andyengineer

You can get a cheap header off of ebay from SSautochrome. You can get 4-2-1's or 4-1's. I liked the idea of the longer runners on the 4-2-1 and I like the stainless look, although heat wrap would net the better results. You can get the headers for around $100 to $180 depending on if you get the SSautochorme or the actual OBX/Forza brand.

Recomended tools for the job are: jack, stands, an oxygen sensor tool, metric sockets, WD-40 or Kroil, grinder or cut off wheel and if you live in a northern climate an impact wrench the get out the stuborn bolts.

Ok here we go! This installation was performed on my 2001 with the two cat set up. Here is the bofore shot.





First take off the heat shield, exposing the manifold studs and O2 sensor. Remove the radiator fan infront of the manifold, the manifold nuts and the O2 sensor. I suggest using a losening agent on all of the nuts and bolts that are going to be removed well ahead of time if they are rusted. Especially on the bolts going to the second cat.





Here is a shot of the first O2 sensor removed and the sensor tool kit. You can get it from Autozone through their tool loaner program.





next take off lower motor shield in the front and remove second o2 sensor. It is helpfull to undo the exhaust hangers by the cat and resonator to alow more movement. Now you can remove bolts holding the down pipe to the cat. I ended up having to use an Impact wrench and some choice words to achive this. Now you can remove the manifold by dropping it out the bottom. If you don't have the car on stands, now is the time to do it.





here is the exhaust brace and a lower shot of the first cat. Don't worry, I'm not leaking oil that is just over spray from the Kroil I used to help losen the bolts.





The power stearing pump bracket will get in the way when you try to put on the new header. You can grind the header down or remove the pump and bracket. I marked the adjustment bolt for the pump tension with a permanent marker before removal.





You can also see the stock exhaust brace on the motor from the top. This is a good time to remove it. It will not be needed.





The header hitting on motor seems to be a common problem. Some people cut the brace on the motor, but I opted to grind the flange where it is marked red. Cut it, grind it... do what you gotta do to make some clearance or you will never get the manifold on the studs. I think this worked well. I don't have any of the mystery buzzing that some folks complain about. You may also need to hog out some of the stud holes on the manifold on top. I had two that needed to be enlarged a little.





Here is a shot of the header front bottom after grinding to fit, installing the flex pipe and attaching it to the cat. Every thing lined up just fine. I didn't have to do any major mods! Guess I got lucky.





You will want to reinstall the radiator fan. It is a tight fit, but you can do it.





You can see I took the radiator cap off. This allows just enought room that you can get the fan past. Somewhere between fanessing it and forcing it, the fan will go back in.





Carefull not to damage the fins at the bottom of the radiator with the fan housing. Now slide it over into place and install the bolts.





You can see it is a very tight fit, but I've been told that it is not a problem for the fan to be that close to the header. I will update if I experience any problems.





engine bay after. Now reset your ECU by disconecting the battery for at least 15 minutes or disconect it adn hit the brakes to discharge the capacitors in the ECU. Then hook the battery back up and drive it like you stole it ;-)





After taking her out for her first burn, you can see the discoloration starting. It should turn a nice brown blue as time goes on.



Well, I hope this helps some people. Your oxygen sensors may be in different places depending on what set up your stock exhaust was. I will be updating this DIY as I get an aftermarket cat-back installed and a high flow cat. smile.gif

4U2enV

awesome diy man. all the pics help out so much, its gonna make this much easier for me thx.

01tibby

very nice..

TibOne

how much time did that take?

andyengineer

Took me about six hours, but that was with documentation, taking a couple breaks, and running to the store to get a better impact wrench and a wire brush wheel to get some really stubborn nuts off of the catalytic converter

2bits

I like it, good job. I wish i could do it, even with step by step i dont think i could....

drafter

You may want to put in there that people should wipe down the header after install to remove any oils left from their hands. These will show up as nasty looking spots/stains after the header is heated up and cooled a number of times.

MADTIB

Also if you use heat wrap on the headers,you will have some nasty smelling smoke comming off the headers for the first 20 to 30 minutes of driving.So,don't be alarmed if you see/smell smoke comming out from under the hood.

cdogtibby1

hey man thats a good DIY... the guy that helps me with my car told me that we are gonna do the header later on tho... he wants to do exhaust and some exterior looks things... he said a header is a pain in the ass

morningla

that's a great DIY, Thanks. but I wouldn't be able to do it myself, as I don't have the tools plus, I do not enjoy pulling out harden bolts due to my -40 weather during our winters. If i only had one of those cool machine car jacks smile.gif and access to the tools of a bodyshop... ahhhhh