DIY - Trunk Popper
03-29-2005, 11:08 PM
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DIY - Trunk Popper
Items needed:
-Solenoid kit. Do not use a door lock actuator.
-Wire stripper/crimper
-Power wire, rings, crimps (or solder)
-Philips head screwdriver with magnetic extension
-1-2 pairs needle nose pliers
-12mm socket + wrench + short extension
-Drill with appropriately sized bit
-Several good brews (I went with Brooklyn Brown)
This is a DIY for mounting the solenoid only. How you choose to activate the solenoid is up to you. Most of the solenoids come with hardware and a button, although I don't see the point of disabling the stock lever and hiding a button when a thief can just put the rear seats down to access the trunk. I suppose it could help if you have amps or a big enclosure. I connected mine to a relay activated by an accessory output on my alarm. I can post info on that setup if anyone needs it. If you don't have any available accessory outputs, you can still get this to work using the lock/unlock button on your remote, but that's a bit more complicated.
I went with a 15lb solenoid, however I recommend a 10-11lb one instead. 15lb is overkill, and the solenoid was so large that getting it positioned was an exercise in anger management. It only takes a few lbs of force to work the latch mechanism.
Remove the plastic trim and the interior panel below it. You may need to pull out the floor panels too.
The wire circled can be unplugged if needed to get the latch out of the way. I believe that's the trunk light trigger.
Remove the bolts securing the latch with a 12mm socket. The item in red is the cable housing for the stock lever, and can be temporarily disconnected if desired.
Using the solenoid bracket as a template, mark the locations for drilling. It's a good idea to test fit the bracket inside the panel before drilling, to make sure you have chosen a location that fits. Drill your holes.
Insert the bracket (mine only fit through the larger opening beside the latch), and use pliers to hold it in place below the holes you drilled.
Start with the screw farthest from the latch opening, and secure it to the bracket. Then, using a magnetic screwdriver, get that nut on as best you can. Don't screw it all the way up, as it will be tightened against the solenoid body. Then do the other screw.
Insert the solenoid through the latch opening. Remember to connect the power and ground wires to the back of the solenoid before you get it mounted! You can see that the 15lb solenoid was a tight squeeze: I did have to bend the surrounding sheet metal slightly to get it in there.
Slide it into the bracket, and screw the bolts down tightly onto the solenoid body, starting with the farther bolt. Use needle nose pliers to tighten the nut on the end of the bolt. Yes, it's a major pain. No photo, since I was getting pissed and by now my back was killing me from leaning over my trunk for so long. A stool would have been nice.
I modified the hardware below, which is included in the trunk kit. I basically made it into a hook half the length.
Hook it into the small hole immediately above where the stock trunk release wire ends. There is a spring sharing that hole.
Update 04/20/05: Post continued below due to the new site's image restrictions.
-Solenoid kit. Do not use a door lock actuator.
-Wire stripper/crimper
-Power wire, rings, crimps (or solder)
-Philips head screwdriver with magnetic extension
-1-2 pairs needle nose pliers
-12mm socket + wrench + short extension
-Drill with appropriately sized bit
-Several good brews (I went with Brooklyn Brown)
This is a DIY for mounting the solenoid only. How you choose to activate the solenoid is up to you. Most of the solenoids come with hardware and a button, although I don't see the point of disabling the stock lever and hiding a button when a thief can just put the rear seats down to access the trunk. I suppose it could help if you have amps or a big enclosure. I connected mine to a relay activated by an accessory output on my alarm. I can post info on that setup if anyone needs it. If you don't have any available accessory outputs, you can still get this to work using the lock/unlock button on your remote, but that's a bit more complicated.
I went with a 15lb solenoid, however I recommend a 10-11lb one instead. 15lb is overkill, and the solenoid was so large that getting it positioned was an exercise in anger management. It only takes a few lbs of force to work the latch mechanism.
Remove the plastic trim and the interior panel below it. You may need to pull out the floor panels too.
The wire circled can be unplugged if needed to get the latch out of the way. I believe that's the trunk light trigger.
Remove the bolts securing the latch with a 12mm socket. The item in red is the cable housing for the stock lever, and can be temporarily disconnected if desired.
Using the solenoid bracket as a template, mark the locations for drilling. It's a good idea to test fit the bracket inside the panel before drilling, to make sure you have chosen a location that fits. Drill your holes.
Insert the bracket (mine only fit through the larger opening beside the latch), and use pliers to hold it in place below the holes you drilled.
Start with the screw farthest from the latch opening, and secure it to the bracket. Then, using a magnetic screwdriver, get that nut on as best you can. Don't screw it all the way up, as it will be tightened against the solenoid body. Then do the other screw.
Insert the solenoid through the latch opening. Remember to connect the power and ground wires to the back of the solenoid before you get it mounted! You can see that the 15lb solenoid was a tight squeeze: I did have to bend the surrounding sheet metal slightly to get it in there.
Slide it into the bracket, and screw the bolts down tightly onto the solenoid body, starting with the farther bolt. Use needle nose pliers to tighten the nut on the end of the bolt. Yes, it's a major pain. No photo, since I was getting pissed and by now my back was killing me from leaning over my trunk for so long. A stool would have been nice.
I modified the hardware below, which is included in the trunk kit. I basically made it into a hook half the length.
Hook it into the small hole immediately above where the stock trunk release wire ends. There is a spring sharing that hole.
Update 04/20/05: Post continued below due to the new site's image restrictions.
03-30-2005, 11:44 AM
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Sweet! Thanks for doing such a great DIY. Ive been wondering how that was done. Fixing to tackle my alarm this weekend so ill have to get me a popper now and try this. Where did u get this one from?
03-30-2005, 06:24 PM
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*Continued*
Attach the cable so that there is no slack. It looks like a sharp angle in the photo below, but the wire is not contacting the plastic edge of the solenoid, and it just misses the latch bracket. Since this is a simple magnetic pull motor, there's nothing to damage with a slight angle, unlike with a door lock actuator.
Do not attach the solenoid wire to the key release! That only operates when a key is in the cylinder. I learned that the hard way.
Although you can simply attach the solenoid wire to the stock release wire, doing so makes the release lever in the car go up on its own, which I find too freakish. Attaching to the release mechanism itself is the best bet.
Don't forget to ground the solenoid. There's a convenient bolt with two stock wires grounded already present nearby. It's probably a bad idea to ground using the bolts securing the solenoid.
Here's where I ran the power wire (green). It goes all the way along the driver's side of the car and through the firewall to the battery via relay. You will need extra power wire to reach. The fuse should be placed as close to the power source as possible. Use caution if you tap into a stock wire for power. Don't blame me if you blow fuses or melt an ignition wire because you didn't run it to the battery. Make sure you use the inline resistor, which is included with the kits and built into the power wire.
That's it. There's no ideal location in the Tiburon unfortunately, so it has to be a bit close to the latch, near the only hole for positioning everything. If you trim the cable, remember to tape, heatshrink, or crimp the end to prevent fraying.
Professionally installed and wired to an alarm will usually run $40-60 for the solenoid plus $20 for a relay, and an hour labor: do it yourself and you're looking at $25 at most. Relays are cheap on ebay as well.
*End*
Original reply:
I purchased this solenoid from honestdee, who shipped the same day I paid. There are 10lb kits on ebay as well, and they should be smaller than the one I used, which would really make this installation easier and allow the wire to pull straighter. If anyone uses a 10lb solenoid, please let me know how it goes.
Attach the cable so that there is no slack. It looks like a sharp angle in the photo below, but the wire is not contacting the plastic edge of the solenoid, and it just misses the latch bracket. Since this is a simple magnetic pull motor, there's nothing to damage with a slight angle, unlike with a door lock actuator.
Do not attach the solenoid wire to the key release! That only operates when a key is in the cylinder. I learned that the hard way.
Although you can simply attach the solenoid wire to the stock release wire, doing so makes the release lever in the car go up on its own, which I find too freakish. Attaching to the release mechanism itself is the best bet.
Don't forget to ground the solenoid. There's a convenient bolt with two stock wires grounded already present nearby. It's probably a bad idea to ground using the bolts securing the solenoid.
Here's where I ran the power wire (green). It goes all the way along the driver's side of the car and through the firewall to the battery via relay. You will need extra power wire to reach. The fuse should be placed as close to the power source as possible. Use caution if you tap into a stock wire for power. Don't blame me if you blow fuses or melt an ignition wire because you didn't run it to the battery. Make sure you use the inline resistor, which is included with the kits and built into the power wire.
That's it. There's no ideal location in the Tiburon unfortunately, so it has to be a bit close to the latch, near the only hole for positioning everything. If you trim the cable, remember to tape, heatshrink, or crimp the end to prevent fraying.
Professionally installed and wired to an alarm will usually run $40-60 for the solenoid plus $20 for a relay, and an hour labor: do it yourself and you're looking at $25 at most. Relays are cheap on ebay as well.
*End*
Original reply:
I purchased this solenoid from honestdee, who shipped the same day I paid. There are 10lb kits on ebay as well, and they should be smaller than the one I used, which would really make this installation easier and allow the wire to pull straighter. If anyone uses a 10lb solenoid, please let me know how it goes.
03-30-2005, 08:39 PM
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Good news: with that diameter you're going to have a much easier time installing. I wish I had gone with that rating. More power definitely isn't better in this case. You won't have to force it in and will have more options for where you mount.
Here are a few basic diagrams of trunk popper setup showing the switch wiring:
The relay in the latter diagram is correct if you plan to install the switch as well, which would need to be before the relay of course. Another example of the relay needed if you have a negative accessory output:
Here are a few basic diagrams of trunk popper setup showing the switch wiring:
The relay in the latter diagram is correct if you plan to install the switch as well, which would need to be before the relay of course. Another example of the relay needed if you have a negative accessory output:
03-30-2005, 09:50 PM
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (tanc)</div><div class='quotemain'>My trunk already pops up and it's stock.
I'm confused.</div>
This is for REMOTE popping, ie, hooked up to an Aux button on your alarm / remote starter.
BTW, EXCELLENT DIY!!! :biggthump
I'm confused.</div>
This is for REMOTE popping, ie, hooked up to an Aux button on your alarm / remote starter.
BTW, EXCELLENT DIY!!! :biggthump