Car Stalling After 30 Minutes Of Normal Driving.
Senior Member

Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 34,642
Likes: 0
From: Los Lunas, New Mexico, USA.
Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon, 2004 Kia Sorento, 2010 Kia Soul
To add cruise, you need to get a spare pulley from someone like Mad John, then install it on next to the pulley on the TB.
Senior Member

Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,764
Likes: 0
From: South Korea where u car from fool
Vehicle: 2008/Hyundai/Tiburon gt
I am leaning towards the coils myself. so after 30 mins of driveing it starts to cut out..
check the following
1.coil
2. tps/isc
3. map sensor
4. cam/crank postion sensor
5. 02 sensor
when was the last time you changed the fuel filter and or fuel pump
check the following
1.coil
2. tps/isc
3. map sensor
4. cam/crank postion sensor
5. 02 sensor
when was the last time you changed the fuel filter and or fuel pump
Hey guys.
I changed the spark plugs and the problem seems to have gotten worse.
I changed the plugs yesterday night and today morning this is what happened during a 40 km trip.
Everything was good for 1st 20 km's of driving.
Then i started to feel the car in idle it would blip down for a sec and come up.
But still drivable so i kept driving.
The traffic got a bit bad(and car warmer) and that was when my problem happened.
The car felt like the when you have no petrol in the tank.
Eventually after a few minutes i had to pull over because the car just died.
When i tried to start it, It wouldnt even turn over.
So i let it stay for 2-3 mins off. The turned the key again and it would turn over but not start.
Left it for longer and tried starting but went off straight away even if i had it on WOT to prevent it from dying.
I left it for another 5-10 mins and started and it came alive after cranking over a few time.
I kept my foot on the gas the whole way and then the RPM went up slow and then faster at 4000 RPM.
After 4000RPM the car feels like normal.
I also found that i had to rev the car to 5000 and then let the clutch go in order to get moving cos the car has no power.
The car has no power...
The car died out once more on the way and same story..
Im really frustrated... This is my daily and i didnt even do any mods...
The following were changed a few days ago.
FUEL PUMP & FILTER
COIL PACK
PLUG WIRES
TPS
CRANK SENSOR
My brother told me it could be the coolent temperature sensor. He said when the car is cold it will make the fuel mixture rich
and lean it out when the engine is hot.
So the things that i have not changed yet that you guys suggested is:
IAC
PCV Valve
CAM SENSOR
Im waiting for advice. I am at my shop now and i have the IAC and Coolent temp sensore ready to go in but ill wait till you guys reply and change them.
Thanks
I changed the spark plugs and the problem seems to have gotten worse.
I changed the plugs yesterday night and today morning this is what happened during a 40 km trip.
Everything was good for 1st 20 km's of driving.
Then i started to feel the car in idle it would blip down for a sec and come up.
But still drivable so i kept driving.
The traffic got a bit bad(and car warmer) and that was when my problem happened.
The car felt like the when you have no petrol in the tank.
Eventually after a few minutes i had to pull over because the car just died.
When i tried to start it, It wouldnt even turn over.
So i let it stay for 2-3 mins off. The turned the key again and it would turn over but not start.
Left it for longer and tried starting but went off straight away even if i had it on WOT to prevent it from dying.
I left it for another 5-10 mins and started and it came alive after cranking over a few time.
I kept my foot on the gas the whole way and then the RPM went up slow and then faster at 4000 RPM.
After 4000RPM the car feels like normal.
I also found that i had to rev the car to 5000 and then let the clutch go in order to get moving cos the car has no power.
The car has no power...
The car died out once more on the way and same story..
Im really frustrated... This is my daily and i didnt even do any mods...
The following were changed a few days ago.
FUEL PUMP & FILTER
COIL PACK
PLUG WIRES
TPS
CRANK SENSOR
My brother told me it could be the coolent temperature sensor. He said when the car is cold it will make the fuel mixture rich
and lean it out when the engine is hot.
So the things that i have not changed yet that you guys suggested is:
IAC
PCV Valve
CAM SENSOR
Im waiting for advice. I am at my shop now and i have the IAC and Coolent temp sensore ready to go in but ill wait till you guys reply and change them.
Thanks
wait.....
so you swapped the head, had problems in the cylinders, then put it COMPELTELY back to stock?
after putting it back to stock, the problems arised. Could something have been damaged with the previous head? damage in the cylinders maybe?
is there anything different about the car now, compared to BEFORE the head/cam swap?
If the TPS was a bad Dae-Sung, and he swapped it with another Dae-Sung, I would think the problem would change a little if it was the TPS causing the problem. I also wouldn't think the Dae-Sung would go bad so fast, I thought it took time? It's definitely important to know which TPS was used though.
so you swapped the head, had problems in the cylinders, then put it COMPELTELY back to stock?
after putting it back to stock, the problems arised. Could something have been damaged with the previous head? damage in the cylinders maybe?
is there anything different about the car now, compared to BEFORE the head/cam swap?
If the TPS was a bad Dae-Sung, and he swapped it with another Dae-Sung, I would think the problem would change a little if it was the TPS causing the problem. I also wouldn't think the Dae-Sung would go bad so fast, I thought it took time? It's definitely important to know which TPS was used though.
Senior Member

Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 34,642
Likes: 0
From: Los Lunas, New Mexico, USA.
Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon, 2004 Kia Sorento, 2010 Kia Soul
I just remember that there was someone recently who swapped their bad TPS for a newer 2004 or so TPS and had to modify it to do so, but I don't remember if that was this guy.
Moderator


Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 11,732
Likes: 5
From: Leesville, Louisiana
Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon
You havn't mentioned changing the spark plugs. That should have been the step in troubleshooting, before the wires. Changing spark plugs and verifying gap if they don't work.
^ DTN, his first post:
QUOTE (daneeboy83 @ Dec 1 2008, 12:05 AM)
So the Fuel is not burning properly?
So i changed the plugs, wires, coils, fuel pump...
The problem is still there...
I think it might be the IAC?
My car is Map based so maybe the Map Sensor?
So i changed the plugs, wires, coils, fuel pump...
The problem is still there...
I think it might be the IAC?
My car is Map based so maybe the Map Sensor?
Guys I was stuck again on the way home during traffic.
I had to pull over after 10km's of driving because the car would not move.
The engine died and then when i tried to start it would only crank but not start.
Also if i pumped the accelerator pedal whilst trying to start i heard popping sounds in the exhaust.
I think it called backfire?
I changed my IAC before i left work to a new
Redzman i swopped it for a Kefico which is the good one.
Majik there is nothing wrong with block. The mechanic did check it when he removed the faulty head.
There is nothing wrong mechanically... When the car is cold to warm it runs great.
When the car gets hot then it bogs little by little eventually switching off.
And will not start...
Well it does seem like the fuel pump but that was changed a few days ago..
I did change this DTN. Thanks for your post though.
Guys i felt like tearing my hair out today when i was in traffic and other cars were passing me..
What an embarresment. Hehe. Its the 1st time in 200 000km that my car has done this...
I think ill swap back my old IAC since its not the IAC.
Only 2 other things i think it can be.. MAP Sensor or Cam Sensor.
My car has no power when it starts bogging out.
Once the car catches momentum there is no problem.. Even while its bogging if i can catch momentum then it becomes fine.
Combustion is not happening properly at lower revs..
This is all i can think of.
Tomorrow the car is going back to mechanic. Hopefully he will sort it out.
Thanks Again for your help!!!
I had to pull over after 10km's of driving because the car would not move.
The engine died and then when i tried to start it would only crank but not start.
Also if i pumped the accelerator pedal whilst trying to start i heard popping sounds in the exhaust.
I think it called backfire?
I changed my IAC before i left work to a new
QUOTE
Tell me about your TPS. You just replaced it. what did you replace it with? What model/brand name? New?
Redzman i swopped it for a Kefico which is the good one.
QUOTE
so you swapped the head, had problems in the cylinders, then put it COMPELTELY back to stock?
after putting it back to stock, the problems arised. Could something have been damaged with the previous head? damage in the cylinders maybe?
is there anything different about the car now, compared to BEFORE the head/cam swap?
after putting it back to stock, the problems arised. Could something have been damaged with the previous head? damage in the cylinders maybe?
is there anything different about the car now, compared to BEFORE the head/cam swap?
Majik there is nothing wrong with block. The mechanic did check it when he removed the faulty head.
There is nothing wrong mechanically... When the car is cold to warm it runs great.
When the car gets hot then it bogs little by little eventually switching off.
And will not start...
QUOTE
Improbable failure: fuel pump heat soak?
Well it does seem like the fuel pump but that was changed a few days ago..
QUOTE
You havn't mentioned changing the spark plugs. That should have been the step in troubleshooting, before the wires. Changing spark plugs and verifying gap if they don't work.
I did change this DTN. Thanks for your post though.
Guys i felt like tearing my hair out today when i was in traffic and other cars were passing me..
What an embarresment. Hehe. Its the 1st time in 200 000km that my car has done this...
I think ill swap back my old IAC since its not the IAC.
Only 2 other things i think it can be.. MAP Sensor or Cam Sensor.
My car has no power when it starts bogging out.
Once the car catches momentum there is no problem.. Even while its bogging if i can catch momentum then it becomes fine.
Combustion is not happening properly at lower revs..
This is all i can think of.
Tomorrow the car is going back to mechanic. Hopefully he will sort it out.
Thanks Again for your help!!!




