Upgrade To A Oem 12" Bbk!
08-22-2006, 12:13 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,046
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vehicle: 2000 Hyundai Elantra
DIY:Upgrade to a 12†OEM BBK
This is for an upgrade from the stock 10.1†stock braking system to a 12†OEM big brake kit. You will need to contact mad_john on RDTiburon.com to get this setup.
Parts needed:
Two 12†rotors
Two KDM XG350 Calipers
Front Brake Pads
Tools Needed:
Jack
Jack Stands
Air/Hand Tools
Brake Bleeder Kit
Cup
Rubber Mallet
Step One:
Jack up the car and place jack stands in the appropriate place so the car rests securely on the stands.
Step Two:
Remove four lugnuts holding rim on, remove tire.
Step Three:
Remove bolts holding caliper on to hub. Also remove bolt holding brake line on. You will get some drainage from the master cylinder. Get a cup or can to hold fluid, which can be used later if so desired.
Step Four:
Remove front rotors. You may come across some rust and general sticky rotors when trying to remove the rotor from the hub. GENTLY tap with a rubber mallet until it comes loose. They will eventually come loose, just takes some time.
Step Five:
Place new rotor on hub. You will find that the rotors are cut from the five lug KDM XG350 rotor. The 4x114.3 bolt pattern is perfect, just a tight fit. If need be, hit rotor with a rubber mallet to get rotor onto hub the whole way.
Step Six;
Take the correct XG350 caliper and bolt to the Hub. You can use the same bolts from what held on the old caliper. Also attach brake line to the XG350 caliper with the appropriate bolt.
Step Seven:
After making sure all the bolts as tightened properly, it is time to bleed the brake. This is rather easy to do if you have the right tools. Hook up the brake bleeding kit, and be sure to fill the master cylinder with fluid before attempting this. Follow the directions on the box for the bleeder kit, or until there are no bubbles coming out of the line. Tighten bleeder on the caliper after this is done.
Success! After bleeding the brakes you are done. Sit back and enjoy your new mod. To ensure proper break in of the brake, do a few 25mph-0 stops, and then gently drive the car with the brakes for the first 100 miles to ensure proper break in.
Here are some comparison shots from the old stock brakes to the upgraded ones:
This is for an upgrade from the stock 10.1†stock braking system to a 12†OEM big brake kit. You will need to contact mad_john on RDTiburon.com to get this setup.
Parts needed:
Two 12†rotors
Two KDM XG350 Calipers
Front Brake Pads
Tools Needed:
Jack
Jack Stands
Air/Hand Tools
Brake Bleeder Kit
Cup
Rubber Mallet
Step One:
Jack up the car and place jack stands in the appropriate place so the car rests securely on the stands.
Step Two:
Remove four lugnuts holding rim on, remove tire.
Step Three:
Remove bolts holding caliper on to hub. Also remove bolt holding brake line on. You will get some drainage from the master cylinder. Get a cup or can to hold fluid, which can be used later if so desired.
Step Four:
Remove front rotors. You may come across some rust and general sticky rotors when trying to remove the rotor from the hub. GENTLY tap with a rubber mallet until it comes loose. They will eventually come loose, just takes some time.
Step Five:
Place new rotor on hub. You will find that the rotors are cut from the five lug KDM XG350 rotor. The 4x114.3 bolt pattern is perfect, just a tight fit. If need be, hit rotor with a rubber mallet to get rotor onto hub the whole way.
Step Six;
Take the correct XG350 caliper and bolt to the Hub. You can use the same bolts from what held on the old caliper. Also attach brake line to the XG350 caliper with the appropriate bolt.
Step Seven:
After making sure all the bolts as tightened properly, it is time to bleed the brake. This is rather easy to do if you have the right tools. Hook up the brake bleeding kit, and be sure to fill the master cylinder with fluid before attempting this. Follow the directions on the box for the bleeder kit, or until there are no bubbles coming out of the line. Tighten bleeder on the caliper after this is done.
Success! After bleeding the brakes you are done. Sit back and enjoy your new mod. To ensure proper break in of the brake, do a few 25mph-0 stops, and then gently drive the car with the brakes for the first 100 miles to ensure proper break in.
Here are some comparison shots from the old stock brakes to the upgraded ones:
08-22-2006, 12:19 PM
#2
Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Arizona
Posts: 6,976
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vehicle: N/A as in Not Applicable, not Naturally Aspirated
you need a final shot of the finished swap with wheel on!!!
and where can one get those 12" rotors with the 114.3x4 bolt battern, non-cative...
dd you have a choice of slotted or drilled?
I wannado this doooown the road. Need the part now though.
and where can one get those 12" rotors with the 114.3x4 bolt battern, non-cative...
dd you have a choice of slotted or drilled?
I wannado this doooown the road. Need the part now though.
08-22-2006, 06:07 PM
#6
Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Mt. Airy, Maryland
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just an FYI if you are replacing discs and pads you do not want to come to a complete stop while braking in your brakes. 25mph - 5mph will do, but if you can do a couple of progressivley harder 50mph - 10 mph is even better. Ther reason you don want to stop is the brake and pad resting togeather after a stop will leave a deposit on that spot of the rotor and until it is gone (might take a while) it could give the feel of a warped rotor. Just my 2 cents
11-20-2009, 04:03 PM
#7
Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Arizona
Posts: 6,976
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vehicle: N/A as in Not Applicable, not Naturally Aspirated
yamaha, not sure where you had these pictures originally posted but I am going to updating the components of this front big brake kit this week and can snap a few. Maybe a mod here can fill them in to your original post as needed (if you can't bring back original photos).
also, any hopes for something similar on the rear? I'm wondering if there is a larger caliper that will work with what we already have back there. Anyone who's played around with it is probably already long gone, but I figured I'd take a shot in the dark at avoiding some of the legwork..
also, any hopes for something similar on the rear? I'm wondering if there is a larger caliper that will work with what we already have back there. Anyone who's played around with it is probably already long gone, but I figured I'd take a shot in the dark at avoiding some of the legwork..
11-20-2009, 06:11 PM
#9
Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Arizona
Posts: 6,976
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vehicle: N/A as in Not Applicable, not Naturally Aspirated
I've track tested the 12" OEM BBK on stock pads (bad idea) yet was still pleased. With performance brake pads the 12" rotors and xg350 calipers are perfect for 120mph brake checks into a 90 degree turn.
I would just like something a little bigger in the rear (yes I realize how gay that sounds). You can never have too much braking power. Well, okay you can (and added unsprung weight) but to a point, more brakes is better. Especially on the track.
I would just like something a little bigger in the rear (yes I realize how gay that sounds). You can never have too much braking power. Well, okay you can (and added unsprung weight) but to a point, more brakes is better. Especially on the track.
