Engine, Intake, Exhaust Modifications to your Normally Aspirated Hyundai engine. Cold Air Intakes, Spark Plugs/wires, Cat back Exhaust...etc.

Crank walk

Thread Tools
 
Old Mar 24, 2005 | 12:18 PM
  #11  
hamhead's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 4,722
Likes: 0
Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon
Default

Well it can happen to any engine with an improperly balanced/designed crankshaft, or an extremely worn one. Most cars don't really need to worry about it. I guess you wore the poor thing down too hard Jaws. tongue.gif
Reply
Old Mar 24, 2005 | 12:33 PM
  #12  
Jaws021's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,005
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles
Default

i never used the engine..

i had it for ummm... *experimenting* purposes...
wink1.gif
Reply
Old Mar 24, 2005 | 11:50 PM
  #13  
albert's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 910
Likes: 0
From: Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
Default

Well, it wasn't the Crank's fault. The Crank side thrust bearings were either installed wrong, or were the wrong size when they were installed.

To make a long story short, one of the side thrust bearings fell OUT (found it in the bottom of the oil pan BEFORE crank removal)! and the other got wedged between the block and the crank. let's see...iron block, steel crank, wimpy ass thrust bearing. Wanna guess who lost? The bearing gave it a good fight though. There was some minimal scoring on the block and crank, but the bearing sure took the "worst" of it. None of the parts were reuseable (crank, block, thrust bearing). but the crank/block did their job just fine.
Reply
Old Mar 26, 2005 | 12:36 AM
  #14  
Denisst99's Avatar
http://www.hyundaiaftermarket.org/images/vendor1.png
 
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,500
Likes: 0
From: Canada
Vehicle: x3 accent gk tiburon santa fe
Default

i'seen that on a 1st gen 2.0 also,
the trust washer was installed backwards (our guess) this caused the trust surface to run without any lubrification

2nd DSM have this problem quite often, but on beta i've seen it only once

to comfirm if you have crankwalk or not,
simply put a prybar between the frame and cran kpulley, pry the crank pulley toward the engine,then place the pry bar between the engine and crank pulley and pry the pulley toward the frame of the car,
crank shouldn't move much more the 0.005",so movement should barely be perceptible
Reply
Old Apr 11, 2005 | 05:28 PM
  #15  
a_gut's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 575
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix, AZ
Default

Well, if anyone else runs into these problems, check inside your oil pan. I'm glad I finally found what the source of my problems has been.



I took these to the dealer and as soon as the mechanic saw em he said I need a new engine. He also said this problem isn't all too uncommon on our cars, as he's seen it several times before. The service rep said he just has to clear some things with the big guys to get me a new engine under the 100kmile warranty wink1.gif
Reply
Old Apr 11, 2005 | 05:36 PM
  #16  
silvertibbs's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,832
Likes: 0
From: Fort Erie, Ontario
Vehicle: 2004 Acura TL
Default

So what is it???
Reply
Old Apr 11, 2005 | 07:01 PM
  #17  
albert's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 910
Likes: 0
From: Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
Default

a_gut

Yup, that's what the problem looks like when they installed the wrong thrust washers or installed them the wrong way. More than likely been like that since the car was new. It's not "crank walk" in the classic definition of the term, but I suppose you could call it that. The real problem lies within the assembly of the motor, and observing proper tolerances. If you got a "sloppy" motor from the factory, that's the result.
Reply
Old Jun 1, 2005 | 01:14 AM
  #18  
albert's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 910
Likes: 0
From: Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
Default

Update and questions here
http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtop...64&#entry122264
Reply




All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:29 AM.