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Wheel stud replacement

Old Dec 19, 2006 | 09:07 AM
  #21  
JonGTR's Avatar
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Maybe I'll send off a stock rear stud and have them find a duplicate replacement.
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Old Dec 19, 2006 | 09:13 AM
  #22  
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Are you sure Jon that they are skinnier? Because they use the same lugnuts.

Or do you mean the part before the threads?
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Old Dec 19, 2006 | 09:28 AM
  #23  
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The notched end that you press into the hub is skinnier, not the threads.
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Old Dec 19, 2006 | 10:56 AM
  #24  
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just measure it with a caliper. that should be good enough for them to find a replacement.
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Old Dec 19, 2006 | 11:00 AM
  #25  
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Or there is a cheaper option that I went with about a year and a half ago.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku

I just had to drill out the knurl a little and popped them in and got the correct lugnuts. all for the cost of a package of one of the evo stud kits.

Here is a couple pics of mine:





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Old Dec 21, 2006 | 07:38 PM
  #26  
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i had all evo studs on my 1st tib that i crashed at 70mph (spun 180 degrees)-... when all was said and done, the evo studs were still in tact. i'm not saying that the fronts and rears are the same size, but going by sharkracing.com's wheel spacer set i measured it (w/ calipers) and called arp for a custom stud when they informed me that the evo stud was exactly what i was looking for and was almost ready for distribution to dealers.

i also heard hubs should be bored out by a mill not a hand drill. if anything were to keep that bit from spinning true to the hub you could screw up the driveabilty of your car.
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 10:08 PM
  #27  
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While updating the links in the approved DIY listings, I notice there were two copies of this thread . . . maybe one from RDT and one from HA? At any rate, they were pretty much the same EXCEPT that the thread I just deleted also had this IMPORTANT NOTE FOR EARLY CARS WITH CAPTIVE ROTORS in there:



Originally Posted by Rd1tib
heads up for captive rotor peeps. i just tried it and it is pretty dam hard.



- you have to take off the wheel.

- remove your calipers

- unscrew the captive bolts and make sure u hold on to the back nut cause it will spin

( while u do this u put it in neutral to spin it to the opening and put it in gear to hold it in place)

- take off the cotter pin on the spindle. and take off the nut.

- u shoudl be able to remove the wheels stud plate

- hammer the stud out and replace it with the old one.

- reverse order to reinstall it.



its a pain in the ass.
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