deadz67

hi all
just griping about my clutch i replaced3 times last year & now is finished again. it`s a Bully clutch,but i don`t think it was installed properly nor wasthe flywheel machined.
by the way, i drove a Festiva for 15 years on the same clutch & i baby this one a lot more than i did that pos
my lesson;make sure you have someone experienced to change these

Stocker

How are they failing? If they're glazing over because you baby it too much, there is a possible deglazing solution involving NO transmission removal. If they are wearing out, you need to get an uprated clutch.

lilo shark

get brand name once and you shouldn't have to deal with it again. j/k. beat it once in a while, release the demon.

deadz67

do you mean deglaze by the diy here in the forums, or by the additives i`e heard about. At any rate, i am afraid to do this because if it is the clutch on it`s way out, this might be the last straw so to speak 7 DO IT IN COMPLETELY, & Iam cashless right now....

here is what was put in i was told, with factory flywheel....
http://www.bullyclutch.com/stage3.html

Stocker

There is no additive for a glazed clutch.

You should do your own work. It's cheaper AND you don't have to be "told" what was put in to your car. Not to mention you can be sure it was done properly. These cars are simple. You can do it.

deadz67

i agree, but i don`t have a garage, & i`m not sure if i`m mechanically inclined enough to tackle something of that magnitude. What has occurred to me now after reading several posts on the slave valve pin removal is that maybe this is how this clutch should feel since it is a performance clutch, however i find i can feel the path "hit" or restrict when i shift between gears. Also the pedal is right @ the very top, but that might be nature of the beast on a performance clutch?
It is a Bully Clutch if anyone has ever heard of it, & i am wondering if i should remove the slave pin or not.

Stocker

The first thing to do is spend 15 minutes with your wrenches and get the restrictor out of the slave cylinder! Holy cow man that's right after deleting all the black plastic intake stuff on the list of "do this the first day you have your new RD!"

Then drive it and report back. Do be sure to have a fresh bottle of DOT3 on hand when you go to work on the clutch hydraulics. The fluid probably needed changing anyway.

deadz67

it seems to slip & pedal is higher when motor warms up,does this imply a specific problem anywhere?
going to try to remove restrictor this weekend, but i know this will just increase my pedal problem.Oh yeah, i did remove intake crap already, but i put it all back in for winter. My shorty is goin on soon, provided clutch doesn`t die before.
come on 649!!

Stocker

Removing the restrictor only makes it behave normally. There will be no artificial slip, and it might just clear up any real slip, when you start letting the thing engage normally. That restrictor was a stupid idea to cater to bad drivers.

deadz67

ok thanks,
& i think i found the post on removal
i appreciate the help

wait a second!
everybody is saying clutch is better because this shouldn`t be in there in the first place. The delay in the activation in the clutch actually burns it out same way a poor driver would, & i know of testimonials where Hyundai would not cover warranty due to ~driver error~
So since it is not driver error causing clutch parts to burn up, it would be deemed manufacture defect, & should have reimbursements for replaced clutches as well as a recall since it is unsafe should my clutch slip when trying to avoid an accident...
anybody else like to step up to the podium?