Car Stalls, Won't Start
05-28-2007, 02:18 AM
#61
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Honestly I got my wideband from the GM/Pontiac dealership for 415$ and that came with the guage for it as well. Yes its a little more expensive but for what it will do. Its worth it. You wont get a cell because you moved your first o2 sensor it just thinks the motor isnt getting enough gas and dumps more... it cant tell that the wires are longer and that it has been moved.
05-29-2007, 08:01 AM
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couple things real quick.....
cleaned iac valve very very dirty...
pulled the car out of the garage and let it idle...
and it ran for about twenty minutes before it quit. cleaning the iac valve caused it to seal better.... but I think now I can safely say it is probably the first o2 sensor. that is either 1.defective or 2.too far back.... (when the shop took out the 1st o2 sensor out of the old cat they had to heat it up with a torch...could that have damaged it????)
is it normal not to get a cel though?
alright everbody.. I know this seems like the post that never ends... but I think I have norrowed it down to the firsr o2.
when I first had the headers installed I was driving with only the 2nd o2 in the exhaust.... I left the first one unhooked from the wire harness. I drove the car a litlle under a week like that...
after realizing I needed a cat a had one installed and reinstalled the first o2 in the exhaust.
however when the shop took out the sensor he heated with his welding torch....and he fried the sensor. is there any way I can tell if the sensor is bad? or should I just buy one from a junkyard?
cleaned iac valve very very dirty...
pulled the car out of the garage and let it idle...
and it ran for about twenty minutes before it quit. cleaning the iac valve caused it to seal better.... but I think now I can safely say it is probably the first o2 sensor. that is either 1.defective or 2.too far back.... (when the shop took out the 1st o2 sensor out of the old cat they had to heat it up with a torch...could that have damaged it????)
is it normal not to get a cel though?
alright everbody.. I know this seems like the post that never ends... but I think I have norrowed it down to the firsr o2.
when I first had the headers installed I was driving with only the 2nd o2 in the exhaust.... I left the first one unhooked from the wire harness. I drove the car a litlle under a week like that...
after realizing I needed a cat a had one installed and reinstalled the first o2 in the exhaust.
however when the shop took out the sensor he heated with his welding torch....and he fried the sensor. is there any way I can tell if the sensor is bad? or should I just buy one from a junkyard?
05-31-2007, 06:37 AM
#63
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alright I took my tib down to the shop this morning and had the ecu scanned. the maf was def reading almost double what it should be....but the scan brought up a bigger problem!
during the scan the guy could not figure out why the scanner kept shorting out everytime the car stalled....
he checked the wires and they where getting electricty
and the he checked the fuel injectors....bam as soon as the engine stalled and I tried to restart it... he realized NO ELECTRICTY.
my heart sunk.... bad ecu....
I am checking the grounds for the ecu right now but I fear its too late for that.
I know I should search first... but I will ask anyway. can I use an ecu from a 2000 if mine is bad?
I never could imagin that my ecu would ever go but hey 200000+ miles isn't too bad right?
during the scan the guy could not figure out why the scanner kept shorting out everytime the car stalled....
he checked the wires and they where getting electricty
and the he checked the fuel injectors....bam as soon as the engine stalled and I tried to restart it... he realized NO ELECTRICTY.
my heart sunk.... bad ecu....
I am checking the grounds for the ecu right now but I fear its too late for that.
I know I should search first... but I will ask anyway. can I use an ecu from a 2000 if mine is bad?
I never could imagin that my ecu would ever go but hey 200000+ miles isn't too bad right?
05-31-2007, 08:33 AM
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so the engine size doesn't matter when replacing the ecu.... hmm .... very interesting.... so the 39110-23940 1.8 ECU Rev B should work fine in my car if the ecu is truly the problem?
that's great news for me
that's great news for me
06-01-2007, 04:01 PM
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Vehicle: 1998/Hyundai/Tiburon FX
That was a lot of reading!!!
Yes, using an ecu from the above models and years will be fine.
It seems like your misfire is rather random, I sincerely doubt that any o2 sensor issues would cause the vehicle to run that badly, you could disconnect them both and the car would run smoothly, just a little rich.
It's actually a good thing to change your plugs every 2 oil changes, if you want to, do it, it sure as hell cant hurt anything but your wallet, and it allows you to keep an eye on what is going on in each individual cylinder. A good thing when you have that many miles on an engine. I don't think I have ever heard of a beta with over 200k on it, way to go!!! LOL.
I doubt it is going to be the ecu, and if it is, it was probably caused by something, you had better check the wiring of those o2 sensors with a chilton and an ecu pinout to ensure they were installed correctly.
You should be able to grab an ecu from a junkyard for under 50 bucks, I suppose it is worth a try at this point, but you might as well grab another MAF and IAC motor assembly while your at it (if they are cheap). Check the wiring for the MAF as well, make sure no wires are shorted out, if they are, that would be the solution to your problem. Also, if the intake piping breaks or comes loose after the maf (so your engine is getting unread air), your car will definately stall at idle or light throttle, if not all the time.
Could you describe in detail the current symptoms of the vehicle?
Yes, using an ecu from the above models and years will be fine.
It seems like your misfire is rather random, I sincerely doubt that any o2 sensor issues would cause the vehicle to run that badly, you could disconnect them both and the car would run smoothly, just a little rich.
It's actually a good thing to change your plugs every 2 oil changes, if you want to, do it, it sure as hell cant hurt anything but your wallet, and it allows you to keep an eye on what is going on in each individual cylinder. A good thing when you have that many miles on an engine. I don't think I have ever heard of a beta with over 200k on it, way to go!!! LOL.
I doubt it is going to be the ecu, and if it is, it was probably caused by something, you had better check the wiring of those o2 sensors with a chilton and an ecu pinout to ensure they were installed correctly.
You should be able to grab an ecu from a junkyard for under 50 bucks, I suppose it is worth a try at this point, but you might as well grab another MAF and IAC motor assembly while your at it (if they are cheap). Check the wiring for the MAF as well, make sure no wires are shorted out, if they are, that would be the solution to your problem. Also, if the intake piping breaks or comes loose after the maf (so your engine is getting unread air), your car will definately stall at idle or light throttle, if not all the time.
Could you describe in detail the current symptoms of the vehicle?
06-01-2007, 06:52 PM
#67
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hey thanks for that tdonnell.
well here is what it did with the scanner hooked up
the car will start up fine....
at cold idle if you press the gas a little the rpms will drop to 500-300 then jump back up and acclerate very choppy. I know part of this is because there is a bad maf!!!!! per cel. the maf is reading 180-200 g...something (can't remember measurement). I know very bad.
the throttle reads that it is @ 9.00 something. this is one thing I am still researching. I don't know if that is normal or not....I sense a bad tps if it isn't!!!!
however...
after the car heats up without messing with the gas.... the car will stall and the at the same time or little after the ecu will shut off!
monitering both the spark and fuel injectors and ecu....
right after car quits ecu kicks back on. try restarting the plenty of spark! NO POWER to fuel injectors. not only that but when you turn the key to start the car the ecu turns off (scanner reads: trying to connect with ecu. make sure key is in with ignition on) adapted of course smile.gif
let the car cool down....
and you get ELECTRICTY to the feul injectors and car will run untill it stalls after heating up.(cool down is right at the C on dummy gauge.
this is flippen weird. I checked all the grounds and they are fine. my mech uses the excuse it over 200000 miles things are going to start breaking ... what ev
will car is warming up at idle fine. idles at around 800
well here is what it did with the scanner hooked up
the car will start up fine....
at cold idle if you press the gas a little the rpms will drop to 500-300 then jump back up and acclerate very choppy. I know part of this is because there is a bad maf!!!!! per cel. the maf is reading 180-200 g...something (can't remember measurement). I know very bad.
the throttle reads that it is @ 9.00 something. this is one thing I am still researching. I don't know if that is normal or not....I sense a bad tps if it isn't!!!!
however...
after the car heats up without messing with the gas.... the car will stall and the at the same time or little after the ecu will shut off!
monitering both the spark and fuel injectors and ecu....
right after car quits ecu kicks back on. try restarting the plenty of spark! NO POWER to fuel injectors. not only that but when you turn the key to start the car the ecu turns off (scanner reads: trying to connect with ecu. make sure key is in with ignition on) adapted of course smile.gif
let the car cool down....
and you get ELECTRICTY to the feul injectors and car will run untill it stalls after heating up.(cool down is right at the C on dummy gauge.
this is flippen weird. I checked all the grounds and they are fine. my mech uses the excuse it over 200000 miles things are going to start breaking ... what ev
will car is warming up at idle fine. idles at around 800
06-01-2007, 10:01 PM
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No prob.
The you cannot connect to the ecu when starting the vehicle because all battery power is transferred to the starter, in the on position before or after car is running, not during the starting process.
The no power to the injectors is wierd, I guess it really could be the ecu, is there a competant tech working on the vehicle, a local shop?
If the tps is reading 9% when at 0%, something is wrong, same thing with the maf, I think the denomination you are looking for is mm/hg or something like that.
Anyway, try to get a j/y ecu and throw it in, it could fix all your problems, it might not, worth a shot if you ask me (unless they want 100+ for it, lol).
Good luck man.
BTW, might not be a bad idea to do a compression test.
The you cannot connect to the ecu when starting the vehicle because all battery power is transferred to the starter, in the on position before or after car is running, not during the starting process.
The no power to the injectors is wierd, I guess it really could be the ecu, is there a competant tech working on the vehicle, a local shop?
If the tps is reading 9% when at 0%, something is wrong, same thing with the maf, I think the denomination you are looking for is mm/hg or something like that.
Anyway, try to get a j/y ecu and throw it in, it could fix all your problems, it might not, worth a shot if you ask me (unless they want 100+ for it, lol).
Good luck man.
BTW, might not be a bad idea to do a compression test.
06-02-2007, 12:53 PM
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alright changed maf iac tps and ecu....still I have the same problem. after the car hits operating and stalls I checked the wires and feul injectors wire for power. plenty of spark....but no power to the feul injectors.
car will still misfire will driving then as soon as you stop or take the car out of gear it quits
car will still misfire will driving then as soon as you stop or take the car out of gear it quits
06-02-2007, 03:52 PM
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Find an ecu pinout and check for continuity between each injector wire and the ecu side of the harness, maybe there is a short or broken wire, but if that was the case, why only when the car gets hot?