1.8L Intake Cam Install
This install is only for BETA 1 engines. The installation of a 1.8L Intake Cam in a 2.0L engine is the advance of the intake timing by about 6 degrees. The 2.0L Exhaust Cam is identical to the one found on the 1.8L so there is no reason for the swap. This is a fairly simple swap. So here's the info:

Parts Needed:
- Metric Socket Set
- Torque Wrench (5-15lb/ft is all that is needed)
- Quart of oil
- Grease rags
- 1.8L Intake Cam
- Silver Sharpie

Step 1: Valve Cover Removal

- Remove the spark plug cover
- Remove plug wires
- Remove the two bolts from the top part of the timing belt cover (The two that are screwed sideways into the valve cover)
- Remove the valve cover (If you plan on reusing the valve gasket remove the cover very carefully)

Step 2: Intake Cam Removal

- There is an index mark on the exhaust and intake cam (A painted or raised dot). If the dots are not facing straight up you need to either hand crank the engine or blip the starter extremely fast until it does.(There is a spot on the exhaust cam made for hand cranking)

https://i109.photobucket.com/albums/...X/IMGA0362.jpg

https://i109.photobucket.com/albums/...X/IMGA0347.jpg


- Take your sharpie and mark the 5 chain links between your cam indexes

https://i109.photobucket.com/albums/...peedFX/Cam.jpg

- Remove all journal bolts on the intake side and remember which goes where
- Remove the #5 lower journal bolt on the exhaust side (Connected to the chain guide)
- Lift the Cam out gently and twist it off of the chain (Exhaust cam needs to be cranked to loosen the chain so that the intake cam can be removed)

https://i109.photobucket.com/albums/...X/IMGA0363.jpg

Step 3: Intake Cam Installation

- Use the quart of oil and lather the new intake cam
- The index make on the intake cam needs to be five full links from the exhaust cam index mark
- Once index marks are lined up lay the cam in the motor
- The cam will not sit flat for now. That is fine

https://i109.photobucket.com/albums/...X/IMGA0364.jpg

- VERY IMPORTANT: Tighten intake journal bolts(9lb/ft torque), But do so in a zigzag pattern. Otherwise the cam wont balance right and can cause major problems

https://i109.photobucket.com/albums/...FX/Zig-Zag.jpg

- Install the chain guide(Remember…5 chain links between the index markers) and the remaining exhaust journal bolt (9lb/ft torque)


Step 4: Finalizing Project

- Either hand crank or blip the starter to make the cam spin. If installed correctly everything should spin freely without hitting anything else
- Install Valve Gasket / Cover (15 lb/ft torque)
- Install plug wires
- Install spark plug cover
- Reset the ECU by removing the negative battery terminal for 10-15 minutes
- Leave car run approx. 15 minutes to allow oil to circulate through head

Tips: Engine will be rough when started. Let it sit and idle for 10-15mins and will then be fine.


-Special thanks to UltraTibby for the old one!

Excellent pix mang! It's really clear and shows everything very well.

Yeah, good work mate fing02.gif

This will help quite a few people out methinks.

Great DIY!! Someone should replace the on in the listing.

What's the #5 journal bolt and the chain guide? Can you circle it in a pic or something?

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (StrikeEagle @ Feb 26 2007, 02:22 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>What's the #5 journal bolt and the chain guide? Can you circle it in a pic or something?</div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (TopSpeedFX @ Feb 26 2007, 08:48 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>https://i109.photobucket.com/albums/...X/IMGA0347.jpg</div>
The chain guide is the thing seen above the timing chain in that pic. When removing the journal bolts on the intake side to remove the cam, you'll also need to remove one bolt on the exhaust side as it is one of two bolts holding the chain guide in place.

TopSpeedFX: Are you sure enough oil is circulating through your head? Mine had loads more oil everywhere when I removed my valve-cover... yours looks dry, nearly.

I have an RD2, and I don't believe I have one, could that be possible?

https://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i...e/IMG_6115.jpg

https://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i...e/IMG_6112.jpg

For everyone that has done the 1.8L Cam swap, was it worth it?

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (StrikeEagle @ Feb 26 2007, 03:47 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>I have an RD2, and I don't believe I have one, could that be possible?</div>
Some other guys on here have said that they didn't have a chain guide either. Maybe Hyundai deemed them unnecessary in later models.

Yep. no chainguide here either. And that valve train is DRY!
https://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f...28-06_1551.jpg
https://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f...28-06_1548.jpg


StrikeEagle: your engine is RED!

I didn't know what the heck the chain guide step was, so I skipped it. It turns out I dont have a chain guide either. And, yes, the 1.8L swap was worth EVERY CENT, and I bought one new off K$PEC dot com.

My impressions on the results: I drove carefully for the first few miles, then got on it a bit. The tires broke loose when I mashed the pedal at around 3000RPM. I couldn't wipe the smile off my face! Just driving normally, the car feels "lighter" if that makes sense. Accelerating is easier and accelerating on the highway is VERY fun now. The only other mod I have is a conical air filter.

the end.