DIY: Slave Cylinder Mod
09-23-2009, 09:19 AM
#1
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DIY: Slave Cylinder Mod
Written by wytchdctr
The Free Slave Cylinder Mod
Time: 10min... or so
Hard: Nope
What does it do?!?!. Your slave cyl. has a spring and a plate inside that reduce the amount and speed of the fluid going from the clutch master cyl to the slave. This helps you slip your clutch, incase you can't drive. Why does this suck? Because it’s slipping your damn clutch. After removing this, the clutch will engage and disengage just a little bit quicker. Really nice when paired with a short throw shifter.
Tools:
A socket wrench set
Bottle of brake fluid (big, probably about time to flush the system anyway)
Rags
Magnetic Screwdriver
Clear plastic tube for bleeding/not making a mess (optional)
How to:
Step 1:
If you have your stock intake, remove it. Some aftermarket intakes may not require this step. This is the clutch slave cylinder, mounted on top of the transmission:
Step 2:
If you don’t want to make a big mess, attach the hose to the bleeder fitting on top (under the plastic cap) and bleed all of the fluid out. If not, put a rag behind the slave cylinder (towards the fire wall).
Step 3:
See the big nut to the right of the line? Remove it. If you did not empty the system already it’s about to empty itself. Once you remove that bolt (banjo fitting) DO NOT LOSE THE WASHER! Set it carefully to the side with the bolt. The washer is actually a hydraulic oil seal.
Step 4:
On my car the spring/plate fell out on its own. On Ryan’s accent we had to use a magnetic screw driver. If it doesn’t fall out, push something magnetic up into/against the hole you just made in the slave cyl. Don’t cram the screw driver into it, just hold it up against the back of the slave cylinder. The spring and restrictor plate are magnetic and not held in by anything.
Step 5:
Save for later, throw away, bronze, or make an action figure out of that spring and the plate. Duct tape it to your hood, cat, mail man . . . whatever. Whatever you want to do with it, just don’t put the restrictor back in the slave cyl.
Step 6:
Replace the washer and banjo fitting just like it came back out. This does not need a ton of torque on it. Just like you do with your oil drain plug.
Step 7:
Bleed the system. Fill the reservoir up, put a clear plastic tube on the bleeder valve (take the cap off first), have someone pump the clutch pedal a few times, pump and hold, turn the bleeder until fluid starts to move, close it before the system looses all of its pressure, repeat the pump/hold turn the valve until you see no air bubbles moving through the plastic tube. Make sure you don’t run the reservoir dry doing that. Top off the fluid and you're done.
The Free Slave Cylinder Mod
Time: 10min... or so
Hard: Nope
What does it do?!?!. Your slave cyl. has a spring and a plate inside that reduce the amount and speed of the fluid going from the clutch master cyl to the slave. This helps you slip your clutch, incase you can't drive. Why does this suck? Because it’s slipping your damn clutch. After removing this, the clutch will engage and disengage just a little bit quicker. Really nice when paired with a short throw shifter.
Tools:
A socket wrench set
Bottle of brake fluid (big, probably about time to flush the system anyway)
Rags
Magnetic Screwdriver
Clear plastic tube for bleeding/not making a mess (optional)
How to:
Step 1:
If you have your stock intake, remove it. Some aftermarket intakes may not require this step. This is the clutch slave cylinder, mounted on top of the transmission:
Step 2:
If you don’t want to make a big mess, attach the hose to the bleeder fitting on top (under the plastic cap) and bleed all of the fluid out. If not, put a rag behind the slave cylinder (towards the fire wall).
Step 3:
See the big nut to the right of the line? Remove it. If you did not empty the system already it’s about to empty itself. Once you remove that bolt (banjo fitting) DO NOT LOSE THE WASHER! Set it carefully to the side with the bolt. The washer is actually a hydraulic oil seal.
Step 4:
On my car the spring/plate fell out on its own. On Ryan’s accent we had to use a magnetic screw driver. If it doesn’t fall out, push something magnetic up into/against the hole you just made in the slave cyl. Don’t cram the screw driver into it, just hold it up against the back of the slave cylinder. The spring and restrictor plate are magnetic and not held in by anything.
Step 5:
Save for later, throw away, bronze, or make an action figure out of that spring and the plate. Duct tape it to your hood, cat, mail man . . . whatever. Whatever you want to do with it, just don’t put the restrictor back in the slave cyl.
Step 6:
Replace the washer and banjo fitting just like it came back out. This does not need a ton of torque on it. Just like you do with your oil drain plug.
Step 7:
Bleed the system. Fill the reservoir up, put a clear plastic tube on the bleeder valve (take the cap off first), have someone pump the clutch pedal a few times, pump and hold, turn the bleeder until fluid starts to move, close it before the system looses all of its pressure, repeat the pump/hold turn the valve until you see no air bubbles moving through the plastic tube. Make sure you don’t run the reservoir dry doing that. Top off the fluid and you're done.
11-02-2009, 07:58 PM
#4
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Vehicle: 1998 Hyundai Accent
again.. what does that translate into. better "bite"?
pedal feel change?
what about in a racing application for 1/4 mile track.
pedal feel change?
what about in a racing application for 1/4 mile track.
11-03-2009, 01:15 AM
#5
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Vehicle: 2002 Accent
better bite and yes prob a better 1/4 mile time.
it makes your clutch engage quicker which means less time that your engine isn't powering your car 100%
it makes your clutch engage quicker which means less time that your engine isn't powering your car 100%
01-14-2010, 03:57 PM
#7
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Vehicle: 2006 Pontiac GTO
This will make the engagement a little harsher, especially with hyundai's clutches which don't have a nice long transition between "ON" and "OFF".
But since stock clutches are not that strong, I liked it a lot when I did this mod.. but after I upgraded to a better clutch it kinda sucked so I put the spring back in.
But since stock clutches are not that strong, I liked it a lot when I did this mod.. but after I upgraded to a better clutch it kinda sucked so I put the spring back in.
04-26-2011, 08:27 PM
#9
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Photos are back, hosted on a post-and-forget photobucket account. Thanks WytchDctr!
If you have a standard transmission, you need to change the clutch fluid anyway. Now is the perfect time, you should do this mod.
ETA: added to the DIY list sticky thread
If you have a standard transmission, you need to change the clutch fluid anyway. Now is the perfect time, you should do this mod.
ETA: added to the DIY list sticky thread
04-27-2011, 01:49 AM
#10
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Vehicle: X3 Sprint, S-Coupe Turbo
i accidentally did this mod on my LC and X3. i thought it was only the tib slaves that had it. both cars are off the road though D:, so i can't really comment on the pedal feel.