^^^

I hate every time my tires break loose like that. 02.gif
I miss traction.

 

Yeah, not sure why mine is so red looking... I've used Convoy synthetic oil for the past 15000 miles, but it's more greenish than red.

You mentioned that the cam won't lay flat when you first put it in there. Will it flatten out as you tighten the journal bolts? I can't imagine you would leave it that way...

 

Yeah StrikeEagle as you torque dont the journal bolts it flattens out. If you have any other questions you can PM if you want

 

So when you say that the marked links on the timing chain need to be five links away from the exhaust cam, should the links and timing index mark look like what i drew in red? White is the original how it was marked up on the DIY.

EDIT!!!!!! And should the exhaust cam index still be pointing up, when the intake index is more to the right or however it ends up when you advance it?
EDIT 2!!!!!! If my oil happens to be low in there, like in that picture, should I add more to that place?

 

^ No. The cam markers need to stay 5 full links apart. <u>Not 5 extra links apart</u>.

 

So both of the index markers stay pointing up, and the marked links stay in the same spot? Everything stays the same except the cam? And also, when he said twist the old intake cam out. Would the exhaust cam move and cause you to have to realign, or do you literally just grab it and twist a little and it pops out. Do you need a large wrench like him or what?

 

^ He just means that when you remove the cam, you use a twisting motion to get it out of the chain.

You don't need a large wrench unless you want to manually crank the engine. You can also just keep blipping the starter until both markers point up but the wrench'll make it quicker.

 

Ok, but once I put the new cam in, both index marks are in the same facing up spot, and the links of the chain are in the same spot too? Everything stays the same?

 

^ Yes. Everything stays the same.

 

Alright. It wasn't the installation I was worried about, it was where the marks were supposed to be, because I heard that if the marks are in the wrong spot, your valves open and close at the wrong times, then your pistons go clank and bend your valves. Or something like that... lol I'm glad to know that everything stays exactly the same except for a new cam, eases my mind a lot.