

As a side note, I liked the stiff urethane mounts for about 2 days. When the giddyness wore off, the shaking crawled under my skin. That's when I stopped tying to deny the fact that I had done something wrong damnit.gif

 

^^No. my engine mounts are fine. I've tried alot of different combinations. It seems that the best I've found is front = stock, rear = filled. I've been through alot of engine mounts lately.

Replaced plug wires - warranty replacement- no effect.
Reset ECU
Adjusted Idle so my idle RPM = ~900 by adjusting until the IAC cannot compensate

I had reset the ECU in the past by pulling the fuse and the power connector. It don't think it worked though.

IAC is completely closed now. It seems to make for a smoother ride. The computer can't say I'm going to drop your idle quickly while you're decellerating towards a stop. It likes to do that if I've been driving at 3KRPM and then let off the gas. Instead of coasting, it slows down quickly. It does not do that when I just get up to speed though. It got rid of some of the roughness


Now if I could just increase low end torque, I can't roll off the line without the engine wanting to die and RPMs going down near 100. Nor can I engauge the A/C without rpms dipping to about 500

Maybe I need a new IAC?

I looked up this information on HMAService.com


I'm reading
Terminal 1-2 = 13.7ohms
Terminal 2-3 = 12.8 ohms

I am out of tollerance by .3 ohms. Would anyone recommend replacing this component?


They specified temperature at 68F to conduct the reading. It is 65 now according to weather.com and it has started cooling off for the day. It would have been about 68F when I took those readings.

 

If you want to try it I have on in my fs post. I know it works perfect. I dont think that would be your issue though

 

Maybe... I think I might be under warranty on that part. I think I'll call on monday and ask them about it.

 

OK... After a trip to the junk yard, all my issues are resolved.
I went to a junk yard and got into "lets change random parts until this problem is resolved, because I don't give a f*** anymore mode"


I changed out my Intake air controller, I changed out my Fuel Pressure Regulator with a rusty junk yard one, still have to change that back now.. I changed out my front o2 sensor. I heard from someone on here that the ones from Autozone don't work.

After changing out my o2 sensor, my car is running like a dream again. here's the parts I've changed which made a difference/lessons learned

1. Breather hose was too long, causing oil vapor to pool up into drips, then run down to the filter, get revaporized, and dirty my MAF sensor. My bad.. I didn't know that would have been a problem.

2. New plug wires (5,000 miles old), reading EXCESSIVLY high ohm readings, 15,000 from the shortest one, which is like twice what it should read. They were bought at advanced auto parts. I bought the plug wires because they were blue. I talked to the manager, I returned them and bought the most expensive ones they had.

3. Motor mounts: were worn and causing excessive engine rolling when acellerating hard, which is actually what motivated me to start getting my car in perfect working order. Once I had changed them out and still had engine problems, it prompted me to start troubleshooting elsewhere

4. f*** autozone for front o2 sensors. You know what, just f*** autozone. I hate them. I spent so much time worrying about things that were completely unrelated. Rough transition from closed loop to open loop, I'd brickwall randomly, my engine sounded funny, my exhaust smelled badly. I do believe autozone has a rear o2 sensor instead of a front o2 sensor for bank1 sensor 1 on our cars. This caused my car to run very rich durring closed loop, and the transition from open loop to closed loop was very rough.

OBD-II did not detect the problem. In fact, the reason I changed it out was because one day my old o2 sensor up and died on me. Even though, it was replaced with a funked up autozone replacement, it ran better then before so I had no complaints. That o2 sensor complicated things so much, and there's no way you can test it either.

Now i've got to change out my FPR and my IAC because it feels dirty driving around with junkyard parts on my car. If you look at my engine, it's so clean and then those two pieces of rusty crap. Then after all of that, I've got to go to hyundai and spend $80 (yeah, military discount + shop discount for doing my work at the auto craft shop), to get a new o2 sensor because it also feels dirty.... Just to get back to where I was if i had never went to autozone.

Autozone would be happy to call it defective and give me another one... I think we as a community have established that autozone o2 sensors don't work. I'm not the first, it was said to me before. It fixed my problem and the CEL went out though.

I hate autozone. I hate those guys, I hate them so much. I really really hate them. I hate them with a passion. I hate them when I wake up. I hate them when I drive my car and realize it works so much better with OEM junkyard parts in it. I hate their return policy. I hate their parts. I hate their non-listening to suggestions asses. I hate them because you have to have a low IQ to work there. I hate them because they don't listen. I hate them because they suck. I hate them.

I wrote a haiku about it.

Autozone sucks balls
They really suck my balls hard.
I hate Autozone

 

haha.gif


I have a believer!!! The ONLY thing advance/autozone is good for is stupid random crap if they're closer and more convenient. (i.e. oil, a fuse, a can of silicone spray lube, etc.)

NEVER EVER EVER EVER EVER buy parts from them. They seriously have the shittiest most GOD-AWFUL cheapass parts that ever came out of China's ass crack. Probably smothered in lead-based paint too.

 

Most definately a believer. It tweaks me so badly. And you can't do anything to get them to upgrade/cary the correct part.

 

I know I may sound like a Hyundai puppet here, but there is a reason OEM parts are recommended for your car. They may be a little more expensive, but you don't have to deal with shit like this and they come with a 12/12 warranty. Saving a few bucks by running down to Autozone or Advanced Auto Parts is not worth the aggravation of dealing with crappy parts. I've seen too many people do that and then end up having to spend money for the OEM parts anyway, and by then they're usually really good and pissed off. I know not too much can be said for dealership techs, but if you buy the parts and do the work yourself, you shouldn't have problems.

ALL Autozone parts suck balls, but especially their electrical components. I haven't bought anything from them in over 8 years.

Oh, and DTN, just as an added note... You did a better diagnosis of your car than any of our clowns here would have done. There's only one tech I know that would have gone to the lengths you did, he's a Certified Master tech, and he doesn't work here anymore, he retired. He's one of the best I've ever seen.