DSM Fuel pump Q?
For a mild turbo app:
I found a junkyard deal on a practically new Eclipse GSX fuel pump.
Do I need anything else besides the pump? Can I reuse the connections (electrical, downspout, mounting bracket, etc)?
It's only $20, so I'm pretty happy, less than 10k miles on it. I just want to factor in "surprise items" that I may need.
ac
I found a junkyard deal on a practically new Eclipse GSX fuel pump.
Do I need anything else besides the pump? Can I reuse the connections (electrical, downspout, mounting bracket, etc)?
It's only $20, so I'm pretty happy, less than 10k miles on it. I just want to factor in "surprise items" that I may need.
ac
Hey Brendon, aren't you the Bosch fuel pump man to talk to? I think it was you that posted the flow rates of the different Bosch pumps available, to include your 255lph model.
I need to find that flow rate diagram again, as I'm going to need a pump that can do 165lph at 65psi...
Thanks!
-Red-
I need to find that flow rate diagram again, as I'm going to need a pump that can do 165lph at 65psi...
Thanks!
-Red-
instead of doing more N/A mods ... just add more nitrous man. sheeesh... its simple, save money.. add more nitrous. smile.gif
all those n/a mods wont do much unless you change cams like the other guys on here do... seems like the best combo is the 1.8L intake cam, and the Gt exhaust cam... i say forget them both, and bring up the jetting on the nitrous/fuel combination..
if you need a reference chart... go here and you'll find one that is for REAL.
http://www.pcrepairworld.com/nitrousworld
all those n/a mods wont do much unless you change cams like the other guys on here do... seems like the best combo is the 1.8L intake cam, and the Gt exhaust cam... i say forget them both, and bring up the jetting on the nitrous/fuel combination..
if you need a reference chart... go here and you'll find one that is for REAL.
http://www.pcrepairworld.com/nitrousworld
Well I think I'd like to build up my N/A stuff first though, then what I really like to do is to do a direct port nitrous shot of up to 100hp. But I have a feeling that I'm only dreaming.
I've started to read a lot about the direct port setup and it sounds perfect.
But I've got a lot more reading to do before I do anything like that, I'm not real sure on what I'd need to strengthen/upgrade besides pistons, fuel pump, maybe cams, and intake manifold, which I guess leads me to another question, is there anywhere that makes intake manifolds for the tib?
I've started to read a lot about the direct port setup and it sounds perfect.
But I've got a lot more reading to do before I do anything like that, I'm not real sure on what I'd need to strengthen/upgrade besides pistons, fuel pump, maybe cams, and intake manifold, which I guess leads me to another question, is there anywhere that makes intake manifolds for the tib?
i would say, that the weakest link in a tib/elantra engine is the pistons and the valves...
if i wanted to spray 100shot on a stock engine, i would definately upgrade to steel valves, and to forged pistons. i dont see any problem with the rods/crank or the head itself...
i think this motor can take nitrous better than lots of other import engines out there smile.gif
this comes from experience of working with lots of other cars too smile.gif ... and my 2.0L juiced elantra.
http://www.pcrepairworld.com/nitrousworld
if i wanted to spray 100shot on a stock engine, i would definately upgrade to steel valves, and to forged pistons. i dont see any problem with the rods/crank or the head itself...
i think this motor can take nitrous better than lots of other import engines out there smile.gif
this comes from experience of working with lots of other cars too smile.gif ... and my 2.0L juiced elantra.
http://www.pcrepairworld.com/nitrousworld
The valves are not weak; there are 500+WHP BETA engines running STOCK valves. Valves only burn when your tuning is bad... (ie detonation, very very high heat, et al)
The stock pistons are also very prone to heat and detonation damage -- specifically the heat will melt holes and the detonation will crack ring lands.
Nitrous runs VERY cold and the combustion temperatures show this. Using STOCK pistons and definately stock valves, you can probably run 120HP on a well-tuned system without issue. Those crazies in Puerto Rico run 150HP setups on their stock BETA motors.
If you want to run more than 125 safely, I would suggest upgrading pistons only because of the "shock" when you first activiate the system -- it may crack the ringlands. But nitrous works VERY well with high compression because of it's cooler temperatures and similarity to normal aspiration. You aren't FORCING more air (volume-wise) into the combustion chamber, you're FLOWING more oxygen instead (33% versus atmospheric ~15%)
N/A mods are very conducive to nitrous use for the most part, so I say go for it. Besides, do you only want to be "fast" when off the gas? It's always nice to have a quicker car even when you're off the bottle.
-Red-
The stock pistons are also very prone to heat and detonation damage -- specifically the heat will melt holes and the detonation will crack ring lands.
Nitrous runs VERY cold and the combustion temperatures show this. Using STOCK pistons and definately stock valves, you can probably run 120HP on a well-tuned system without issue. Those crazies in Puerto Rico run 150HP setups on their stock BETA motors.
If you want to run more than 125 safely, I would suggest upgrading pistons only because of the "shock" when you first activiate the system -- it may crack the ringlands. But nitrous works VERY well with high compression because of it's cooler temperatures and similarity to normal aspiration. You aren't FORCING more air (volume-wise) into the combustion chamber, you're FLOWING more oxygen instead (33% versus atmospheric ~15%)
N/A mods are very conducive to nitrous use for the most part, so I say go for it. Besides, do you only want to be "fast" when off the gas? It's always nice to have a quicker car even when you're off the bottle.
-Red-



