Crank walk
Well it can happen to any engine with an improperly balanced/designed crankshaft, or an extremely worn one. Most cars don't really need to worry about it. I guess you wore the poor thing down too hard Jaws. tongue.gif
Well, it wasn't the Crank's fault. The Crank side thrust bearings were either installed wrong, or were the wrong size when they were installed.
To make a long story short, one of the side thrust bearings fell OUT (found it in the bottom of the oil pan BEFORE crank removal)! and the other got wedged between the block and the crank. let's see...iron block, steel crank, wimpy ass thrust bearing. Wanna guess who lost? The bearing gave it a good fight though. There was some minimal scoring on the block and crank, but the bearing sure took the "worst" of it. None of the parts were reuseable (crank, block, thrust bearing). but the crank/block did their job just fine.
To make a long story short, one of the side thrust bearings fell OUT (found it in the bottom of the oil pan BEFORE crank removal)! and the other got wedged between the block and the crank. let's see...iron block, steel crank, wimpy ass thrust bearing. Wanna guess who lost? The bearing gave it a good fight though. There was some minimal scoring on the block and crank, but the bearing sure took the "worst" of it. None of the parts were reuseable (crank, block, thrust bearing). but the crank/block did their job just fine.
http://www.hyundaiaftermarket.org/images/vendor1.png


Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,500
Likes: 0
From: Canada
Vehicle: x3 accent gk tiburon santa fe
i'seen that on a 1st gen 2.0 also,
the trust washer was installed backwards (our guess) this caused the trust surface to run without any lubrification
2nd DSM have this problem quite often, but on beta i've seen it only once
to comfirm if you have crankwalk or not,
simply put a prybar between the frame and cran kpulley, pry the crank pulley toward the engine,then place the pry bar between the engine and crank pulley and pry the pulley toward the frame of the car,
crank shouldn't move much more the 0.005",so movement should barely be perceptible
the trust washer was installed backwards (our guess) this caused the trust surface to run without any lubrification
2nd DSM have this problem quite often, but on beta i've seen it only once
to comfirm if you have crankwalk or not,
simply put a prybar between the frame and cran kpulley, pry the crank pulley toward the engine,then place the pry bar between the engine and crank pulley and pry the pulley toward the frame of the car,
crank shouldn't move much more the 0.005",so movement should barely be perceptible
Well, if anyone else runs into these problems, check inside your oil pan. I'm glad I finally found what the source of my problems has been.

I took these to the dealer and as soon as the mechanic saw em he said I need a new engine. He also said this problem isn't all too uncommon on our cars, as he's seen it several times before. The service rep said he just has to clear some things with the big guys to get me a new engine under the 100kmile warranty wink1.gif
I took these to the dealer and as soon as the mechanic saw em he said I need a new engine. He also said this problem isn't all too uncommon on our cars, as he's seen it several times before. The service rep said he just has to clear some things with the big guys to get me a new engine under the 100kmile warranty wink1.gif
a_gut
Yup, that's what the problem looks like when they installed the wrong thrust washers or installed them the wrong way. More than likely been like that since the car was new. It's not "crank walk" in the classic definition of the term, but I suppose you could call it that. The real problem lies within the assembly of the motor, and observing proper tolerances. If you got a "sloppy" motor from the factory, that's the result.
Yup, that's what the problem looks like when they installed the wrong thrust washers or installed them the wrong way. More than likely been like that since the car was new. It's not "crank walk" in the classic definition of the term, but I suppose you could call it that. The real problem lies within the assembly of the motor, and observing proper tolerances. If you got a "sloppy" motor from the factory, that's the result.


