Problem 1: No brake lights

Problem 2: Voltage is going crazy. Used to run steady between 13.8-14.2ish. Now it's around 13.2-13.8 when idling (no problem) but when I'm driving it varies tremendously!! When accelerating, it will drop down to 11.8!! When I let off the gas and just coast, it will hover around 12.0-12.2 and maybe jump up to 13.5 if it wants to. I pulled in the garage when I got home and popped the hood, the belts and pulleys are definitely running slower than normal, and speed up considerably when I throttle, but even when they speed up it doesn't necessarily charge the battery or raise the voltage. I have a blue top Optima. I turned the car off, and back on and it started fine. It jumped up to 13.5-13.8 area right away and stayed there. I didn't have the digital volt meter hooked up til today, I hooked it up because I noticed my dash lights dimming when I would let off the gas on the interstate or when I'd accelerate. It's not a faulty volt reading or bad connection.

Problem 3: No cruise control. I thought cruise control still worked after the swap?

I removed the TCM... is that a potential problem?

I don't have any burned fuses, checked all of them and replaced some just in case. My RPM's are fine, they don't go out of control and it's no different than with the automatic. I don't seem to be having any other issues at all.

 

Did you check the brake light switch for your brakes?

In all honesty you probably broke that during your install since you were drilling holes or clutch pedals/etc. in the general area. Since your fuses are fine, that means its probably 98% that switch. You can check it via the method I posted before.

Voltage, I'd try someone else's battery real quick, takes a few seconds and will eliminate that as a problem. Just because its occuring now after the swap doesn't necessarily mean the swap caused it, so I'd check all the little stuff like that first, and go over the wiring you did.

TCM = Transmission Control Module right? Wouldn't know if that would cause a problem or not. Your cruise problem is probably related to the vehicle speed sensor, as it communicates with that at times I would assume (hence the reason it says you can't use cruise under 25 or 30mph, whatever it is, I haven't had cruise in a year and don't really mis it myself).

All I can think of at the moment.

 

I'll try the paperclip thing tonight with the plug. It's hard as crap to get under there to test it. I unplugged it and plugged it back in but no change.

am I paper-clipping the plug on the brake pedal or the plug that plugs into the brake pedal? (i.e., which side)?

 

look on webtech for which one is the brake light switch. wink1.gif

go to the etm tab and then general, then look for component locations.

 

Yah it is a pain in the ass. Now imagine me having to pull the one out of my parts car where the driver's side door doesn't open. My back still hurts.

You'll be paperclipping the side that connects to the clip for the brake light switch. The switch has the actual switch then some short wiring and an electrical clip, you'll be paper clipping the clip that goes into that clip. What happens is the power goes to the brake light switch all the time, but it switches on and off via the switch inside. The paper clip bypasses the switch.

 

chances are your cruise is related to your brake light problem. There are those switchs that lets you know when either the brake or the clutch is pressed. Are they both installed and working?

 

yeah, I'm driving my car to and from work. Brake works, lights don't

 

You should have two switches on the clutch and one on the brake. The switch that's pressed with the clutch pressed is the stater lockout switch (doesn't allow the car to start without the pedal fully pressed) the other is the cruse kill. I know I had to swap the brake switch when I installed cruise on one, but that doesn't sound right for you if it originally had cruise.
As far as charging, sounds like you either have a broken ground wire or your regulator (inside the alternator) in gone.

 

Broken ground wire?

Is there something I could have miswired or forgotten to unplug to cause it not to charge the battery?

Automatic - I constantly had a 13.8 - 14.2 connection (digital voltmeter)

Manual - It's dropping to 11.2 - 12.2 with a rare spike up to 13.2 if I have the RPM's just right. I've got an Optima Blue Top which is the only reason it's still running. The belts aren't turning as much as they seem they should, and when I push throttle they speed up, but the volts don't increase. At idle right now it's sitting at 11.1 which is getting dangerously low.

I just hooked up the jumper cables to my wife's mustang and started them both. The Tiburon only went up to 12.9 - 13.0. Think it's the battery?

ANY IDEAS?????????

The car sat for about 1.5 months without being started, battery disconnected most of that time.

ALSO.....
Paperclip test - small spark on the black plug (female end) and no spark on the brake pedal plug (white male plug, 4 prongs)