Engine, Intake, Exhaust Modifications to your Normally Aspirated Hyundai engine. Cold Air Intakes, Spark Plugs/wires, Cat back Exhaust...etc.

Car Stalling After 30 Minutes Of Normal Driving.

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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 11:05 PM
  #1  
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Hey guys,
I finally managed to get my car back to normal.
As some of you will know i went through hell when i did the ported head(Spare top) and 1.8 Intake camshaft Modification.
So I got fed up and put my old head on back on and away with the ported one.

Apparently the ported head was not getting oil pressure to the valves that work in piston chamber 2&3.
So my new cams got screwed..
Anyone know why this can happen?

THE PROBLEM
So i got my car back and it drives good with the old stuff like it did before.
Only 1 thing. After i drive it for 30-40 mins normally in traffic then all of a sudden something happens.
The car hesitates to be in the low RPM area. So from stop to go it is difficult. When the RPM increases it is better.
Sounds like a subaru even at WOT at low speed and high gears(Therefore at low RPM's)... And the power is gone.
Once i was on the Highway and on a downhill so i let the car roll on neutral. Then the Car switched off.. I was like WTF!!!
I think if i keep driving it gets worse and probably will die completely.
And when this happens i smell fuel in the car coming from outside.

So the Fuel is not burning properly?
So i changed the plugs, wires, coils, fuel pump...
The problem is still there...
I think it might be the IAC?
My car is Map based so maybe the Map Sensor?

Thanks For reading!
Waiting advice..
In the meanwhile searching
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 12:09 AM
  #2  
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I had a similar problem. Car randomly shut off on me when driving normally.

For me it ended up being a fuse arcing. check the voltages on all ur fuses maybe?
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 02:18 AM
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Thanks for reply.
I really dont think its arcs in the fuses.
I am leaning toward the Map sensor TPS or IAC..
I do smell fuel when the car bogs...
I am carrying a IAC in the car so as soon as it happens i will swap it out.
When i unplug the IAC when the car is idling the RPM's drop..
But i should test it when the car is hot.


Can anyone give me descriptions of what will make my car have fuel smell when bogging?
And keep my car bogging at low RPM AT partial or WOT.
1. Map Sensor
2. IAC
3. TPS (i doubt this will cause fuel smell)

Thanks
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 07:09 AM
  #4  
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what about your wires/coilpacks?
  1. Does it happen every time you've been driving for 20-30 minutes?
  2. Can you make the problem happen by doing something?
  3. Can you make it NOT happen?
  4. Will it start back up after it bogs and dies?
  5. Is it after 20-30 minutes of cold driving, or any driving?
  6. Is it when you're at a stop or slowing down, or can it happen with you driving 50mph?

If it keeps happening at the 20-30 minute mark, it's likely something that happens after 20-30 minutes (engine finally warms up?). Pay attention to all other factors that could be happening at the same time. It totally sounds like a fuel and/or spark related problem.

My Crank Positioning Sensor was loose after having my transmission replaced, and I drove it 25 miles on the interstate and 5 off the interstate, and it suddenly DIED within half a mile of my house. It wouldn't turn over until the engine was cold. I guess the sensor doesn't do anything til the engine warms up? It could be something similar in your situation (a sensor).
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 10:11 AM
  #5  
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Hey 1st of all thanks for looking in my thread.
Now answers and what i experienced on the way back.

QUOTE
what about your wires/coilpacks?


Does it happen every time you've been driving for 20-30 minutes?
1. Can you make the problem happen by doing something?
2. Can you make it NOT happen?
3. Will it start back up after it bogs and dies?
4. Is it after 20-30 minutes of cold driving, or any driving?
5. Is it when you're at a stop or slowing down, or can it happen with you driving 50mph?


Answers
1. Yes it does
2. Yes driving in the highway i dont experience it. Only in 1st gear.
3. It never dies... Its just when i try pull off in 1st and i didnt give enough gas before depressing the clutch.
4. After 30-40mins of cold driving. If its warm problem starts earlier.
5. It doesnt happen once speed is gained.

Ok this is what i noticed on a 60km drive home from work during traffic.
The car was fine all the distance. Thats probably because i didnt have come to complete stops.
The car only started to bog when i was nearly home. At the Robots.
So problem only happens at Initial Motion.
When i got in my driveway i left the engine on and gave the accelerator little fast tap i noticed when the revs fall the exhaust goes (Burp Burp) on the way down
Thats odd. I do have a larger diameter exhaust but not too loud and the CAT is out.


What i think problem is:
IAC or water temperature sensor?
What you guys think?
Oh and i do keep smelling alot of fuel coming from my car.. Even on the highway...


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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 10:55 AM
  #6  
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Try to lower your RPM. If you made an adjustment to your RPM, the IAC tries to compensate, it does this by raising your RPM and lowering your RPM. I don't know why, it just does. You'd think it would be better at doing what it does. For some reason, if you increase the RPM above a certain range, it will fluctuate the idle. This may be what you are experiencing.

I increased my RPM when I had new, improperly gapped spark plugs. I thought the idle must be off. It started rolling my idle around on me and sometimes it would cut out and jerk me almost to a stop in first gear while idling.
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 10:40 PM
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Yesterday i replaced my SYSTEM UPGRADE Throttle body with the OEM and i notice huge loss in power owned.gif
I want to somehow connect my cruise control cable on the SYSTEM UPGRADE Throttle body.
Can anybody direct me to a DIY?

I noticed the car didnt respond like it used to using the OEM TB.
Anyways i did wat DTN said and lowered the Idle and same problem.
The funny thing is its only on take off it will stall just a little.
I think i should check my plugs again.

The problem seemed to have lessened after the coil pack and wire change.
I will check my plugs..
Will faulty plug cause the car to have blips when taking off?
I know the petrol smell is from bad combustion so ill check the plugs today.

Thanks for reading!
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 10:55 PM
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Some people have found that taking the tb apart is a major PITA when they need to get it back together, but you might be able to swap parts from the stock tb to the system upgrade and be able to use your cruise
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 11:38 PM
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So it's bogging when you're trying to take off? Here's a list of possibilities
Throttle position sensor
PCV
Spark plug
wires
IAC
O2 sensor
Clutch

Do you have a check engine light?
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 07:22 AM
  #10  
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I'm still thinking it's spark plug related. If you get a faulty (or old and worn out) spark plug it will do similar things, and affect you at take off mostly. It hinders your take off power, even at a 60kmh roll, if you punch the gas it'll just be sluggish catching up to speed.

Spark plugs are cheap. Just buy another set and see if it fixes it.

Is your CEL on?

TPS is the next thing I would check.
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