DIY: Clutch Install (Beta Transmission)
09-23-2009, 09:14 AM
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DIY: Clutch Install (Beta Transmission)
Written by wytchdctr:
Tools needed:
10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 24mm and 32mm sockets
17mm 12 point (if you are going to take off the flywheel)
Ratchets to match
Breaker Bar
Pry Bar
Flat head screw driver (semi large)
Pliers
Clutch Alignment tool (ask for a 94 Eclipse 1.8ltre.. they will have it 7/8" 20 spline)
Impact wrench
Impact ratchet
Two jacks
Two jack stands
Two caulk blocks
Torque wrench. (Adjustable from 14lbs to 160lbs I had two)
Service Manual (for torque specs)
Something to organize stuff with. Boxes or baggies something.
Materials needed:
Brake Fluid
High Temp Grease
Trans Fluid 75w90 GL4 3 quarts
Clutch Disk
Pressure Plate
Throw Out Bearing (DO NOT ATTACH IT TO THE PP)
At least one friend dumb enough to help with this
Recommended:
Axle Seals (2)
New or machined flywheel or have it machined
(buy from here 2.0L Beta Flywheel - Used or 2.0L Beta Flywheel - Resurfaced)
1. Remove the intake and battery (along with the tray) if you cant do this stop here. Once those two are cleared out removed the slave cylinder. This is pretty easy, three bolts hold it with one clip/pin thing attached to the arm. Just push the line back onto the fender. If you don't want to make a mess find a rubber/plastic hose and bleed all the fluid out. I just put a rag under the banjo fitting and unbolted it. Once that is cleared out unbolt the arm that attaches to the clutch fork (the thing attacked to the slave cyl. That has one bolt holding it down). Its keyed so don't worry about its orientation. IF YOU DON'T DO THIS YOU WILL NOT GET THE TRANS TO SEPARATE FROM THE ENGINE!!!.. Next take the shift cables off. Both of them are held on by small clips. Careful there are a lot of bushings that come off once you release them. I think the bracket is held on with two bolts. Remove those and push all of it to the backside of the engine. Since your there locate the two bolts holding the starter on and remove them. They both go thru the trans side of the bell housing and into the starter. Once its free push it back as well. There are two plugs going into the trans, remove them.
Picture 1: Shows basic stuff to remove. Remove the stuff with red arrows. The green box shows the area of picture 2.
Picture 2: Shows the part that keeps the trans from seperating from the motor once all the bolts are removed. Removed the bolt/arm with the red arrow. The blue arrow shows the slave cyl itself. The Green arrow shows the shift linkage.
2. Getting the Axles Out
Now that all the small stuff is cleared out its time to get the car in the air. Jack up the car and install jack stands in the proper location just under the door on that lip. Put the blocks behind the rear tires and remove both front tires. This is a good time to drain the trans fluid. It's a large gold colored bolt on the very bottom of the trans. MAKE SURE TO CHECK TORQUE SPECS WHEN REINSTALLING. You don't want to over torque and damage that thing. Now that its got no fluid and the drain bolt is back in remove the two large castle nuts on each side. They are freaking huge, 32mm, and are on tight. First remove the cotter pin. One of mine was a pain and the other slide right out. Your going to need someone to stand on the brakes and have a large breaker bar/large 32mm wrench being beaten on with a hammer or impact to get it to come off. I recommend doing both sides before disassembling any further because the brakes help with this. Now that they are both off start with one side or the other. Take off the brake caliper (just the upper portion the bracket can stay) hang the caliper using a bungie cord or something on the coil. Now remove the two large bolts mounting the knuckle to the coil. I recommend using the impact to help you out here. Now have that friend who was holding the brakes help you pull the axle out of the knuckle as you lay the rotor over. The book says to release the tie rod during this step I did not. Now one of you go under the car with that flat head. Some say to yank on the axle but my book says don't because it can damage the cv joint. I had my friend put a small amount of pulling pressure as I worked the other side of the axle (on the diff) with the screw driver. One side was a pain and the other slide right off. If you do not have axle seals ONLY PUSH THE SCREW DRIVER IN 7mm MAX. If not you will damage the seals. I damaged the one that was giving me problems coming out but I had the seals handy. You want to put that screw driver in between the large (3-4inchs wide) metal cylinder on the axle and the diff. LEAVE THE BOOTS ALONE and take care to not damage them as they come out. Now go to the other side and do the same thing. The passenger side is harder to separate the axle from the knuckle. I assume its because of the toothed ring for the speedo. By the way, I took the two guides for that line off to give it more room to play. Now put those expensive basturds in a safe place.
Picture 3: Red arrow is the castle nut, 32mm. Use the brakes, green arrow, to hold the rotor when you try to break the castle nut loose. Blue arrows are pointing at the two bolts that hold the knuckle to the strut.
Picture 4: What it will look like after the axle is out. Green arrows showing jackpoint and the added safty of keeping a tire under the car behind the jackstand. Blue arrow shows how I secured the brake cailper to the spring. If you do not like any loose wires, you can tuck the connector up out of the way (make sure it's not against the moving portion of the steering column).
Picture 5: Shows where to pry at the axle (more than likely from under the car but you get the idea) LEAVE THE BOOT POINTED AT IN RED ALONE.
3. Unmounting
Again go under the car but this time you gonna need a lot of tools. Here is how I started the removal of the trans. I removed all the lower bell housing bolts first 4 (? Or 3?) are obvious. There are two 10mm that go straight up. I then removed the rear roll stop. Remove the mount AND the bracket on the trans.. I didn't do this at first and had to later for room to move it around. Nothing special here but some of the bolts may need the impacts help to get them to come off. Then get the front roll stop. Two bolts are easier to get from the top (near the radiator). The engine will stay up with the roll stops off!!. Now that everything below is free push the jacks (I put the larger of the two under the engine with a block of wood) under the car. I had one to help support the trans and I don't know if it needed it. It seemed to help control the trans as we slide it, again with the block of wood. Now that the engine is supported move under the hood again. (During the time I was under the car I had someone take the splash guard off of the drivers side, two bolts going up vertical hold it on, 10mm) I removed the drive side engine mount next. The bolts holding the mount are hidden behind two plugs in the wheel well. Put a rag or something in the socket when you take them out. I lost one in the fender, upps, but had another bolt handy so it wasn't that big of a deal. Now that the mount is free take the bracket off of the trans here as well. 3 bolts, one is hidden under the rubber portion of the mount. At this point I unscrewed (using the impact) the drivers side subframe a few turns. This gave me about an inch more room.
Picture 6: Red arrows show general location of 4 bolts holding upper portion of the bell housing on. The yellow arrow is the drivers side mount, Blue general area of rear rollstop (you can see it from the bottom... very easy to find), and the green shows the front roll stop.
Picture 7: Green arrow shows what the bolts on the drivers side look like that need to be loosened some to make room. The yellow shows what happens when you think you can make it out of a steep parking lot and you are lowered.
4. Separation
The trans is almost free. At this point be careful because the engine/trans can move back and forth easy. You have three bell housing bolts going from trans to engine to remove and two (one near the radiator and one near the firewall) going from engine to trans. The one near the firewall is a pain. I broke it loose after getting really pissed off. Now the trans is loose. There may be one or two bolts I am not remembering just look around, that's what I had to do. Now get the larger of you and your buddy to lean down and pull back on the trans. After a few light shakes my slide right off. With a little help from the jack we slide it back into the fender. Once more of it was on the fender we moved the jack. Too really get some room rotate the trans (counter clockwise from the drivers fender) and get the diff up on the frame. This rotation will also allow for that black plug to slide under the fender. No need for the jack it sits there just fine, I had one under it because I'm paranoid. Now you can see you're burnt up stock clutch. I took this time to clean out the bell housing area with a rag and mild degreaser. Also I greased the crap out of the clutch fork because I hated that squeaking noise it was making.
Picture 8: Blue Arrow shows how you need to rotate the trans far enough to slide that black plug under. Yellow arrow is showing what would normally be level for the trans.
Step 5: Clutch Removal/Install
Now its time to get that crap pressure plate out. Take your clutch alignment tool and put it in there unless you want to just drop the clutch on the ground. Remove the bolts that ring the pressure plate in a star pattern if possible to make it easier to take off. I did this with the help of someone under the car. You will need a pry bar against the ring gear to stop it from turning. After all the bolts are removed its still hard to get the pressure plate off thanks to the dowel pins on the flywheel. A flat head screw driver may help you out here. The clutch will come with it if you have the alignment tool in it. Now finagle that thing out. Now you can see your hot spot marked up flywheel. Those 17mm 12 point bolts are installed. If you can get your impact in there DO IT. Those things are in there good. It took many many hits with the impact to get them to start turning. The flywheel didn't try to turn on me when I used the impact. No impact good luck getting them off. Remove that and when the last bolt comes free have a hand on it. Don't drop the flywheel. Now either take it in for machining or open your new flywheel. Don't care to do crap with the flywheel then skip the last few steps. It might be a good idea to use new flywheel bolts. I didn't and the book doesn't say to but they are under a lot of stress. Now get that torque wrench ready it takes a lot for those bolts. Have someone hold the flywheel from under the car and start a few of the bolts. Have that same person or whoever get a socket and hold the crank pulley bolt. Now get that 17mm and an extension on your torque wrench and start pattern them on (ref. Manual for specs). Now the fun part. Getting the clutch and pressure plate back on the flywheel. I did it this way, first I took the disc and used a paint brush to cover all the splines of the clutch in high temp grease. You don't want to overdo it and have grease get on the friction surface, that would suck. Also clean the input shaft and if any grubby hands have touched the flywheel hit it with some brake cleaner. Now take the clutch and have someone hold it from under the car. Now install the alignment tool. Then put the pressure plate over the tool. I had a hell of a time with my ACT getting it on the damn dowel pins. Infact I had to take a file to the holes to remove that yellow paint. Make sure you put the dowels in the right holes. Easy way to check is see if all the bolt holes have threads under them and not solid metal and if it was really easy to slide on, wrong hole. Now install a few bolts after confirming the clutch is aligned right. Again with the torque wrench and the start pattern. Now the clutch and pressure plate are in its time to start putting it back together. DO NOT INSTALL THE TOB ON THE PRESSURE PLATE!!!. Take and grease the TOBs contact points and a light coat in the plastic sleeve. INSTALL THE TOB IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION (sleeve pointing towards the PP and not the trans) ON THE CLUTCH FORK.
Picture 9: Red arrows showing general location of the bolts that hold the flywheel, the other things are balancing weights. Leave them alone.
Picture 10: Yellow arrow shows hot to install the clutch alignment tool. This can be had an local parts store, dont ask for a Hyundai alignment tool. Ask for an alignment tool for a mitz or 7/8 20 spline. About $1 if your kit didn't come with one.
Picture 11: Red arrow showing the bolts that are a pain. My impact took about 3 min to break these bad boys. Watch them and you will see them turn very very slow for one full turn. THEN they come right off.
Picture 12: Red arrow shows the clutch fork you want to install the TOB on. The yellow arrow shots the input shaft the TOB should be slide over.
6. The stab
We got this on the second try and this is how I did it. Enlist your biggest buddy. Have him get the trans off the frame and rotated correctly. Ref. Two pin things on either side of the trans. They will show you its going in correctly. Slide the trans back towards the engine. I had some cables in the way and just used zip ties to hold them out of the way. We used the jack to help a little with supporting it. If you get the trans over the PP but it wont move any further back it up enough to get someone's hand in it and turn the input shaft just a little... very little (Reference above picture. Turn that shaft with the yellow arrow pointing at it). Push again. Once its lined up it'll slide right up to the motor. Now get one of the bolts in the top of the bell housing and correct the jacks position to make sure it stays. Now you can get all the upper bolts back in and tighten to proper torque. Reinstall the slave cylinder arm to the clutch fork and push it towards the firewall. If you don't hear a click something isn't right. I had to push a few times to get it. This is the TOB snapping into the PP. Reinstall the drivers side mount. Then reverse the order of dismounting. The only things to note are the following when its going back together.
7. Reinstallation
Make sure to use proper torque and the right bolts. Make sure when you slide the axles back in to have the C clips opening facing DOWN. When reinstalling the brakes use the pads on the side they came off of and clean them with some cleaner because they will be nasty. TORQUE EVERYTHING DOWN CORRECTLY. Make sure to bleed the clutch hydro system. And don't forget to put oil in the transmission.
Start it up in neutral and let it warm up. Be gentle for the first 500 miles.
Tools needed:
10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 24mm and 32mm sockets
17mm 12 point (if you are going to take off the flywheel)
Ratchets to match
Breaker Bar
Pry Bar
Flat head screw driver (semi large)
Pliers
Clutch Alignment tool (ask for a 94 Eclipse 1.8ltre.. they will have it 7/8" 20 spline)
Impact wrench
Impact ratchet
Two jacks
Two jack stands
Two caulk blocks
Torque wrench. (Adjustable from 14lbs to 160lbs I had two)
Service Manual (for torque specs)
Something to organize stuff with. Boxes or baggies something.
Materials needed:
Brake Fluid
High Temp Grease
Trans Fluid 75w90 GL4 3 quarts
Clutch Disk
Pressure Plate
Throw Out Bearing (DO NOT ATTACH IT TO THE PP)
At least one friend dumb enough to help with this
Recommended:
Axle Seals (2)
New or machined flywheel or have it machined
(buy from here 2.0L Beta Flywheel - Used or 2.0L Beta Flywheel - Resurfaced)
1. Remove the intake and battery (along with the tray) if you cant do this stop here. Once those two are cleared out removed the slave cylinder. This is pretty easy, three bolts hold it with one clip/pin thing attached to the arm. Just push the line back onto the fender. If you don't want to make a mess find a rubber/plastic hose and bleed all the fluid out. I just put a rag under the banjo fitting and unbolted it. Once that is cleared out unbolt the arm that attaches to the clutch fork (the thing attacked to the slave cyl. That has one bolt holding it down). Its keyed so don't worry about its orientation. IF YOU DON'T DO THIS YOU WILL NOT GET THE TRANS TO SEPARATE FROM THE ENGINE!!!.. Next take the shift cables off. Both of them are held on by small clips. Careful there are a lot of bushings that come off once you release them. I think the bracket is held on with two bolts. Remove those and push all of it to the backside of the engine. Since your there locate the two bolts holding the starter on and remove them. They both go thru the trans side of the bell housing and into the starter. Once its free push it back as well. There are two plugs going into the trans, remove them.
Picture 1: Shows basic stuff to remove. Remove the stuff with red arrows. The green box shows the area of picture 2.
Picture 2: Shows the part that keeps the trans from seperating from the motor once all the bolts are removed. Removed the bolt/arm with the red arrow. The blue arrow shows the slave cyl itself. The Green arrow shows the shift linkage.
2. Getting the Axles Out
Now that all the small stuff is cleared out its time to get the car in the air. Jack up the car and install jack stands in the proper location just under the door on that lip. Put the blocks behind the rear tires and remove both front tires. This is a good time to drain the trans fluid. It's a large gold colored bolt on the very bottom of the trans. MAKE SURE TO CHECK TORQUE SPECS WHEN REINSTALLING. You don't want to over torque and damage that thing. Now that its got no fluid and the drain bolt is back in remove the two large castle nuts on each side. They are freaking huge, 32mm, and are on tight. First remove the cotter pin. One of mine was a pain and the other slide right out. Your going to need someone to stand on the brakes and have a large breaker bar/large 32mm wrench being beaten on with a hammer or impact to get it to come off. I recommend doing both sides before disassembling any further because the brakes help with this. Now that they are both off start with one side or the other. Take off the brake caliper (just the upper portion the bracket can stay) hang the caliper using a bungie cord or something on the coil. Now remove the two large bolts mounting the knuckle to the coil. I recommend using the impact to help you out here. Now have that friend who was holding the brakes help you pull the axle out of the knuckle as you lay the rotor over. The book says to release the tie rod during this step I did not. Now one of you go under the car with that flat head. Some say to yank on the axle but my book says don't because it can damage the cv joint. I had my friend put a small amount of pulling pressure as I worked the other side of the axle (on the diff) with the screw driver. One side was a pain and the other slide right off. If you do not have axle seals ONLY PUSH THE SCREW DRIVER IN 7mm MAX. If not you will damage the seals. I damaged the one that was giving me problems coming out but I had the seals handy. You want to put that screw driver in between the large (3-4inchs wide) metal cylinder on the axle and the diff. LEAVE THE BOOTS ALONE and take care to not damage them as they come out. Now go to the other side and do the same thing. The passenger side is harder to separate the axle from the knuckle. I assume its because of the toothed ring for the speedo. By the way, I took the two guides for that line off to give it more room to play. Now put those expensive basturds in a safe place.
Picture 3: Red arrow is the castle nut, 32mm. Use the brakes, green arrow, to hold the rotor when you try to break the castle nut loose. Blue arrows are pointing at the two bolts that hold the knuckle to the strut.
Picture 4: What it will look like after the axle is out. Green arrows showing jackpoint and the added safty of keeping a tire under the car behind the jackstand. Blue arrow shows how I secured the brake cailper to the spring. If you do not like any loose wires, you can tuck the connector up out of the way (make sure it's not against the moving portion of the steering column).
Picture 5: Shows where to pry at the axle (more than likely from under the car but you get the idea) LEAVE THE BOOT POINTED AT IN RED ALONE.
3. Unmounting
Again go under the car but this time you gonna need a lot of tools. Here is how I started the removal of the trans. I removed all the lower bell housing bolts first 4 (? Or 3?) are obvious. There are two 10mm that go straight up. I then removed the rear roll stop. Remove the mount AND the bracket on the trans.. I didn't do this at first and had to later for room to move it around. Nothing special here but some of the bolts may need the impacts help to get them to come off. Then get the front roll stop. Two bolts are easier to get from the top (near the radiator). The engine will stay up with the roll stops off!!. Now that everything below is free push the jacks (I put the larger of the two under the engine with a block of wood) under the car. I had one to help support the trans and I don't know if it needed it. It seemed to help control the trans as we slide it, again with the block of wood. Now that the engine is supported move under the hood again. (During the time I was under the car I had someone take the splash guard off of the drivers side, two bolts going up vertical hold it on, 10mm) I removed the drive side engine mount next. The bolts holding the mount are hidden behind two plugs in the wheel well. Put a rag or something in the socket when you take them out. I lost one in the fender, upps, but had another bolt handy so it wasn't that big of a deal. Now that the mount is free take the bracket off of the trans here as well. 3 bolts, one is hidden under the rubber portion of the mount. At this point I unscrewed (using the impact) the drivers side subframe a few turns. This gave me about an inch more room.
Picture 6: Red arrows show general location of 4 bolts holding upper portion of the bell housing on. The yellow arrow is the drivers side mount, Blue general area of rear rollstop (you can see it from the bottom... very easy to find), and the green shows the front roll stop.
Picture 7: Green arrow shows what the bolts on the drivers side look like that need to be loosened some to make room. The yellow shows what happens when you think you can make it out of a steep parking lot and you are lowered.
4. Separation
The trans is almost free. At this point be careful because the engine/trans can move back and forth easy. You have three bell housing bolts going from trans to engine to remove and two (one near the radiator and one near the firewall) going from engine to trans. The one near the firewall is a pain. I broke it loose after getting really pissed off. Now the trans is loose. There may be one or two bolts I am not remembering just look around, that's what I had to do. Now get the larger of you and your buddy to lean down and pull back on the trans. After a few light shakes my slide right off. With a little help from the jack we slide it back into the fender. Once more of it was on the fender we moved the jack. Too really get some room rotate the trans (counter clockwise from the drivers fender) and get the diff up on the frame. This rotation will also allow for that black plug to slide under the fender. No need for the jack it sits there just fine, I had one under it because I'm paranoid. Now you can see you're burnt up stock clutch. I took this time to clean out the bell housing area with a rag and mild degreaser. Also I greased the crap out of the clutch fork because I hated that squeaking noise it was making.
Picture 8: Blue Arrow shows how you need to rotate the trans far enough to slide that black plug under. Yellow arrow is showing what would normally be level for the trans.
Step 5: Clutch Removal/Install
Now its time to get that crap pressure plate out. Take your clutch alignment tool and put it in there unless you want to just drop the clutch on the ground. Remove the bolts that ring the pressure plate in a star pattern if possible to make it easier to take off. I did this with the help of someone under the car. You will need a pry bar against the ring gear to stop it from turning. After all the bolts are removed its still hard to get the pressure plate off thanks to the dowel pins on the flywheel. A flat head screw driver may help you out here. The clutch will come with it if you have the alignment tool in it. Now finagle that thing out. Now you can see your hot spot marked up flywheel. Those 17mm 12 point bolts are installed. If you can get your impact in there DO IT. Those things are in there good. It took many many hits with the impact to get them to start turning. The flywheel didn't try to turn on me when I used the impact. No impact good luck getting them off. Remove that and when the last bolt comes free have a hand on it. Don't drop the flywheel. Now either take it in for machining or open your new flywheel. Don't care to do crap with the flywheel then skip the last few steps. It might be a good idea to use new flywheel bolts. I didn't and the book doesn't say to but they are under a lot of stress. Now get that torque wrench ready it takes a lot for those bolts. Have someone hold the flywheel from under the car and start a few of the bolts. Have that same person or whoever get a socket and hold the crank pulley bolt. Now get that 17mm and an extension on your torque wrench and start pattern them on (ref. Manual for specs). Now the fun part. Getting the clutch and pressure plate back on the flywheel. I did it this way, first I took the disc and used a paint brush to cover all the splines of the clutch in high temp grease. You don't want to overdo it and have grease get on the friction surface, that would suck. Also clean the input shaft and if any grubby hands have touched the flywheel hit it with some brake cleaner. Now take the clutch and have someone hold it from under the car. Now install the alignment tool. Then put the pressure plate over the tool. I had a hell of a time with my ACT getting it on the damn dowel pins. Infact I had to take a file to the holes to remove that yellow paint. Make sure you put the dowels in the right holes. Easy way to check is see if all the bolt holes have threads under them and not solid metal and if it was really easy to slide on, wrong hole. Now install a few bolts after confirming the clutch is aligned right. Again with the torque wrench and the start pattern. Now the clutch and pressure plate are in its time to start putting it back together. DO NOT INSTALL THE TOB ON THE PRESSURE PLATE!!!. Take and grease the TOBs contact points and a light coat in the plastic sleeve. INSTALL THE TOB IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION (sleeve pointing towards the PP and not the trans) ON THE CLUTCH FORK.
Picture 9: Red arrows showing general location of the bolts that hold the flywheel, the other things are balancing weights. Leave them alone.
Picture 10: Yellow arrow shows hot to install the clutch alignment tool. This can be had an local parts store, dont ask for a Hyundai alignment tool. Ask for an alignment tool for a mitz or 7/8 20 spline. About $1 if your kit didn't come with one.
Picture 11: Red arrow showing the bolts that are a pain. My impact took about 3 min to break these bad boys. Watch them and you will see them turn very very slow for one full turn. THEN they come right off.
Picture 12: Red arrow shows the clutch fork you want to install the TOB on. The yellow arrow shots the input shaft the TOB should be slide over.
6. The stab
We got this on the second try and this is how I did it. Enlist your biggest buddy. Have him get the trans off the frame and rotated correctly. Ref. Two pin things on either side of the trans. They will show you its going in correctly. Slide the trans back towards the engine. I had some cables in the way and just used zip ties to hold them out of the way. We used the jack to help a little with supporting it. If you get the trans over the PP but it wont move any further back it up enough to get someone's hand in it and turn the input shaft just a little... very little (Reference above picture. Turn that shaft with the yellow arrow pointing at it). Push again. Once its lined up it'll slide right up to the motor. Now get one of the bolts in the top of the bell housing and correct the jacks position to make sure it stays. Now you can get all the upper bolts back in and tighten to proper torque. Reinstall the slave cylinder arm to the clutch fork and push it towards the firewall. If you don't hear a click something isn't right. I had to push a few times to get it. This is the TOB snapping into the PP. Reinstall the drivers side mount. Then reverse the order of dismounting. The only things to note are the following when its going back together.
7. Reinstallation
Make sure to use proper torque and the right bolts. Make sure when you slide the axles back in to have the C clips opening facing DOWN. When reinstalling the brakes use the pads on the side they came off of and clean them with some cleaner because they will be nasty. TORQUE EVERYTHING DOWN CORRECTLY. Make sure to bleed the clutch hydro system. And don't forget to put oil in the transmission.
Start it up in neutral and let it warm up. Be gentle for the first 500 miles.
05-27-2011, 08:17 PM
#5
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I am sure a few things can be deleted. You might be able to wiggle the trans on top of the sub-frame without loosening it, etc. Some of that just made things a little easier.
On you can't skip is that bolt on the clutch fork/slave. Unless you like frustrating the hell out of yourself.
On you can't skip is that bolt on the clutch fork/slave. Unless you like frustrating the hell out of yourself.
01-22-2015, 11:06 AM
#6
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This is a great write-up and the only one I found between this section and the tibs. It will serve well as I do this. The pics would have been awesome for reference to make sure I'm getting the right stuff.