Diy Auto To Manual Swap And Valeo Hyper Racing Clutch Instal

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08-31-2005, 07:27 PM

#11

Loneshark

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thanks man !!!

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04-01-2006, 12:08 PM

#12

dvanderk

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Shadohh @ Dec 10 2004, 12:30 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>You totally went the hard route on the Auto_Manual swap.
There are easier ways to do it.</div>

what easier way is there?

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04-01-2006, 04:58 PM

#13

REDZMAN

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Shaddoh hasn't been here in over a year. I think he's banned from the site too, for being a asshole.

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04-16-2006, 06:55 PM

#14

Loneshark

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haha, yea he was a slug, he never replyed to any of my questions, whatever, i got it done though.

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09-10-2006, 11:25 AM

#15

Rd1tib

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Any way the pics can be up again? my tranny just dropped 1st and 4th. might need it soon. wink1.gif

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09-10-2006, 06:43 PM

#16

Hyundai92Excel

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^^^agreed.

I'm thinkin' of takin' on this project. My transmission fluid is brown and it has 94000 miles on it. It's startin' to shift and has erratic shift points.

02.gif

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10-27-2006, 10:06 AM

#17

REDZMAN

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Okay. I went through and did some "REPLACE" functions with our new "HMAService" copy site and all of the HMA photos are back up. Loneshark's pics are still down though. Loneshark, PLEASE get us these pictures, at least email them to me so we can host them on the new RDTiburon.com photobucket site so they aren't lost again.

Mods, someone make sure to save the pictures that ARE showing above, so we don't lose them if this new site goes down.

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10-28-2006, 10:23 PM

#18

Loneshark

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10-30-2006, 08:55 PM

#19

Alex01tib

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Vehicle: Turbocharged 2001 Hyundai Tiburon

Updated, although i couldnt find a spot to put this one

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/lon...f/th_tranny.jpg

If everything is ok other than that ill go ahead and get rid of lonesharks last post.

Tips for the swap:

1) Two people are really handy, when dropping/installing the tranny, my friend bent over the fender and lifted on the tranny (rope helps) while i manuvered it while laying under the tranny.

2) You dont have to remove the splindles from the A-arm to remove the axles. Simply remove the two bolts that connect the strut assembly from the hub and remove the axles.

3) If your axles dont slide right off like my drivers side didnt, dont just whack it with a sledge hammer (like i did) or youll have to file the damaged threads (like i did). Put the axle nut on 4-5 threads and hit the nut, this way it wont damage the threads.

4) You have to snap the throwout bearing in the pressure plate AFTER you get the tranny fully bolted to the tranny. If the TOB wont snap on and you cant disengage the clutch, you installed it wrong, most likely clutch surface backwards.

5) If you didnt read #4 before you/your dumb friend went ahead and snapped the TOB on the Pressure Plate, get a hold of me, i can get it off in 2 minutes.

6) On this step including THIS PIC Be careful not to lose the bolts down the frame, you can prevent this by pushing on the end of the bolt (opposite side that socket goes over) with a phillips head screwdriver while your friend loosens the bolt.

7) DONT jack up on the oilpan if you dont have a cherrypicker, you can jackup on the metal "flywheel" shield that the bottom three bolts of the bellhousing bolts to, its sturdy.

8) Grease your axles before you put them into the hub (not into the tranny) so they dont rust onto your hub.

9) I found it a ton easier to remove/install the tranny and gives you more arm room if you remove the battery and battery tray all together.

10) If the donor tranny you are using had a cable driven speedo, you can simply unbolt the speed sensor from your auto and put it into the donor tranny.

11) Dont put the gearoil in until your 100% sure the clutch disengages right, you can test this by having one friend hold one drive wheel still, another friend push the clutch pedal with the shifter in neutral, and you try to turn the other drive wheel; if you can spin the wheel and the wheel stops when your friend releases the clutch you installed it right.

Thats all i can think of right now.

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11-03-2006, 08:56 AM

#20

Loneshark

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very good tips !!!!!!!!!!!!!

thanks man

most of your tips are common sense, buti guess for someone who doesnt work on cars wouldnt have a clue.

good job !

found a nice tech bulletin on HMA this morning, check it out
bulletin 03 - 40 - 011

DESCRIPTION:

This bulletin provides a service procedure for the removal and installation of manual transaxles with the "pull" type clutch system.

"Pull" or "push" type clutch systems refer to the direction of operation to disengage the clutch relative to the flywheel. In a "pull" type clutch system, the release bearing is attached to the clutch cover fingers and "pulls" the clutch cover away from the clutch disc (away from the flywheel), disengaging the clutch.

VEHICLES AFFECTED:

All 1996 Model Year and newer vehicles
equipped with manual transaxles except Accents
, which have the "push" type clutch system.

SERVICE PROCEDURE:
Drain the transaxle gear oil.
The reference photo to the right shows the clutch related components as viewed from outside the transaxle case.

Loosen the release lever nut and washer.

Separate the release lever by removing the snap pin and clevis pin.

Separate the release lever from the fork shaft.

Loosen the bolts attached to the release cylinder and separate the release cylinder from the transaxle assembly (no need to open the clutch hydraulic system).

Remove the transaxle assembly after removing each bolt attached to the engine assembly.
Remove the clutch cover assembly. The release bearing is still attached.
To separate the release bearing from the clutch cover, rotate the release bearing to gain access to the bearing snap ring.

Insert the snap ring pliers under the wave washer to release the bearing.
Replace the clutch components as necessary by following the steps in the appropriate Shop Manuals.
NOTE
Do not attach the new release bearing to the clutch cover.

Install the release bearing on the fork as shown.

Attach the clutch cover without the release bearing to the flywheel while the clutch disc is aligned using the clutch disc guide tool (refer to the appropriate Shop Manuals for the clutch disc guide tool part number).
Attach the transaxle assembly to the engine assembly.
NOTE
Make sure not to apply any side loads to the clutch components.

Install the release lever on the release fork shaft by aligning notches (release lever attaches only one way on the shaft).
After completing step 15, pull the release lever to engage the release bearing into the clutch cover fingers. If there is a click sound, the release bearing and the clutch cover are aligned correctly. If the assembly does not click and snap into place, the release bearing and the clutch cover are not aligned correctly. Repeat steps 13, 14 and 15.
NOTE
Do not apply excessive force on the release lever to engage the release bearing.

Reconnect all removed components in the reverse order of removal.
Add the specified amount and type of oil into the filler hole (refer to the applicable Shop Manuals for this information).

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