This is why I need slimline engine fans.

Here you can see how close the turbo is to the passenger side fan.


Alpine's solution? Just slap a heat shield on the stock fan.




problem #2. The compressor side of the turbine has the intake pipe coming out of it. No problem. Just cut half the supports off, and install 10 washers to move the fan closer to the radiator, and out of the way of the intake tube....

 

Hey Random, Is is possible to move the passenger side fan in front of the radiator? You know, blow from the other direction. My local performance shop suggested this by the way. Just asking. HondaEater

 

No, It's not possible.

Fans are designed as "pushers" or "pullers". Our fans are "pullers". If you mounted it on the other side of the radiator...you would pull air from the engine compartment (HOT!) through the radiator. Hot air through your radiator is a BAD THING!!!!!

If you reversed the electricity, the fan will not work as well, as the blade design on Puller and Pusher fans is different.

You would have to buy 2 new Pusher fans, or get slimline Puller Fans.

 

Hey, I have seen that setup working perfectly ok. They move both fans in the front of the radiator, and the fans push cold air from the outside through the radiator to the engine compartment. In that way, you don't run the risk to destroy them by the excess amount of heat produced by the turbine which I have seen it going yellow-red in big stess (heavy loaded car and high speed for a long time)...
You don't necessarily have buy pusher fans....
Your fans push the same amount of air they suck...So I can't understand your argument...
Keep in mind, that this setup is used in every-single one Tiburon with turbo in Greece, and no-one had ever had a problem with rising temperature...
This is also the setup Turboman1 uses in his Tib.
Another plus is that by relocating the fans, you have much more space to work with...so u can even install an exhaust header and manifold that will flow better...


-Tasos-

 

Also keep in mind that when you relocate the fan you do it in parallel, and so, you don't have reverse polarity...
The fan spools the same way as before, only now the side that pushes the hot air from the radiator to the engine, now pushes cold air from outside to the radiator...

If you want I can clarify my point more...

Hope I helped...

-Tasos-

 

That means they reversed the electricity going to the fan. Fans are not as efficicent running in reverse, and they move less CFM of air.


The Alpine unit is a oil lubricated/water cooled turbo. If that thing was hot enough to glow...something is horribly wrong with that setup. The water cooling should have prevented that heat buildup. If the metal was hot enough to glow, that is hot enough to vaporize oil or coolant. That turbo is not long for this world. I would redesign that system rather quickly. It either needs to be flowing more water, or flowing more oil. Chances are serious damage has already been done.

Now, they dont. Pusher fans only move 85% of the air of puller fans. Reversing a puller fan to a pusher fan is even more innefficent. It is easier to SUCK (puller) air through the radiator than it is to BLOW (pusher) through the radiator.

Do some research on fans. You will see for the exact same electric motor (amps and volts) pusher fans move only 85% of the air. You will also see they have a different blade design on the PUSHER fans compared to the PULLER fans.



I don't doubt the more space in the engine compartment thing...that one is a no brainer. But you say no one has had heat problems...what about that turbo glowing? Obviously the turbo was not being cooled properly...

Please at least tell me they left the engine running for awhile on that turbo that was glowing....

 

The fan shround prevents you from mounting the fan "backwards". So you cannot just mount the stock fan the other way without reversing the polarity of the fan.

If you take it out of the engine bay, you have to rotate it 180 degrees, which means it would now try to suck hot engine air through the radiator. Unless you reverse the electricity going through the fan.

If you just lift it straight up, and then put in in front of the radiator(without reversing it), the fan shround is aerodynamicly shaped wrong to move air through the radiator. The "small" end would be towards the radiator, and the large end would be towards the front of the car. This would block about 2-4% of the radiator from any air significant moving air.

Are you guys using a different fan shroud(surround) when you do this?

Look at the photos I posted. You can see the side that contacts the radiator is significanly bigger. If you connect that "narrow" end to the radiator, you are blocking off a lot of air. Also...the motors of one fan stick out 2-3 inches. How do you keep that motor from hitting the radiator?

[ September 04, 2001: Message edited by: Random ]

 

Well lets begin...
1) The "glowing" turbo wasn't water-cooled...It was a IHI turbocharger from a FIAT-PUNTO-GT mounted on an earlier FIAT-UNO-TURBO...When I kicked the sheet out of the gas petal, and we stopped to check the car "just in case" the turbo was glowing yellowish....
2) The IHI turbo stayed alive long enough to get the car totaled before 4 weeks, and sent my friend to the hospital...I just wish the turbo had given up the day I drove it, and my friend could still walk...
3)The fan in front of the exaust header, doesn't extrude as mush as the one of the AC...So In most cases we use 2 of that kind (genuine HYUNDAI) replacing the AC fan...
4)I don't think a 2-4% less air will do any harm...Actually, the Tibs that have been modified to turbocharged, have *NEVER* had a problem with excess heat...
5)Just to clarify, most of them are 1600cc,or 1600cc overbored to 1800cc with special pistons, etc...
6)I do agree that if you buy thinner pushers fans things will be even beter, and some guys do that, but still the relocation of the fan, the way I told you, without reversing the polarity, works ok..
7)Keep in mind that my country is a very HOT country, so the heat of te engine is one of the biggest problems in general..
8)In some cases where Tibs were runned under stupid-boost (Garrett T4 at 1.8Bars overboost) they also changed the water pump with a much bigger one...
9)The fan surrounding is very easy to mod wink.gif

I think the second posting somehow explained better the mounting of the fans...
Also, in my own opinion the header of the Alpine unit, doesn't seem to be the best in flowing...If you have seen Turboman's header and the way the turbo is mounted on it, you will know what I mean...

If I still haven't anwered your questions, I will be glad to. Just ask me...

-Tasos-

 

The only thing I can think of is that hyundai uses the same radiator for the 1.6, 1.8, and 2.0. So you are getting a large radiator for a 1.6, and the 2.0 is getting a medium/small one. (comparatively speaking). If you bore out the 1.6 to 1.8, the block on the 1.6 is still smaller. The full 1.8 and 2.0L share the same block, so I know they share the same radiator.

The fix you are refering to may work for normal daily driving, but I am searching for a fix that will allow me to race at a racetrack that is at 3500 feet of elevation, in the desert with daytime temps between 40 and 50 C.

Given the fact that replacement fans only cost in the neighborhood of $250 to $300, it is a small insurance price to pay on a $2000 turbo and a ???$$$$ turbo install, on a $15,000 car.

There is much on the Alpine kit that was done to cut costs/keep costs low, the cooling system is not one of those areas I am willing to compromise on If/when asked for my reccomendation, replacing the stock fans with higher flowing slimline fans is my reccomendation. Re-using the stock fans is a solution, just not one I personally reccomend.

 

I agree with you, you shouldn't compromise with the cooling system. So consider upgrading the water pump with a larger (more efficient) one.

-Tasos-