JBob250

i like it a lot. defintely cool. id like to put the switch as the missing rear fog light switch, and the starter button in the cig lighter.

but how does the acc work? sometimes i just like to ahve my lights on and my stereo going, but is that not an option here? also, if proximity could be done... i think id cry out of happiness. a friends of mine's dad has a infinity g35x with it and its definitely amazing.

01tibby

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (DrivingTibNaked @ Aug 15 2007, 01:02 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>^^ Is there an "engine running" signal wire? I think that could get pretty complicated if there is not.</div>

im pretty sure from my alarm days that i found one, just can't recall.

but there are other things you could do. like use the ebrake, i would only start my car if the ebrake is on, and then immediately disengage it. once its disengaged you could make it so that the switch is inactive. also sort of a safety thing(even though you're in the car).

TheFuzz7532

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (JBob250 @ Aug 16 2007, 01:50 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>i like it a lot. defintely cool. id like to put the switch as the missing rear fog light switch, and the starter button in the cig lighter.

but how does the acc work? sometimes i just like to ahve my lights on and my stereo going, but is that not an option here?</div>

The starter button in the cigarette lighter sucks in my opinion. You are constantly bending over to push it in, and you can't start the car if you have your cup holder out, so if the car stalls when you have it out...you'd be rushing to throw you cup aside and start the car. You also need to make it fit flush in the cigarette lighter because there is a notch out of the one side to allow the plastic guard to stick in, if you don't, the button will push right through (unless you get a bigger button of course!).

You're acc will still work like they do right now. All this does is change the "start" position on the ignition. You can still turn the key to acc and listen to the radio, have your lights on, just as before smile.gif .

Sorry guys, I've had my internet taken away (long story) and haven't been able to get online

katecauzintrouble

Not sure if this was mentioned, but i thought i should mention this in case there are people out there that don't know much about 12v...

ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS solder your connections/t-taps if you are messing around with the ignition harness, as well as taping. This ensures an awesome SAFE connection. If you just t-tap and tape there's a good posibility that after a period of time the connection will loosen... possibility of sparks when the wires jump around which equals the chance of fire - NOT a good scene. blowup.gif

General rule is that if it's a small guage wire (thick), that should trigger some logic in your head that there is a lot of power running through it, and as such, should have good connections for safety.

Also, it's a good idea to have a 12v-safe test light and a Digital Multimeter around to help you identify you have the correct wires, which ones are power/ground, etc.

Hope this helps smile.gif

DTN

^^ I've never heard of soldering a T-Tap. The whole point of them is to retain the structure of the wire, including the shielding. They fully enclose the wire, and when they're hooked up with the male portion inserted, they are locked in place with no way to open them.

There is no need to solder a T-Tap. Just use the proper size. They work great if you use them properly. Yellow=10-12AWG, Blue - 14-16AWG, red = 18-20awg.

n lamens terms, the largest wires in the dashboard= yellow, the smallest wires in the car = red, and all the rest = blue.




The stress on a T is sideways from the force of the wire being pulled. Where as the male connector going into the T connector is in line with the pulling stress. You should solder the male connector, but there really is no need to solder the T itself. it is not designed to need soldering. Also, you'll end up melting some of the shielding of the wire, not to mention risk melting the T also.

Ericy321

I just did this to cure my no crank problem after i couldnt track down why it wouldnt crank. Im going to use the ebrake idea I think for a safety. I really like the idea of that.

TheFuzz7532

I'd check out the wiring for the E-brake and tap off of it. I've never had a problem with my switch(es) and I love having two for safety. Let us know how it goes.

katecauzintrouble

Regarding the T-tap, i didn't know you were using actual crimp connectors. When i t-tap i don't use them, just strip, poke a hole in the centre, thread through and wrap - hence the soldering. I guess school wanted us to learn how to do it without the connectors, either that or they were cheap tongue.gif

btw - nice diy!