1.8L Intake Cam Install
This install is only for BETA 1 engines. The installation of a 1.8L Intake Cam in a 2.0L engine is the advance of the intake timing by about 6 degrees. The 2.0L Exhaust Cam is identical to the one found on the 1.8L so there is no reason for the swap. This is a fairly simple swap. So here's the info:

Parts Needed:
- Metric Socket Set
- Torque Wrench (5-15lb/ft is all that is needed)
- Quart of oil
- Grease rags
- 1.8L Intake Cam
- Silver Sharpie

Step 1: Valve Cover Removal

- Remove the spark plug cover
- Remove plug wires
- Remove the two bolts from the top part of the timing belt cover (The two that are screwed sideways into the valve cover)
- Remove the valve cover (If you plan on reusing the valve gasket remove the cover very carefully)

Step 2: Intake Cam Removal

- There is an index mark on the exhaust and intake cam (A painted or raised dot). If the dots are not facing straight up you need to either hand crank the engine or blip the starter extremely fast until it does.(There is a spot on the exhaust cam made for hand cranking)

https://i109.photobucket.com/albums/...X/IMGA0362.jpg

https://i109.photobucket.com/albums/...X/IMGA0347.jpg


- Take your sharpie and mark the 5 chain links between your cam indexes

https://i109.photobucket.com/albums/...peedFX/Cam.jpg

- Remove all journal bolts on the intake side and remember which goes where
- Remove the #5 lower journal bolt on the exhaust side (Connected to the chain guide)
- Lift the Cam out gently and twist it off of the chain (Exhaust cam needs to be cranked to loosen the chain so that the intake cam can be removed)

https://i109.photobucket.com/albums/...X/IMGA0363.jpg

Step 3: Intake Cam Installation

- Use the quart of oil and lather the new intake cam
- The index make on the intake cam needs to be five full links from the exhaust cam index mark
- Once index marks are lined up lay the cam in the motor
- The cam will not sit flat for now. That is fine

https://i109.photobucket.com/albums/...X/IMGA0364.jpg

- VERY IMPORTANT: Tighten intake journal bolts(9lb/ft torque), But do so in a zigzag pattern. Otherwise the cam wont balance right and can cause major problems

https://i109.photobucket.com/albums/...FX/Zig-Zag.jpg

- Install the chain guide(Remember…5 chain links between the index markers) and the remaining exhaust journal bolt (9lb/ft torque)


Step 4: Finalizing Project

- Either hand crank or blip the starter to make the cam spin. If installed correctly everything should spin freely without hitting anything else
- Install Valve Gasket / Cover (15 lb/ft torque)
- Install plug wires
- Install spark plug cover
- Reset the ECU by removing the negative battery terminal for 10-15 minutes
- Leave car run approx. 15 minutes to allow oil to circulate through head

Tips: Engine will be rough when started. Let it sit and idle for 10-15mins and will then be fine.


-Special thanks to UltraTibby for the old one!

Excellent pix mang! It's really clear and shows everything very well.

Yeah, good work mate fing02.gif

This will help quite a few people out methinks.

Great DIY!! Someone should replace the on in the listing.

What's the #5 journal bolt and the chain guide? Can you circle it in a pic or something?

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (StrikeEagle @ Feb 26 2007, 02:22 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>What's the #5 journal bolt and the chain guide? Can you circle it in a pic or something?</div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (TopSpeedFX @ Feb 26 2007, 08:48 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>https://i109.photobucket.com/albums/...X/IMGA0347.jpg</div>
The chain guide is the thing seen above the timing chain in that pic. When removing the journal bolts on the intake side to remove the cam, you'll also need to remove one bolt on the exhaust side as it is one of two bolts holding the chain guide in place.

TopSpeedFX: Are you sure enough oil is circulating through your head? Mine had loads more oil everywhere when I removed my valve-cover... yours looks dry, nearly.

I have an RD2, and I don't believe I have one, could that be possible?

https://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i...e/IMG_6115.jpg

https://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i...e/IMG_6112.jpg

For everyone that has done the 1.8L Cam swap, was it worth it?

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (StrikeEagle @ Feb 26 2007, 03:47 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>I have an RD2, and I don't believe I have one, could that be possible?</div>
Some other guys on here have said that they didn't have a chain guide either. Maybe Hyundai deemed them unnecessary in later models.

Yep. no chainguide here either. And that valve train is DRY!
https://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f...28-06_1551.jpg
https://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f...28-06_1548.jpg


StrikeEagle: your engine is RED!

I didn't know what the heck the chain guide step was, so I skipped it. It turns out I dont have a chain guide either. And, yes, the 1.8L swap was worth EVERY CENT, and I bought one new off K$PEC dot com.

My impressions on the results: I drove carefully for the first few miles, then got on it a bit. The tires broke loose when I mashed the pedal at around 3000RPM. I couldn't wipe the smile off my face! Just driving normally, the car feels "lighter" if that makes sense. Accelerating is easier and accelerating on the highway is VERY fun now. The only other mod I have is a conical air filter.

the end.

^^^

I hate every time my tires break loose like that. 02.gif
I miss traction.

Yeah, not sure why mine is so red looking... I've used Convoy synthetic oil for the past 15000 miles, but it's more greenish than red.

You mentioned that the cam won't lay flat when you first put it in there. Will it flatten out as you tighten the journal bolts? I can't imagine you would leave it that way...

Yeah StrikeEagle as you torque dont the journal bolts it flattens out. If you have any other questions you can PM if you want

https://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c170/BlizagaXx/1.jpg

So when you say that the marked links on the timing chain need to be five links away from the exhaust cam, should the links and timing index mark look like what i drew in red? White is the original how it was marked up on the DIY.

EDIT!!!!!! And should the exhaust cam index still be pointing up, when the intake index is more to the right or however it ends up when you advance it?
EDIT 2!!!!!! If my oil happens to be low in there, like in that picture, should I add more to that place?

^ No. The cam markers need to stay 5 full links apart. <u>Not 5 extra links apart</u>.

So both of the index markers stay pointing up, and the marked links stay in the same spot? Everything stays the same except the cam? And also, when he said twist the old intake cam out. Would the exhaust cam move and cause you to have to realign, or do you literally just grab it and twist a little and it pops out. Do you need a large wrench like him or what?

^ He just means that when you remove the cam, you use a twisting motion to get it out of the chain.

You don't need a large wrench unless you want to manually crank the engine. You can also just keep blipping the starter until both markers point up but the wrench'll make it quicker.

Ok, but once I put the new cam in, both index marks are in the same facing up spot, and the links of the chain are in the same spot too? Everything stays the same?

^ Yes. Everything stays the same.

Alright. It wasn't the installation I was worried about, it was where the marks were supposed to be, because I heard that if the marks are in the wrong spot, your valves open and close at the wrong times, then your pistons go clank and bend your valves. Or something like that... lol I'm glad to know that everything stays exactly the same except for a new cam, eases my mind a lot.

Very clear DIY. I would recommend that people not reuse the existing valve cover gasket though. I did (since mine was basically new), and a week later noticed oil leaking at multiple locations.

How was your mileage affected by the new cam?

Sooo... another lesson learned the hard way.

Didn't have a torque wrench, but I tried to go ahead and do this install anyways. Everything was going fine until the very last bolt, which I over-torqued and ripped the threads out of the hole. Not all the threads, half the threads. The bolt won't tighten down, just spins, but it won't loosen with finger pressure (ratchet wrench clicks past it).

https://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y1...rippedhole.jpg

The one circled, like I said the very last one.

Then, one of the holes in the valve cover going to the timing belt surround stripped as well. It wouldn't tighten the gap down, for some reason the spacer didn't snap in, so it looked like it had a fair ways to go... so thats messed up as well now. And... the valve cover cracked on another one. Slight hairline crack...

I believe I'll have to retap the hole and go for a slightly larger one bolt... the gasket seal is pretty good still, but I'll just have to replace the valve cover when I see someone selling one.

(to cap it off, 2 of the spark plug cover bolts disappeared, and one of the valve cover bolts fell down into the engine somewhere... I'm going to have to find it tomorrow)

wow you messed up big time man!
The bolts that hold the cams are very critical parts because the cams spin at high rpm. If you don't fix it RIGHT, you might end up replacing the whole engine including internals.

I know... I know...

I was wondering if I could fill it then retap it at normal size, what fill could I use? Or just better rethread it at larger size and find a bigger bolt?

What about the metal shavings? ...

Ooo, someone finally beat me. LOL. I stripped the threads for the tensioner pulley and had to re-tap the hole in the 4 inch space between the side of the head and the engine bay. yeouch.

Even after I fixed it right, the cheap timing belt I bought broke down and failed days after. Here I stand...

oh, and those valve cover/spark plug cover bolts. I've lost MANY of those (but not in the engine.. lmao.gif), and found a hardware store that has the exact bolts in shiny silver! yay. tried home depot.. tried Ace... but TrueValue is where I found what I needed. ANY BOLT IMAGINABLE, they'll MAKE you a bolt to your specs if need be. They have like 4 aisles of their store dedicated to nuts and bolts.

And you get shiny new silver ones!

oh and use a magnet for metal shavings. and lay down LOTS of protection for the inside of your valvetrain before tapping.

I don't think I can actually get a proper fill in... I'm going to have to go for a bigger hole with different bolt. (makes me wonder about the other threads, I tightened this one the same way I tightened the rest of em, but this one gave...)

I can't heat it up hot for any fill I can think of enough without burning all the oil around it...

TrueValue? I don't think they have that store in this area, never heard of it... I'll have to search on that one.

(one 20 mi from here, not bad)

Got a guy 2 miles from me who'll rethread the hole long as I come to him.. (heli coil)

Question is, do you guys think I could make that drive? Bolt is too long to get out of its hole (valve cover stops it) and the chain guide which is well secured (not pictured) is helping hold down the bracket.

I just ran the car for a couple minutes (was really rough, forgot to reset the ECU) and I opened up the valve cover and everything is the way I left it. Seems I did the install correctly, minus not having a torque wrench.

I'm thinking it'd make it, but would like a second opinion...

take off the head and bring it to him. or get it towed. I would <u><span style="font-size:14pt;line-height:100%"><span style="color:#FF0000">NOT</span></span></u> drive it there. That is asking for disaster. I think you shouldn't have even turned it over at all. That cam is spinning thousands of RPM's dude, and those bolts are holding the journals down, which means that cam might be moving 1 thousanth of an inch every hundred rotations, or whatever it may be, and it will start grinding away at the cam which is machined perfectly. dont do it dude, see if you can tow it with a truck you have, or a buddy has, or yank the head. I would not drive it though. That's asking for a disaster man...

Ya, decided best to push/tow it that distance... wake up at 6 and get an early workout laugh.gif

or you could just heli coil it yourself. First time I stripped a hole in the head, I was like "WTF is a helicoil?" went to TrueValue and found out. It's a pretty straightforward process. Nothing you can't figure out (I mean you can swap cams, ..sorta).

you're basically buying threads and a matching bolt and after inserting the threads (looks like a mini slinky but not bouncy like one) you just screw in the bolt, ta da. And it's harder to overtorque them once they're in.

Well, I could buy the M6 heli coil set , but they don't sell singles, and they want $80+ for a set. While they said they'd do it for me for under $10 if I bring it in...

I know the process, I read up on it when I was searching online about what to do.

It seems I'm not the only one that has messed up in this way laugh.gif

UPDATE:

Seems my luck with cars is pushing full force these past few days...

So I get it towed (friend's car towing) to the place... Seems the front desk and the shop guys don't talk much. Turns out they only do work on engines off the car, nothing on the car. So I have to tow it another mile to a mechanic down the way that would be willing to do it... for $30 more. Fine I figure, long as he doesn't get any metal shavings in there, I'm happy to have my problem fixed.

In the parking lot the brakes on my car lock up, and the rope snap. Have to turn it over a few times so that the brakes work again. Course now we don't have a line, we figure its only 1200 meters or so to the guy, so we push it. Course we didn't realize it was mostly up hill... So... that was fun...

We get it to the mechanic, tell him I need an m6 heli coil on the intake camshaft journey bracket. He nods, says I'm booked until Friday. Its like a 20 minute job to do it, and I just pushed the car all the way there, and he tells me wait 5 days. *sigh*

ARGH!!

Well... I understand he's booked. So I tell him to go ahead and put me in. For sure I'll be takin' off the valve cover and watching for metal shavings come Friday... Then I get to let it sit and run for 15 min for the oil to recirculate.

So, postponed until Friday...

Well hopefully I'll get the right pipe for my CAI and headers come in, all in one.

can you get a ride to that TrueValue shop. They sell single helicoils there and you can be done by tonight 'stead of Friday. That's BS. If I were a shop manager, I'd take you in, especially if your valve cover was already off and ready to go.



"booked till Fri"... i.e. I don't really wanna do it..

Where I went is a TrueValue store, it didn't show up on the website, its actually a store + shop combined. I'll have to call the other shop and see if they sell singles.

Even if I got a single, I'd still need the insert tool and tap as well wouldn't I? I'll have to call and see...

I think the mechanic knows he doesn't have the kit on hand and needs to order it... I have extended weekend break from school starting Thursday, and I wanted to work on the car, I'll try and find a faster way to get things going...

Thanks for the tip!

**Did this cam install on saturday.. great DIY!! Went very smoothly, car started right up.. idled rough for about 30 seconds, then smoothed out and works great!!! that little flat spot in the acceleration that i think all tibs have.. GONZO laugh.gif

great DIY...did mine today in a one hour

You can never have TOO many reference pics to look at! My camera does really well up close.

https://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a...camswap001.jpg
https://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a...camswap002.jpg
https://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a...camswap003.jpg
https://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a...camswap006.jpg

Can a mod somehow restore the pictures in the first post? They were pretty useful. Can't wait to install my cam this weekend hail.gif

I did this today, thanks for the DIY! I also took some pictures, here they are, hope they are helpful to someone (there was no chain guide on mine though):

http://picasaweb.google.com/radu.rd2/18IntakeCam

Sorry guys Ill check and see if I still have the pics to put em back up for you

Can someone reup the pics please?

Hit up Tiburonmoo, he's supposed to have archived all of the DIY pics for reupping.