BBTB & IM install
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Joined: Jul 2001
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BBTB & IM install
Was wondering does anybody know of a shop in the Northern VA area that is reliable and knows what they are doing? I have my BBTB and IM, but i dont have the technical know how todo it myself. Any help would be much appriecated.
Thanks in advance
Rope
Thanks in advance
Rope
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Joined: May 2001
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From: Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
Vehicle: 2008 Toyota Prius 2006 Suzuki SV650S
If you can remove bolts...you can do the BIM/BTB install.
There are 4 bolts on the TB.
There are about 12 bolts on the IM.
Biggest PITA about the swap is the fuel rail/fuel injectors are in the way, but you can just remove the injectors from the IM, and set the Fuel rail off to the side while you swap out the IM.
There are 4 bolts on the TB.
There are about 12 bolts on the IM.
Biggest PITA about the swap is the fuel rail/fuel injectors are in the way, but you can just remove the injectors from the IM, and set the Fuel rail off to the side while you swap out the IM.
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Joined: Jul 2001
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Well, Ropeman100 came over today and we did a double job: his BIM and BBTB plus my wiring for the Battery Relo.
but I'll stay on topic here. This job is easy and hard. It's easy because it's just removing bolts and hoses. It's hard because some of them are real bitches to get to. When I did mine almost a year ago I had a 12mm wrench and the little metric socket set from sears. Today I had the big 248 piece Mechanics toolset from sears with a U joint and extra screwdrivers. Let me say, the U joint and extenders make this job muuuuch easier.
Really, the hardest part of the job was getting those two bolts that hold on the IM from the back (the support stand). After brute strength didn't work, I used the firewall for leverage and used my torque wrench as a lever. That broke the bastard free. They aren't rusted either. They must use some grip-tite compound or just impact wrench them on there something fierce.
Other than that, the install was smooth as can be. It took about three hours (with breaks to work on my car and grab something to drink), and we didn't have any pieces left over.
Can't comment as to the power gains, Ropeman will have to chime in. Mine netted about a +4 with the butt-dyno smile.gif Seriously, more power at high end, and the peak power seemed to be lower in the rpm band. The car came alive at 4k (before the exhaust) and seems to peak a little bit earlier. My gas milage went up a bit too.
Great mod to do. Muchos Gracias to Onpol and his favorite machine shop for doing this.
later,
a
[ September 03, 2001: Message edited by: Curtas ]
but I'll stay on topic here. This job is easy and hard. It's easy because it's just removing bolts and hoses. It's hard because some of them are real bitches to get to. When I did mine almost a year ago I had a 12mm wrench and the little metric socket set from sears. Today I had the big 248 piece Mechanics toolset from sears with a U joint and extra screwdrivers. Let me say, the U joint and extenders make this job muuuuch easier.
Really, the hardest part of the job was getting those two bolts that hold on the IM from the back (the support stand). After brute strength didn't work, I used the firewall for leverage and used my torque wrench as a lever. That broke the bastard free. They aren't rusted either. They must use some grip-tite compound or just impact wrench them on there something fierce.
Other than that, the install was smooth as can be. It took about three hours (with breaks to work on my car and grab something to drink), and we didn't have any pieces left over.
Can't comment as to the power gains, Ropeman will have to chime in. Mine netted about a +4 with the butt-dyno smile.gif Seriously, more power at high end, and the peak power seemed to be lower in the rpm band. The car came alive at 4k (before the exhaust) and seems to peak a little bit earlier. My gas milage went up a bit too.
Great mod to do. Muchos Gracias to Onpol and his favorite machine shop for doing this.
later,
a
[ September 03, 2001: Message edited by: Curtas ]
