Anyone know what's with the sudden rush of headers on ebay? Just search "tiburon header" and you'll see a lot of headers, some of which are very cheap (like under $100 shipped!). They look just like the OBXs, but I don't know whether they are OBX or not. I also have no idea if they fit right (or are like the SSAutochromes whose flange needed to be trimmed). One of the ads even mentioned the downpipe was 2.25", but I think that was a mistake (in the pic it looked the same).. Any ideas? I'm looking to get some headers, was waiting for the flyryde ones, but if these are so cheap I'm thinking of trying them out..

I've asked a seller who makes them, i'll post the answer if I get one..

Radu

 

I never trimmed the flange on my SSA ones. Im sure they are just the same ones made by someone else. Quality is the same in sure, which isnt that good. Someone just found a way to do it cheaper. I would give them a shot if I needed headers for anything.

 

There was a DIY on here in which the flange needed trimming. If I'm not mistaken, DTN had to trim some other piece of metal the flange was rubbing against.

I got an answer from a seller, and I will quote the entire message: "no brand" LOL

 

Somebody on ElantraXD bought a set, and the quality is really pretty crappy. Welds are fine, design isn't so great, though.Header post on EXD, page 2 for pics.

 

I had a SSautochrome header when i first got my tib and i didnt have to trim it either. I didn't even know there was issue there, they seemed to work great for me when i had it.

 

the sellers aren't going to give you any info (reliable info) on the product. odds are that they never even see the product.

the headers on ebay are mostly all the same garbage.

the only obx header to my knowledge that fit on the rd2 RIGHT OUT OF the box with NO modifications was the 4-1 header that was produced for a short time.

most of the stuff on ebay now is for a rd1 and won't have a long enough down pipe for rd2.

quality of headers is like a C+. (most aren't even SS, crappy paint, mediocre fitment)
bang for buck is like a B (MUCH better looking and performing that stock, under 150$)
performance for buck is like a B+ (cheapest headers you can get and pretty good gains)

 

are you saying that these won't even fit? the downpipe is too short? I thought rd1s and rd2s were the same (same 2nd cat location)

 

I did a lot or research on exhaust for my car. A lot of people have problems with the down pipe being the wrong length and the o2 sensor needing to be extended. From all the research I've learned that these headers are cheap and put it this way you get what you pay for. (they sound very very buzzy, like bee's in your exhaust)(also who knows about the welds), I don't trust ebay anymore i would look at importshark.com or sharkracing.com .

 

^^ haha.gif You have not done your research.

The reason for sensor extension is you REMOVE the first catalytic converter. The 2nd o2 sensor then needs to be relocated into the exhaust stream after the 2nd catalytic converter. You have to reloacte the 1st o2 sensor because the stock manifold joins together 3" from the exhaust ports. Any decent header will join at least 1 foot from the exhaust ports. You're modifying the entire obd-II emissions if you put on any header without relocating the sensors and you will throw codes.

Alot of people who have "buzzy" exhausts have exhaust leaks. Mine do not buzz. They are headers. they are supposed to sound like a tone instead of a fluff from a manifold.



Some look different then my headers. On my headers I've got 2 o2 bungs, one at the top on cylendar 4's port and one on the test pipe for the 2nd o2 sensor. I'd go for the one that only has one on the header, then do a sensor relocation. It's pointless to have an o2 sensor on cylindar 4. Just put the 1st in the full exhaust stream and the 2nd one after the catalytic converter.

But yeah, on mine, the flange rests against the engine brace, either you reduce the size of the flange or you cut the brace. I just cut into the brace and removed a 50 cent sized piece of it. It allows for enough clearance for the oversized flange. I did not want to deal with an exhaust leak so I removed the portion of the brace instead. It won't hurt anything.

We are smarter then the engineers who designed the equpment. We can identify the parts which serve no purpose and remove them from the system while conducting maintenance operations. This is the exact reason we sometimes end up with extra parts.

 

I guess I never knew of any fitment issues at all. I had 4-2-1s and they bolted right up for me. I would try these if I was in the market for headers. I need to find a decent stock manifold though for now.