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Diy: Deglaze Clutch

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Old Oct 10, 2007 | 02:58 PM
  #1  
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My clutch was lightly glazed. It would slip and then grip hard when I would put it in gear. It happened because I was messing around doing a nitrous burnout to impress a friend. All week long it had been slipping and was kind of rough to drive.

I did some reading on the internet and came up with a way to deglaze the flywheel and pressure plate. It works! The idea is to get friction across the clutch without building up heat. Basically, turn the clutch disk into a grinder.

Reverse grinding the clutch:
1. Get speed up to 35 miles per hour
2. Put transmission into 2nd gear
3. lightly engauge clutch until RPMs start to rise.
4. hold rpms steady at about 1200-1300RPM for 10 secconds

Standard grinding the clutch:
1. place parking brake on
2. put transmission into 1st gear
3. rev engine to 4,000 rpm
4. engauge clutch to point where RPMs start to drop
5. hold for 10 seconds.

Allow time to cool off, repeat as necessary.

Last time I changed my clutch was because I had glazed it pretty badly after I installed nitrous. It took 14 hours, $80 in parts, and about $50 in shop time. If you go to a dealership, they charge $600+ to change your clutch. This will save someone money.


Oh yeah.. To satisfy the DIY requrements, here's a picture..


That's the last clutch I replaced because it was glazed. You can see that it has plenty of meat. Had I known about this trick, i would not have needed to replace it.
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Old Oct 10, 2007 | 09:42 PM
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i have a slight problem with my clutch when i shift gear more 3-4-5 the rpm bouce a lot !!

evan when i'm already in say 4th gear at more then 4000rpm and i hit the gaz pedal the rpm bouce a bit sad.gif

would doing that solve my problem ??
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Old Oct 10, 2007 | 10:49 PM
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Definitely gonna try this as soon as i get my clutch mc replaced.

now do you have to do both procedures or just one of them?
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Old Oct 11, 2007 | 04:17 AM
  #4  
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From: Leesville, Louisiana
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^^ heheh.. the whole point is so that you dont have to replace the clutch so frequently! This deglazes the clutch. When you install a clutch, you want to glaze it slightly. Until it starts to glaze, it wears the clutch more and throws alot of clutch dust. That's why you need to go easy for 500 miles. This is for when it glazes too much.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (MaveRick @ Oct 10 2007, 11:42 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>i have a slight problem with my clutch when i shift gear more 3-4-5 the rpm bouce a lot !!

evan when i'm already in say 4th gear at more then 4000rpm and i hit the gaz pedal the rpm bouce a bit sad.gif

would doing that solve my problem ??</div>

It could be, or it could be engine mounts.
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Old Oct 11, 2007 | 04:04 PM
  #5  
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Nice!!!!!

Glad to add this trick to my bag o tricks!
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Old Oct 13, 2007 | 10:19 AM
  #6  
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (DrivingTibNaked @ Oct 11 2007, 06:17 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>^^ heheh.. the whole point is so that you dont have to replace the clutch so frequently! This deglazes the clutch. When you install a clutch, you want to glaze it slightly. Until it starts to glaze, it wears the clutch more and throws alot of clutch dust. That's why you need to go easy for 500 miles.</div>

im not replacing my clutch, im replacing the clutch master cylinder, i was just too damn lazy to write the whole thing.

i can't do either of these cuz its a major b**** to get into gear. when i do get it into gear, it starts moving forward by itself even with the clutch pedal all the way down. so i will try this after replacing the clutch MC.

so with that stated, once again, do i have to do both procedures or just one?
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Old Oct 28, 2007 | 06:36 PM
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Just one will work, the reverse method would be more effective.... I'd do them both. It works.
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Old Dec 21, 2007 | 03:04 PM
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If the mc doesn't work, try the slave cylinder that is mounted to the trans.
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Old May 5, 2009 | 10:58 AM
  #9  
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that DIY seems interesting since i'm having problem with my clutch slipping when doing quick launch. I know that my 17year old driving skills might not help but isn't that just burning(by burning i mean making smoke and a crappy smell...yeah already happened accidently lol) the clutch??


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>Standard grinding the clutch:
1. place parking brake on
2. put transmission into 1st gear
3. rev engine to 4,000 rpm
4. engauge clutch to point where RPMs start to drop
5. hold for 10 seconds.</div>
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Old May 5, 2009 | 01:45 PM
  #10  
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NO! there's a difference, like I said, you're creating a light bit of friction, but not heat. Heat will burn up the clutch. You just want to use the clutch disk to wear on the surface without causing a new glaze.
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