Don't Hone The Cylinder Bores For A Rering!
#1
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Thread Starter
For those who care, read this: Careful with That Hone, Eugene!
Cliffs for the ambivalent:
Don't re-hone cylinders when you are just replacing the piston rings, and use cast-iron rings.
Unless the cylinders are too far out of round or tapered, or you just have to use chrome rings. Then hone but go easy.
Once again my gut instincts were right on, and I will probably be just fine with a fresh set of rings on my old bores and 1.8L new-to-me pistons.
Discuss!
Cliffs for the ambivalent:
Don't re-hone cylinders when you are just replacing the piston rings, and use cast-iron rings.
Unless the cylinders are too far out of round or tapered, or you just have to use chrome rings. Then hone but go easy.
Once again my gut instincts were right on, and I will probably be just fine with a fresh set of rings on my old bores and 1.8L new-to-me pistons.
Discuss!
#2
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Agreed. Nothin more to it. Common Sense > Wives Tales (unless it's actually YOUR wife, in which case reverse to lesser than sign) wink1.gif
I cringed when I saw my buddy taking his grinding wheel to the cylinder walls after he removed the head. With the pistons still in the cylinders!
I cringed when I saw my buddy taking his grinding wheel to the cylinder walls after he removed the head. With the pistons still in the cylinders!
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What about in the case of a block that's had some outside exposure and has rust spots in the cylinder walls. A hone may be the only option.
#9
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Thread Starter
Depends on the rust. You may be able to get it out with a copper scouring pad and some WD-40. Then check carefully with your ID gauge to see if the rust spots messed up the bore. If you can run your fingernail over the spot where the rust used to be and it hangs up on the edge, you probably should hone it. Just go easy with the abrasives, and change the oil a lot during run-in.